SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

Which sculpting medium? (for making waves)

4173 views
5 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: St. Petersburg, FL
Which sculpting medium? (for making waves)
Posted by sawdeanz on Tuesday, January 22, 2008 2:50 PM
I've been looking around at various techniques for creating ocean bases for ships. I like the idea of using some kind of sculpting material to make the waves and such, and to use gel medium for the smaller waves. I've also heard of using textured watercolor paper for smaller scales. What are your favorite sculpting mediums? I've seen articles for celluclay, but also heard it shrinks a lot. I've read about using sculpty, but you have to bake it. I'm looking for a cheap alternative that won't shrink very much. Thanks in advance.


---Sawyer

  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: NYC
Posted by kp80 on Wednesday, January 23, 2008 12:24 PM

I'm new to making water bases and have experimented with a few techniques that I have learned from.  My first attempt at a water base used a technique featured in the Nov. 2004 FSM, which calls for using a crumpled piece of aluminum foil to form a surface of waves, painted blue, then coated with Mod Podge decopage glue/sealer (sort of a watered-down white glue) that dries clear and shiny.  While not the best results I've seen, it worked okay and gave me something to build on.  The photos of this technique from the FSM article looked pretty good and inspired me to give it a try.  It was certainly fast and cheap, and there was no shrinkage to contend with!  Here's a few shots of my results.  The first photo is from an HO scale industrial model that that features a barge dock.  The second and third photos are a 1/350 scale WWII era C2 stores ship.

The ship base was modeled to be a relatively calm sea state, with the ship having little to no headway.  I saved that for the next technique --  acrylic gel medium --  after reading many articles, scouring this forum and others, and looking at the photos of many displays.  I like the results of the acrylic gel medium, but it definitely took me more time and a bit more experimenting.  I just finished a display base with it, but have not taken any photos yet.  I am very pleased with the results, but again I learned a few lessons here and there, and will definitely apply those to the next project.  The gel medium did not shrink on me at all, although I did notice that the wave peaks seemed to tighten, or crease more sharply, as they dried.  Actually, I just had the idea that once I sculpt something in acrylic gel, I should take a heavy piece of aluminum foil and make an impression of it for a future project, then perhaps go back to the foil technique!  Don't know how well it will work, but figure it's worth a try.  I have not tried any of the clays, plaster, etc., but may progress to that at some point.  I applied the gel medium by first painting a base with three different shades of blue.  I gave it a coat of an azure blue, followed by two shades of progressively darker blues, applied with a dabbing sponge, with the lighter shades peeking out of the darker ones.  I then applied the gel medium over the painted base, sculpting waves as I went along to represent a relatively calm sea state.  After planting the ship on the base, I then proceeded to form the ships wake patterns about the hull, using a photo of the real ship underway for reference.  I did not paint the surface of the gel as some do, but left it unpainted.  I like the translucence of leaving it clear, although I thought of using a little blue food coloring mixed in.  After it dried, I went back and dabbed the top with gel using a stiff brush to break up the reflectance a bit and put it more in scale with the 1/700 ship.

By far the best water base display I've seen is MFSOB's SS John Randolph -- just a superb job.  He's on this forum, you may want to ask him for a pic, it's awesome.  I hope I can get that good!

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: NJ
Posted by JMart on Wednesday, January 23, 2008 7:40 PM

 

 

  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: NYC
Posted by kp80 on Thursday, January 24, 2008 6:23 AM

JMart,

Thanks for providing the links.  I did not know of this site, and as always, good to see what others are doing and HOW they do it.

  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: CT
Posted by Seamac on Sunday, January 27, 2008 11:40 AM

Hello,

 

Just a thought - how about making a molding?  First you need a box about 1 1/2" larger all around than the finished molding (firm bottom, sides at least 1/2" higher than the finished "sea" tops) then, working inside the box, make a frame from 1/2"w or 3/4"w X 1"h sticks to the outside dimension of the finished molding . Using any kind of modeling clay (or play-do), sculpture your "sea" inside by filling the frame area with the clay and modeling the sea on top.  Remove the sticks, the purpose of which was to give the molding square edges that will drop into your display case and enough thickness to be handled, which will leave the sculpture inside the box with an open area all around.  Using plaster (molding or even Plaster of Paris, but some kind of a "soft" plaster), pour over the entire sculpture and let it fully cure. Then, remove by carving out (use wooden or rubber tools here, don't want to scratch the plaster) all the clay. Instead of plaster you could have used a rubber compound, but plaster is less expensive.  Once every last scrap of modeling clay has been removed, coat the inside of the plaster casting with a thin coat of vegetable oil (used as a release agent), then pour a hard plaster such as hydrocal (sp?) into the cavity.  You should put gauze or wire netting into the loose plaster to strengthen it.  Once that has set up, chip away the softer plaster, wash off any remaining residue of oil, touch up any details that chip and paint.  This method allows you to get the waves exactly as you want them an not worry about what your using in sculpting them to "set-up" before you finish.  The advantage to using rubber instead of the soft plaster would be that the very thin edges or "curls" a the top of waves would be less likely to chip when removing the mold as the rubber is more flexible.  A combination could also be used where you coat the finished sculpture with rubber, coat that with vegetable oil, then pour plaster over the rubber - essentially making the rubber the first layer of the molding.  As before you can then remove the modeling clay - "play-do" might be better here as you can wash the little remaining bits out with water without affecting the rubber.  After coating the inside of the rubber with a release agent, pour your hard plaster and, after it sets, remove the soft plaster from the rubber then peal the rubber off the finished "sea".  For a larger display an all rubber molding can be very expensive but in a smaller model cost wouldn't be as much as a factor.

 

I hope that I've explained this clear enough to get the idea.

 

Have Fun!

Seamac

 

Seamac

Seamac
  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: West Virginia, USA
Posted by mfsob on Wednesday, January 30, 2008 2:10 PM

Yeesh, kp80 ... but thanks for the kind words! I think the key considerations for what medium you use for the water are two: What scale are you looking at, and What kind of wave effects do you want?

I build ships in 1/700 scale. Using acrylic gel medium, my first and so far only attemptat modeling water, a Liberty ship in the storm-tossed North Atlantic, turned out fairly well. Although the gel tends to flatten out if left alone, you can build up waves and rollers with successive thin layers of the gel until you get the effect you want, and use a wet, heavy-bristle brush to sculpt it into a more realistic look. I like the acrylic gel because it cleans up with water, doesn't seem to generate any heat while setting up, is fairly forgiving when it comes to fixing mistakes and isn't hideously expensive. PM me if you want more details. 

 

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.