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Nantucket Lightship by Lindberg - 1:95 scale build

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  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by steve5 on Wednesday, November 21, 2018 1:58 PM

that's some very nice work fright .

 

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Wednesday, November 21, 2018 1:17 PM

This morning I was able to drill openings into my port and starboard Navigation lights in order to house my 1mm LED lights. I was able to install the green starboard LED into housing by using a little tacky glue with a dab of CA glue to hold light into place. Did a test run to make sure my light would still work. Wallah! 

Also installed my 3mm LED slow flashing light and crossbeam into my forward beacon tower. The three-legged tower top was badly warped, so I now have only two of the legs glued down to circular nest. One to go.

Robert O

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Saturday, November 17, 2018 12:16 PM

gene1 - thanks Gene for sharing the tip from Don Stauffer on using a clear coat to run a seal along the tape line. I used Tamiya's masking tape for curves for my paint lines and Scotch Blue masking tape for the large areas. I had no bleed issues.

As for the Lindberg kit, the two hull parts had a slight difference in shape. A lot of flash and pin marks on most of the parts with this kit. With all of that said, I still am enjoying working on this lightship! 

I have a bottle of Microscale decal film and I have used warm water for my decals on my past build. I'm just starting to connect up the lights and wiring for the beacons and for port and starboard running lights. I'm hoping I can finish this by the end of year.

With that said, I always appreciate your feedback and I wish you and loved ones a warm Thanksgiving for another years!!! Smile

Robert O

  • Member since
    February 2016
  • From: Western No. Carolina
Posted by gene1 on Friday, November 16, 2018 10:13 PM

Robert, A really great build on your Nantucket & beautiful paint work too. I have had to over coat my dullcoat with gloss a lot. On masking, I believe it was Don Stauffer that reminded me to seal the masking tape edge with a color or gloss coat of paint I use Gloss coat & sometimes I put 2 coats on before I paint my final color.. I always did that years ago & forgot it.  It does stop any bleeding of the final color.

   I built the Nantucket when it first came out. I built most all of those old ship kits. On the decals,if they are old, you better put 1 or 2 coats of Microscale decal film for old decals. You can even brush it on. Dip your decal in warm water too when you apply them.

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Friday, November 16, 2018 2:09 PM

GMorrison - now there's another lesson I just learned about pipes and boilers! There are so few decent photos of this ship that I could find to use as a reference for me. It just did not seem right to me to leave it so open. I'm happy with my outcome. Thanks for taking a look and sharing your knowledge about the pipes and boilers. Much appreciated! Have yourself a warm Thanksging!!!

Robert O

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, November 16, 2018 1:20 PM

That is a nice detail. I suppose there should be a pipe per boiler, don't know how many she had but it looks really good.

 

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Friday, November 16, 2018 1:15 PM

I finished working on the smokestack this week. The ship's whistle had snapped off from the smokestack so it needed to be glued back in place. Ladder was added and glued into place. I didn't like the way the smokestack's large opening allowed one to look down to the decking, so I decided to close up that void and add some interest as well. I cut out a small rectangular shape from a piece of styrene sheet and used a hole punch to open up the center. I took a piece of my round styrene tubing and glued it into the hole that I had punched out. I then used a file to round off the edges of the rectangle until it fit into the smokstack. I painted everything flat black and then glued into place inside of the smokestack. I like that it added some detail to an otherwise empty opening! 

Robert O

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Thursday, November 8, 2018 9:46 AM

Finished cutting and gluing all of the railings atop the structures. I added a tiny amount of weathering to the structures by using Testors CreateFX rust and weathering powders from Bragdon Enterprises.

I also did a test run on my two 3mm LED bright lights for my beacons. The picture show both lights on but each one has a slow flash. I will be using 1.8mm warm lights to illuminat the cabins and two Pico sized lights, red and green, for my port and starboard running lights. All of my LED lighting is from Evans Design. Side note: the gentleman at Evans is really helpful and even called me to go over my order! 

Nothing is glued down on the deck at this point. Next step is to complete all of my wiring and install the deck to the hull. Then I will add the rest of the deck fittings and move on to the diorama.

Robert O

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Monday, November 5, 2018 10:12 PM

Steve5 - thanks for taking a look and the kind words! October was really busy at work but I hope I can make some headway before work gets busy again with the holidays.

GMorrison - thanks for your advice and help with the two towers! Cheers!!!

Robert O

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Sunday, October 28, 2018 2:30 PM

This is looking sharp!

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by steve5 on Sunday, October 28, 2018 2:23 PM

your cruising along nicely on this build fright , looking good .

 

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Sunday, October 28, 2018 1:40 PM

Had some time from work to start adding some of the smaller parts to the superstructures. I also started work on my two beacon towers which is made from Evergreen .219" tubing, metal rings, very small strip of balsa wood, and a couple of cut-off parts from solid towers. 

Robert O

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Monday, October 15, 2018 8:04 PM

GMorrison - It finally arrived and I opened up the package to inspect them. I could see where they may begin to warp over time. Thanks for the insight on a possible problem.  I may be able to reinforce part of the inside with something that is solid for better bracing. The wiring that will run inside is 28G and pretty thin. One thing that I like is that the bottom ring on the solid mast fits perfect to the bottom of the tubing. I can drill a hole through it for the wiring. 

I also got some time to paint some of the funnels with the Spar and red paint. Sorry about the blue tint on the photos! 

 

Robert O

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Monday, October 15, 2018 11:39 AM

I'm a little concerned about the styrene tubing. I have a bunch of it, the Evergreen stuff is pretty flexible. Another choice would be brass, which is about as easy to work with and can have stuff glued to it with CA.

Just my two cents worth.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Monday, October 15, 2018 11:17 AM

TankerBuilder - Go for it!!! LOL this was one of my characters at Six Flags Fright Fest. Here's a pic of my wife and I with "BELATRX", our vehicle for we use for those 'special' occassions. 

  

Robert O

  • Member since
    June 2014
  • From: New Braunfels , Texas
Posted by Tanker - Builder on Monday, October 15, 2018 9:05 AM

Yeah ! 

 Dat Scary Day is shortly upon us aint it ? I used to do it up as Dracula's Dad ! I'm Old what do you expect ? I may do Zombie Modeler this time . A Zombie with a model boat ! Weird !

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Saturday, October 13, 2018 1:08 PM

"Children of the night... what music they make". - Dracula 

HaPpY HaLLoWeeN !!!

Robert O

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Thursday, October 4, 2018 11:51 AM

I haven't had a lot of time for any progress due to some home improvement projects and working weekends with Fright Fest as a scare actor !!!  I ordered my Evergreen .219" round tubing and they should arrive by this weekend. Once the styrene rods show up, I can finish working on the wiring that will run inside of the beacon towers and finish all connections thaat will lie inside of the ship's hull.

Robert O

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Tuesday, October 2, 2018 1:03 PM

Bill - thanks for sharing all of this information on this post!

Robert O

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Derry, New Hampshire, USA
Posted by rcboater on Thursday, September 27, 2018 10:23 PM

Red and green sidelights are only used when underway- never while anchored.  using them when anchored would invite a collision, especially with a vessel under 50m.

Rather than scan the applicable page from my copy of the rules, I googled and found this handy study aid:

https://www.google.com/search?q=72+colregs+rules+of+the+road&client=safari&hl=en-us&prmd=isvn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjXg5iP2tzdAhWpnuAKHfdtArAQ_AUIESgB&biw=768&bih=922#imgrc=NX9-Y4pduKl46M:

Regarding anchor lights— the rules require a 360 degree white anchor light for vessels under 50 meters long. Vessels over 50m are required to have two  such lights- one forward and one aft, and the aft one should be lower.   The LV-112 (Nantucket)  was 147’ LOA, so two lights aren’t required. But two lights are optional for shorter vessels, and I’m pretty sure Nantucket has two. One is on top of the jackstaff at the bow, and the other is on top of the flagstaff  at the stern.  (I don’t think the Lindberg includes these?)

I never served on a Lightship, but a Lightship sailor I know said they always had the proper lights and dayshapeMwhen anchored on station.  I sure that was done service-wide -  no CO would risk being found partially at fault for a collision bec his command wasn’t following the rules.

One reason lightships were hit or endured many close calls (esp. in the pre-radar days) was because ships would home in on the Lightship’s radio beacon in the fog, where lights didn’t really matter.

 -Bill

 

Webmaster, Marine Modelers Club of New England

www.marinemodelers.org

 

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Wednesday, September 26, 2018 9:48 AM

CapnMac82 - It is really difficult to find a lot of the technical information regarding lightships. Once again, I'll repeat myself on my feelings about companies that only use a number system for the model parts. The person building the model learns nothing about what parts were on the vessel, nor any nautical terms to educate beginners like myself. It's pretty frustrating!

Because of my lack of knowledge with wiring, circuit boards etc., all of my lights will be working when they are turned on. This is my 5th model, so I'm just trying to give the appearance of what the ship would look like with lights, and not focusing on being historically correct. This is way out of my league. LOL 

I'm going to try and purchase a book about these ships for a referrence on Ebay. I also want to thank everyone for all of their input, feedback and helpful suggestions! Pirate

Robert O

  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: Formerly Bryan, now Arlington, Texas
Posted by CapnMac82 on Monday, September 24, 2018 7:56 PM

rcboater
the red and green running lights would not be on at the same time the masthead beacon is flashing.

Hmmm.  That does not jibe with my understanding of the Rules of the Road for illumination.  At anchor, power vessels are meant to display R&G, a white masthead, and a white stern light (a white range light if over a specific LOA).  Those would be 3/5 mile lights; and not the 15/20 mile beacon, so, they'd only be visible close aboard.

But, maybe lightships have an exemption.  Which would explain why so many were run oer by transatlantic liners.  Maybe.  Perhaps.

Just checking here, especially since CG is the one enforcing light use in the maritime and inland waters.

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Monday, September 24, 2018 4:58 PM

Bill - As a newbie to ship modeling. I still stumble over many of the nautical names of ship parts. I constantly go to Google to look up something. LOL

Now that you brought the white lights on masthead and stern to my attention, I do remember that my father-in-law had them on his 36' Yorktown sailboat when we'd go out to Catalina Island from Long Beach.

I was not aware of the running lights not being used along with the beacon lights, but I can understand the reasoning of that. Once the vessel was anchored and stationary, it only needed the beacons, foghorn or bell to warn ships of it's location.

Thanks again and, I'm always open to someone's input which will help me learn and move forward with modeling. Cheers on this one!!! 

 

 

Robert O

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Derry, New Hampshire, USA
Posted by rcboater on Sunday, September 23, 2018 9:51 PM

I don’t know how much you may already know about the operation of real ships, and lightships in particular. Please tell me to stop if I’m telling you obvious things you already know....

Here’s one: One other thing to keep in mind- the red and green running lights would not be on at the same time the masthead beacon is flashing. When the ship is underway ( a rare occurrence) she would be at darken ship, with only the red and green runnings lights, a white stern light, and a white masthead light on the foremast, and probably a white range light on the main mast.

That is why my RC model has a switch that sends power to either the nav lights ( when sailing about) or to the masthead beacon ( when anchored on station, or on display).

 

Webmaster, Marine Modelers Club of New England

www.marinemodelers.org

 

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Sunday, September 23, 2018 10:36 AM

Bill - I am using Pico size warm light for the interiors. I'm also trying to depict that some cabins were not in use. On those, I have blacked out the portholes by painting the styrene flat black and gluing to the inside of openings. I have used red transparancy film behind the wheelhouse portholes. On the remaining structures, the portholes are either blacked out, or I have used a yellow transparecy film behind them. On the engine room's skylight, the top four portholes will have no film, but the ones on the bulkheads are with yellow film. 

Beacons will be 3mm 'slow flashing' white lights. I'm using 1.8mm red & green led's for my port and starboard running lights. Here's a pic of the wheelhouse with a Pico light inside. NOTE: the top deck and wheelhouse are not glued in place. Just for testing light and any leaks elsewhere from the cabin.

Bill - I want to thank you for all of your help that you have provided and being so kind in sharing your wonderful RC build on this ship! Cheers!!! Pirate

 

Robert O

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Derry, New Hampshire, USA
Posted by rcboater on Sunday, September 23, 2018 9:21 AM

Robert,

Your model  is really coming along nicely- I’m impressed with  what you’ve done so far.

One question: what’s your goal for the interior lighting? Are you looking to show off the extra interior detailing, or going for scale effect?   The reason I ask is that white lights are not used in the pilothouse or any spaces topside that directly access the weatherdecks.  The reason is that white interior lights ruin the watchstanders’ night vision.  The only time white lights are used in those spaces is when a ship is in port, moored to the pier.

The below deck living spaces use white lights until taps (10 pm, usually), then red after that— so you may see either from the portholes in the hull at night. On every CG Cutter I sailed on, we always closed the darken ship covers on the ports at night.  But I never served on a lightship, so I asked a guy who did, and he told me that they rarely closed those covers when on station.

I’m not trying to say you’re doing anything wrong- you should use whatever light color you want to give the effect you want.   I’m just letting you know what the real ones did, in case you (or some other reader) wants to know....

-Bill

Webmaster, Marine Modelers Club of New England

www.marinemodelers.org

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Derry, New Hampshire, USA
Posted by rcboater on Saturday, September 22, 2018 9:21 PM

fright
I'm still working on my game plan on how I will illuminate the beacons. I thought the towers would be in two pieces and I could run the wire up the center, but it turns out they are one-piece solid mold. The wire is pretty thin, and I'm wondering if I can attach it to the towers and then help conceal it underneath the ladder that runs up the tower. But I need to do some more brainstorming.

On my RC conversion, I replaced the solid plastic masts with Evergreen styrene tube the same diameter.  It was easy to run the wires to the beacon that way.  I used the kit part for the ladder.  I had briefly considered brass tube for this, but I didn’t want that extra topside weight on an operating model....

-Bill

Webmaster, Marine Modelers Club of New England

www.marinemodelers.org

 

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Saturday, September 22, 2018 12:31 PM

CapnMac82
 

This is where having a Radio Shack on nearly every street corner was a good thing (even despite what it eventually did to Tandy Corp.)  I remember being able to go and get incredibly fine fire, like in the high 30s AWG. 

Oh, and stuff like resistors, capacitors, switches. No one knows what that stuff is any more.

And don't get me going on Heathkit.

My wife just came in from the dining room.

"I didn't know you had a lightship model. There's one spread out all over the table."

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Saturday, September 22, 2018 12:05 PM

That sounds like a lot of fun. I'm at Monterey Jazz Festival, which is in the next City over from us.

Opening last night with Diana Reeves and Wynton Marsalis.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Saturday, September 22, 2018 12:04 PM

CapnMac82 - I'm currently using 28guage wire for main to battery. The wiring on the Pico sixed lights about the size of a cat's whisker. LOL Mine are already striped and I hope I do not have to do any of that myself. All lighting is from Evan Designs. Thanks for taking a look and your feedback on the masts. Enjoy the weekend! Pirate

Robert O

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