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Trumpeter USS North Carolina 1/350

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  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Saturday, June 16, 2018 6:33 PM

Capn,

I forgot about the Sunday Ensign. Being an ET3, 2 and 1 on Coast Guard cutters, may main concern were the radars and radio antennas. The QM's took care of the flags and pennants. My job was equally mysterious to them as theirs to me LOL.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Saturday, June 16, 2018 7:03 PM

There could also be a yard brace to each end of the yard. Long wave radio would have a separate receiving and transmitting wire.

Having a halyard "to the top of everything" is extremely useful for sending someone up to fix things like anchor lights that aren't themselves at the top of everything.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    August 2017
Posted by laskdjn on Sunday, June 17, 2018 2:34 PM

This is all fantastic information and I appreciate all of you sharing it with me.  Thank you.

  • Member since
    June 2014
  • From: New Braunfels , Texas
Posted by Tanker - Builder on Monday, June 18, 2018 12:05 PM

Hi;

 As far as marking the waterlines I still use a very old tool I got many years ago . It was and is made for sailing vessels .So it has an adjustable end .You take the end and set it at say 20 degrees . Set the point for the correct waterline at midships .

 As you go to fore and aft keep the line straight .This will even allow you to go under the counter ( stern ) and get a nice form at the stern and the bow . The depth of Boot stripe is set by three things number one being ,  Full wartime load .

  Expended fuel and stores and ammo load and again fuel . If you are light on fuel as in destroyers you are in trouble if too much of the rusty bottom shows in a roll !

  • Member since
    August 2017
Posted by laskdjn on Sunday, July 8, 2018 4:36 PM

So, while doing dinner work on the aft mast this morning, I noticed that I put the top part of the aft superstructure on backwards....so, this one is done and I botched it.

 

I'm pretty sure the mistake is irreparable.  However, I still owe my brother a USS North Carolina.  Plus, I love the ship and it's story, plus my family is from North Carolina, so I'll be attempting this again in the near future.  I learned a lot about model ship building and model building in general on this, hopefully next time I'll do her justice.

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Sunday, July 8, 2018 4:46 PM

Oh no Surprise, there must be a way to repair it.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    August 2017
Posted by laskdjn on Sunday, July 8, 2018 5:27 PM

I'd have to somehow figure out a way to cut the top part of the aft superstructure from the lower part, I glued it -very- securely.  I just don't see a way without doing even more irreparable damage

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Sunday, July 8, 2018 7:47 PM

I'm truly sorry to hear that. That is such a shame when that happens, especially when you've put in so much hard work. Crying

Is there something I should look out for when building mine?

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    June 2014
  • From: New Braunfels , Texas
Posted by Tanker - Builder on Monday, July 9, 2018 6:21 AM

Hi !

This may sound silly as heck . Put the whole thing in the freezer . Let sit for two whole days and try part removal while cold . It may work !

  • Member since
    August 2017
Posted by laskdjn on Monday, July 9, 2018 8:06 AM

I'll give it a shot.  But it's the observation deck/director mounts of the aft superstructure behind funnel #2.  I made sure to provide ample glue to every possible mating surface in that interface.

 

Will the freezer also help with the photo etch that's connecting the two parts with CA? 

  • Member since
    August 2017
Posted by laskdjn on Monday, July 9, 2018 9:03 AM

modelcrazy

 

Is there something I should look out for when building mine?

 

 

In regards to your question, follow the instructions carefully.  There are many parts that can go in backwards without a problem.....and not notice until a month and a half later when you start to put smaller parts on and figure out that something's not right.  I'm not sure which paint scheme you're gonna be shooting for, but my intent(never got to paint it) was to leave the superstructure off the hull of the ship until after paint.  The second deck wood planking can go on way earlier than indicated in the instructions, basically, I'd throw that on right after you put the bulkhead detailing plates on the first deck, this will give you a much better shot at getting a nice seamless joint on that, otherwise I got a lip and it took a lot of work to get rid of that.  Same goes for the bottom section of the hull(unless you're going waterline), I put that on first as was suggested earlier in this thread, and I thought that was a fantastic move.  That also holds true for the superstructure, I think the best bet would be to construct each section(there's 3: fore, mid, and aft) in whole, including the bulkhead detailing, then sand it all smooth at once, I tried to sand after placing each deck and that didn't work out great.  I found that putting on the 1" and 40mm gun shielding on before the sea boxes on helped a lot in locating where they where meant to be located.  With regards to the mooring cleats, Trumpeter provides extras, but don't get complacent, they're tiny and they will zing into parts unknown.  The fit of the main turrets isn't fantastic, so be prepared for some filling and sanding on those.  To get the second deck of 5" guns to sit on the deck properly, you'll need to drill into the main deck sections, that took my cordless drill with a 7/16" bit(I think) no time.  Speaking of the hull, the fit isn't the best on that,  I think the best play on that would be to cut the center supports, glue the bow and the stern first, then individually glue each section at the cross brace(which means you'll have to construct some sort of internal structure for the bottom of the hull, unless you're going waterline).  Lastly, I dunno if you're planning on using photo etch, if you are, God bless you.  I originally got Tom's Modelworks, but found it lacking and wound up just buying the Eduard set.  Speaking of which, there are so many tiny pieces, some no larger than half a grain of rice.

 

That's all I can think of off the top of my head.  If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Monday, July 9, 2018 9:44 AM

Thank you, I'll save this info for reference. I'm excited to start mine as soon as I get a few other projects out of the way.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    February 2016
  • From: Western No. Carolina
Posted by gene1 on Monday, July 9, 2018 4:12 PM

Mike, You did a beautiful job on your No. Carolina. There were 2 ships I never built that I wanted to, the No. Carolina &  the Indiana. My brother & his best friend joined the navy in late 1943 & my brother was on the Indiana & Bill, his friend was on the No. Carolina. They actually got to see each other several times when they were in Ulithi, I believe it was, for supplies & beer.  

  • Member since
    August 2017
Posted by laskdjn on Monday, July 9, 2018 5:31 PM

Another note, M.C., I'd also put more structural support in the hull for the main deck, it was a little flimsy.

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Monday, July 9, 2018 6:52 PM

OK, thanks for that.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

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