Three Revell Constitutions on hand to build.

You should consider making the hull thicker, at least on the gun deck. It adds a lot to the model.

Started hull number 3 (now 2) by washing and priming the outer hull. I'll join the hull halves together after prepping it more using ideas from Bob, BM and Jose.

I cut all those little bobbins off that are used for the breeching lines, and began to insert the home made copper eyebolts made before. Thanks to Luvspinball and Bill Morrison for those ideas.

I covered up the pin rail glue areas to keep paint out of them and drilled out the hull for the pin rail supporting wies.

Still breeching guns on the gun deck.

The boss insisted that if I could put so much time into "those toys", at least I could do something for the yard. So thanks to the Connie's, we now have a new fire pit in the back yard.

I have been breeching the guns on the gun deck. I made my own eyelets after finding that the directions said to use the eyebolts aft to start your breeching lines, using the heavy line...that did not fit through those eyebolts.

The homemade ones are better.

Been reading The Neophyte Shipmodeller's Jackstay, and making eyebolts and rings. I am using 24 gauge copper solid wire for the fittings.

I cut the tails on my eyebolts so I can screw them into the hull without protruding on the outter hull, and use the slow set CA for extra safety. I drill a slightly undersize hole and screw them in. I am breeching the gun deck guns now. Put a photo of one of my eyebolts on Fotki.

Here is a question. I have some monofilament laying around. What do you think of using that for spar rigging? I do have Syrene's black and tan in .035, .025, .018 and .012. That is some good stuff!

I got it!

I now have two hulls to do. My daughter in law pleaded with me to give one hull to my son.

Anything to promote family peace!

I kept the 3rd hull. 

Now that is a great piece of information. Thanks! I did that on my n scale RR. Must have forgotten about it on the Constitution. I restore antique lamps and always do that on the lamps. As the better half says, "Duhhhhhh!"

Had to take a break from the guns so working the lower masts right now....and making eyebolts.

Words of wisdom, Bob. Words of wisdom.

Before you glue the hull halves together on the new one, tie a knot in the wiring harness or wires running into the hull, leaving enough slack so that if the wires are ever tugged or pulled, they won't come out. Knot should be inside the hull and large enough so that it can't get out the hole drilled for the wires.  I do this on all my wired builds.  Never know when you will accidentally pull on them.  I also use a plug at the base instead of directly soldering the leads from the model.  Again, the plug will come undone and not all your hard work.

Bob

That's right! Never thought of that! Thanks.

Can you attach a wire to each end of each pedestal? LED system is DC, right? So you can make the pedestals plus/ minus terminals. 

Got it!!!

Started hull #3, # 2 being used for spare parts, while working hull #1. Breeching lines going slow on #1.

#3 hull painted but not joined.

I had planned to light #1with 3w led chips untill my little grand daughter pulled the wiring out from under the hull. Since I drilled through the mounting pedestals to install the wiring into the hull, can not figure how to reinstall the darn wiring. So I will put most effort into the spar deck, and put the lighting into #3. Oh, and now I lock the door to my shop!

Guns are in, pinned and glued to the deck. What a nuisance that was!

Just ordered a copy from Model Expo.

Thanks, that sounds good. 

The wire in the cat 5 seems to be 20 or 24 gauge copper. Would brass be better? Is that good enough for wiring the guns into the gun deck?

I had some cat 5 on hand from wiring the upstairs for pcs. Some was stranded, not good for the Constitution and some was solid wire.

I am going to use wire for the footropes on the spars too.

While doing the eyebolts, I diversified a little for relief, and have assembled the lower three masts and painted them british yellow, same as the gun stripe. The sprit too.

Cross trees later, after the blocks are on them before attaching to the mast.

Thanks, I was wondering what those were.

Thanks, that is one item I may purchase. They have a lot of things for the Constitution. It's looking like about 3-4 more months to finish this one. Doing two now, using what's learned on this one to do the second.

After these two are done I'm going after that 1/200 Titantic! 

Thanks Bill, looking for it now. As a die in the wool landlubber, I'm surprised I even know what port and starboard are!

Thanks. What is the link?

If interested, a Brodie galley stove is available in 1/96 scale.  It may save you some work.

Just click on the link at bottom to see it in the catalog, and more for Revell's Constitution.

Rick, if you don't have it...there's a nice little book called "The Neophyte Shipmodeller's Jackstay"., by Geo. Campbell.  Model Shipways published it and cheap copies are easy to come across.

Campbell can draw like Pavarotti could sing, and it's full of really neat little drawings of all sorts of details. Recommended.

When I want consistency, I wrap a piece of masking tape around the nail, pin or jeweler's pliers a couple of times. Make your loop, slide down to the tape, twist it tight, repeat.  Works a bit better than a line drawn with a marker.  And you can peel off the tape and reuse the nail, pin or pliers.  Just my 2 cents.

Bob

I've been wrapping these little wires around small nails, so there are two tails, then twisting the tails tight with my small needle nose pliers. That gives me a tight eyebolt, and is easier to do. I marked the nails for placing the wire around them with a black magic marker and am getting more consistency that way. Then I add a spot of glue. 

Unlike the smooth shafts you get from commercial eyebolts, like from Model Expo, these twisted shafts seem to hold better in plastic when glued in place.

After I finish mounting the guns on the gun deck, I think I'll try making some "s" fasteners and strops.

Well, I made one eyebolt, then tried to run the breeching line through it...too small. glad I only did one and dry fitted it!

The second one fits. the nice thing is since one size doesn' fit all, they can be custom sized.

The trick is to get them all to be the same siz efor the breech. this will take a little pracice.

I am loading them onto the breeching line as I make them to be sure they fit. I seem to be getting about 60% to fit. I'm sure the other 40% can be used somewhere.

My better half says she can hear me talking to myself, as I make these eyebolts. 

So true.  I'm not a fan of the old whip out the old cc and stock up on AM stuff either.

And I don't much like PE eyebolts. Quite a while back I found a source, I think Jotika, that sold bags of nice ones made out of round copper wire.

Bill, you really learn things from these models. For instance, if you are trying to make your own eyebolts, it's best to relax with a tea instead of a Guiness or two if you expect any degree of success!

Rick Sr

I found a drawing done by a crew mmember of the Constitution around 1815 and he shows the messenger bits as square posts. Since I used sprue, mine will be round.

There are actually two sets on each side.  I assume the second set is for the Spar deck.

Bob

You can see on the images of the Constitution from the museum that the capstan arms were stored overhead between the beams when not in use.  Similarly they stowed hatch covers there as well.  Left mine out on the gun deck.  Very unlikely they would have been left in during battle, as they block flow from one side of the deck to the other.  Really just used to haul heavy stuff, like dropping boats below decks, hauling anchors, etc.

Glad the Cat5 idea worked for you. 

Bob

Using cat5 to make eyebolts. Thanks for that tip. And you can tailor them to what you are using them for. I have chiseled all those little plastic bumps off the starboard side and will be using these eyebolts to breech the guns. If that works out well, I'll do the same for the port side.

I made up the messenger cable bits but will put them in place after the guns are done. I found a drawing done by a crew mmember of the Constitution around 1815 and he shows the messenger bits as square posts. Since I used sprue, mine will be round.

I'll also put the gun deck capstan in after breeching and rigging is done.

When under way, were the capstand posts for turning left in place or stored? How about when in port?