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Revell Cutty Sark bow sprit-jib boom connection?

5 replies
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  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Boston
Revell Cutty Sark bow sprit-jib boom connection?
Posted by Wilbur Wright on Friday, August 3, 2007 12:03 PM

I'm looking at my kit and this connection seems like it will be rather weak.  Its a long piece when assembled and I'm worried that when rigged that it  will bend upwards too easily. Is there any way to strengthen this?  Its too small to drill and insert  aluminum rod for instance.  Will the downward pull of the underside rigging be enough to keep it from bending upwards?



  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: vernon hills illinois
Posted by sumpter250 on Friday, August 3, 2007 1:50 PM
   I would, most probably replace the plastic jibboom with wood. I have done this in the past, and it seems to be the best way for me. In other threads here, the use of brass rod is also a way to provide stronger spars, and prevent deformation caused by rigging tension.

Lead me not into temptation ..................I can find it myself

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Boston
Posted by Wilbur Wright on Saturday, August 4, 2007 1:58 PM

Thanks for the response , however I'm afraid that the thinness of this scale piece sanded down from a dowel would not be much better than the kit piece.

A lot of people have built this Revell kit.

Has no one out there had this problem?


  • Member since
    June 2007
  • From: Albuquerque, NM, USA
Posted by styrenegyrene on Sunday, August 5, 2007 12:46 AM

I built the 1/96th Cutty in about '60 or '61, and the jibboom broke where it connects to the bowsprit.  I didn't have any little bitty drills, so I cut straight pin to about 1/2" long.  I used a candle to get it red-hot, and shoved it into the head of the bowsprit.  Then I repeated the process for the buttend of the jibboom.  The two pieces never did match up perfectly, but I won a blue ribbon at the NM state fair with it, and it sat around my folks' house for 35 years.  Mom finally threw it away without asking me if I wanted it.  That joint never did fail as far as I know.

If I were doing the same operation today, I'd probably rebate the butt of the jibboom and drill the head of the bowsprit to take maybe .030 or .040 of the rebated portion.  That would only be a few scale inches.

As far as using wood, I've turned some hickory dowell down to .022 (measured by a pretty fair caliper) and it's a heck of a lot stronger than an equal bit of plastic.

Turning styrene into fantasies for 50 years!
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Lacombe, LA.
Posted by Big Jake on Sunday, August 5, 2007 7:03 PM

I've built about 24 of these and never had a problem.  You talking about the 1/96th scale right.  Even the small18" version, I've never had a problem with.  Take a look at my Cutty Sark Album for some close ups of that area.




  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Boston
Posted by Wilbur Wright on Sunday, August 5, 2007 7:49 PM
Thanks Big Jake,  I have referenced your photos before, and will again during this build.  I have drilled out the bow sprit to take a 1/8th inch aluminum rod, all the way in (about 3 inches). I will place a slightly larger aluminum tube over it and out the remaining inches for the jib boom. I will file it down and then add the styrene end of the kit jib boom with CA, getting it looking good.  It will not bend at all this way. The kit provided part is a very weak joint, at least in this kit I have.

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