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Nantucket Lightship by Lindberg - 1:95 scale build

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  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Saturday, September 22, 2018 11:54 AM

GMorrison - thanks for taking the time to look at your kit and provide me with me tip on K&S tubing for the beacon towers(masts) ? I'll do some research with them online this weekend. Enjoy the weekend! I'm working mine @ SixFlags Fright Fest as 'Captain John Roberts' - who commands a crew of cutless-dropping, arthiritic squids who happen to be Ship out of Luck!  LOL 

Pirate

Robert O

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Saturday, September 22, 2018 11:43 AM

Tanker-Builder - I used Krylon grey primer on my hull and deck. I then sprayed the deck with Yestors Semi-Gloss Primer. I then sprayed with DullCoat to flaten the sheen. I looked online at a sample color Gray used by the USCG. My gray is not accurate but I think I got close. I thought about going lighter but have decided to keep what I have. I appreciate input and help that I have received. Enjoy your weekend!!!

Robert O

  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: Formerly Bryan, now Arlington, Texas
Posted by CapnMac82 on Friday, September 21, 2018 10:30 PM

GMorrison
You could run an insulated single conductor up the middle, or there might even be room for two. I know I'm chatting from the cheap seats, but this would be way cool.

This is where having a Radio Shack on nearly every street corner was a good thing (even despite what it eventually did to Tandy Corp.)  I remember being able to go and get incredibly fine fire, like in the high 30s AWG.  Mind, you wanted serious maginfication to strip 38awg wire.  And, you had to test the circuits to be sure the wire would carry the current needed.

So, conductor mast with single wire inside is a good answer. 

Another one is to use uninsulated fine copper wire as the stays.

Mind, I used to have rather a large pike of not-finished masts in my junk pile.  Sigh.

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, September 21, 2018 2:42 PM

fright

I'm still working on my game plan on how I will illuminate the beacons. I thought the towers would be in two pieces and I could run the wire up the center, but it turns out they are one-piece solid mold. The wire is pretty thin, and I'm wondering if I can attach it to the towers and then help conceal it underneath the ladder that runs up the tower. But I need to do some more brainstorming Idea

It might be possible to replace some of the plastic detail with brass. Like the ladders. Or even the standing rigging. 

So I broke out my kit and mic'd the mast. It looks tapered, but it measures a constant 0.20". I guess my eye is just telling me what I think I see. K and S makes 12" brass tubing with an OD of 7/32", or 0.218" which works. You could run an insulated single conductor up the middle, or there might even be room for two.

I know I'm chatting from the cheap seats, but this would be way cool.

 

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    June 2014
  • From: New Braunfels , Texas
Posted by Tanker - Builder on Friday, September 21, 2018 2:00 PM

Robert ;

 I was talking to my client the other day . It seems the Haze grey I used , as it aged in the bottle the shades were off . Even after shaking and stirring for about a half an hour !

 So the U.S.S. Kidd Model I am building for him is three different shades in places . He loved the idea ! Go Figure . I have to say .You got your *** going here .That is real nice ! T.B.

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Friday, September 21, 2018 1:27 PM

GMorrison - many thanks! My technique is called a 'lot of touch ups' after noticing those little 'oops'. LOL  I'm pretty happy with how this ship is coming along. Now that I have the frame, I can start working on the light and wiring that will go inside the hull. Once everything is in place, I can install the deck into the hull.

I'm still working on my game plan on how I will illuminate the beacons. I thought the towers would be in two pieces and I could run the wire up the center, but it turns out they are one-piece solid mold. The wire is pretty thin, and I'm wondering if I can attach it to the towers and then help conceal it underneath the ladder that runs up the tower. But I need to do some more brainstorming Idea

 

Robert O

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, September 21, 2018 9:30 AM

Well you did it! Your model looks like a heavy steel object with thick coats of paint (because of Lindberg's soft details). Just like the real thing.

Keep going- your detailing really adds to the project.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Friday, September 21, 2018 8:58 AM

I did a test run with one of my LED lights that I purchased from Evans Designs. It is a Pico size warm LED. I originally going to light only the wheelhouse, but I have ordered a few more lights to illuminate the rest of the cabins, as well as my running lights and beacons. *The top decks and structures are not glued - the tip that I got from GMorrison about blacking out the interiors paid off. Thanks! 

 

Robert O

  • Member since
    September 2013
  • From: San Antonio, Texas
Posted by Marcus McBean on Monday, September 17, 2018 4:33 PM

Robert,

Looking very nice.  Really digging how large those rivets look all a long the superstructure pieces.

Marcus

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Monday, September 17, 2018 12:31 PM

Here are some photos showing my progress on the smokestack 'vent'? and the superstructures that will eventually be lit with 3v led white lights. 

For the 'vent' , I used two pieces of styrene to back the vent and keep it from snapping while I drilled it ope to add a little more realism to it.

On the superstructures, I used a strip of red transparency film for the wheelhouse portholes. On the other portholes, I either bolcked them by gluing a piece of styrene that I painted flat black behind them, or I used yellow film for the others. I'm trying to give the effect that some cabins are being used and others are not.

As far as the hatches go, I'm not sure if all of them were painted a gray or were some of them painted white like the walls of structures. I've looked at a lot of pictures but, again, most are all after 1960 and this model is before that period.

Just when you think it looks good, a camera sure brings out all of the imperfections in one's work. It looks like I'll be going back and doing a bit of touch painting! Arrrrrr!!!!!

Robert O

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Sunday, September 16, 2018 3:03 PM

I worked on my mushroom anchors for the bow of the ship. I noticed that on the actual anchors, there are for small triangular openings spaced evenly around the rim. I used a small diameter drill bit to make my small openings on my anchors. I think I will just go with that instead of trying to create a triangle shape on something that is so small. 

 

Robert O

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Sunday, September 9, 2018 1:16 PM

GMorrison - thanks for this advice. I will do just that. I'd hate to have to mask everything off again and you're certainly right about the size of the decals. Cheers!

Robert O

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Saturday, September 8, 2018 1:36 PM

Robert, you should be able to gloss coat the area where decals go without doing the whole hull. Mask below the highest wale, and the handrail. Coat just that part. If you go to the edges like that, it shouldnt show later.

It does make a huge difference in eliminating "silvering", and this is a BIG decal job.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Saturday, September 8, 2018 1:27 PM

TankerBuilderI want to thank you for all of the pointers and tips you've offered to me along the way and I hope to get this one finished before the end of the year. So far, things have been going smoothly with this kit. When finished, I'll make sure my beacons are bright enough so you don't slice me in half as your tanker ship glides by! Cheers and a good weekend!

Robert O

  • Member since
    June 2014
  • From: New Braunfels , Texas
Posted by Tanker - Builder on Saturday, September 8, 2018 8:56 AM

Oh My Gosh ;

 I love It ! More power to ya ! Now , back to models . Get yer wife Into figures .I think she could help and learn lots . You are doing great on the ship . T.B.    P.S. It's hard to keep a Tanker out of trouble when loaded . 

 We'll try to steer clear . Many have been run over in their history . We don't want yours to be one . My H.O. full scale Tanker is 6.5 feet long .

  For the search-lights I do this  , a disc of Foil Chrome at the back , and then I paint the sides with some decanted Molotow Chrome Pen paint ! I use 1/24 and 1/25 and 1/32 Lucas headlight lenses for them  ! I use Aleen's craft Glue to mount the lenses .

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Saturday, September 8, 2018 8:11 AM
RCBoater - OOPS!!! I had no idea about decals and what is best for adhesion. Rather than repaint, I'll go with your method. Thank you for letting me know about this issue. A big help. Thanks again!!!

Robert O

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Derry, New Hampshire, USA
Posted by rcboater on Friday, September 7, 2018 8:43 PM

You may have gotten ahead of yourself with dullcoating the hull so soon.  Decals like a glossy surface- it prevents “silvering”.  I would have left the hull glossy so I could apply the big “ NANTUCKET“ decals first....

It is an easy recovery, though- you can always apply a gloss coat, then decal, then dull coat again....

  

Webmaster, Marine Modelers Club of New England

www.marinemodelers.org

 

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Friday, September 7, 2018 12:17 PM

Yesterday, I was able to mask off the lower part of hull and sprayed the upper section with a gloss red. This morning I was able to spray the hull with Dullcoat to flatten everything out.

I set the hull aside to dry and went and taped off all around the 'railings' on the superstructures and painted the rails a brass color. Once dried, I will need to paint the fire hose which is attached to the one cabin. I need to look at real photos to see if the hatch doors were painted white or gray or ?

I also decided to drill out the searchlights that will go atop of the wheelhouse. The back side of the two smaller lights had a mold indentation, so I used a dab of Elmers to seal up the holes. I eventually will paint the insides of lights with silver(?) and use some of my wife's clear decoupage and place a drop or two to create a lense. One could almost fit a Pico sized LED into the main search light but I don't think I'll go there. 

Robert O

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Wednesday, September 5, 2018 2:16 PM

My LED lighting arrived. From left to right: (2) wired connectors, (1) AA battery pack with female connector, (1) package of shrink tube, (2) Pico size warm white led's, (1) 1.8mm Red led, (1) 1.8mm green led, (2) 3mm flashing cool white led's. 

Masked off upper and lower portions of hull and painted my boot stripe flat black. I used Tamiya tape for curves for the edging and blue painters tape for the large ares. It came out pretty clean.

Robert O

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Tuesday, September 4, 2018 1:56 PM

Here are two photos after masking off and spraying the anti-fouling red onto the lower portion of hull. I went ahead and drilled two very small holes into the hull, just about midway, for the intake/discharge openings.

After a suggestion was made to 'black out' all superstructures for any light leaks, I painted all of the interiors with a coat of silver paint. Once dried, I went over everything with a flat black paint. Once these have dried, I will repaint the interiors with white and pale green. Again, but better safe than sorry Wink

 

Robert O

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Monday, September 3, 2018 9:27 PM

GMorrison - Thank you for bringing this to my attention! I'll sit down tomorrow and paint the interior walls flat black and then re-paint them a pale green and white. I ran beads of glue along all of the interior seams (both CA and white glue). I'll do a test run in the evening so I can check for any leaking light.

I am planning to place the led in the wheel house section of the compartment and the two lower portholes on the front will be blacked out from the interior. I am planning on gluing a red transparency for the wheel house portholes and I also have placed a thin wall (made from styrene) with a little opening that should allow some light to filter into the 'chart' room cabin. Hopefully, only a small portion of light will shine out through the open hatch. 

I also have two Pico size lights (red & green) to use as my port and starboard lights that will attach to the wheelhouse. That's my game plan anyway! LOL Hmm

Robert O

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Monday, September 3, 2018 12:22 PM

Be sure to really black out the cabin. That includes not only making the walls opaque, but making all of the seams tight and opaque.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Monday, September 3, 2018 10:45 AM

My pretty simplistic approach in breaking up the openess of the cabin. I created a chart table out of pieces of styrene sheet and square and added a chart that I drew on a post-it. I cut a tiny 45 degree shape from thin styrene as my triangle. I had strip of round styrene that I used as my rub rail, so I cut two pieces and painted one black, the other blue, and glued them to the interior wall for piping. I think this is enough to block some of the light that will emit light through the open hatch, yet still give some interest.

Robert O

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Saturday, September 1, 2018 6:13 PM

Commonly there would be a heavy canvas curtain that would be either pulled back, or hanging closed. You could play with that idea too.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Saturday, September 1, 2018 5:11 PM

Here are two photos showing thhe main forward cabin. Only today did I notice that I have an open hatch which shows an empty room. Not good. My lights will arrive Tuesday and I would like to show a littl more interest inside when it is illuminated. So here's my game plan:

1) Create a small wall just inside the ope hatch which would block looking all the way across the cabin. It would still allow light to shine through. My wife made a suggestion about taking a real photo of the inside of the cabin and shrinking it down to glue onto the fake wall.

2) I'm thinking about cutting a small opening just indis and to the right of open hatch and then installing a HO size ladder that would give the appearence of it going down to the lower deck. 

I also need to tone down the green - too bright. It needs to be a very pale mint color green.

Robert O

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Saturday, September 1, 2018 12:11 PM

Yes Bill, great gallery.

And it is really nice to see a ship (model) in her natural element.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Saturday, September 1, 2018 10:21 AM

BILL - What a wonderful job you did on your Nantucket, plus the fact that she is RC and looks amazing in the water!  Your posts of this are some of the best I've looked at on this kit. I also want to thank you for all of your tips and leads into helping me along with my progress. Many thanks kind Sir!!! 

Robert O

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Derry, New Hampshire, USA
Posted by rcboater on Friday, August 31, 2018 1:37 PM

I updated my Nantucket photo gallery-- I put the photos in a more logical order, plus I added titles and captions to all the photos to better document the build.

https://billmichaels.smugmug.com/Bills-Stuff/Modelling/n-fK4qbP/ProjectsBuilds/RC-Boats/Nantucket

  

-Bill

Webmaster, Marine Modelers Club of New England

www.marinemodelers.org

 

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Atlanta Metro, Georgia
Posted by fright on Thursday, August 30, 2018 3:24 PM
GMorrison - he was my favorite character in this movie. I loved his ratty coat! LOL

Robert O

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Thursday, August 30, 2018 1:52 PM

Billy Butcherson!

Creative!

Can I commission an “Allison” figure?

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

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