Rust

I have a jar of rust color MMP Powder that is very good but I guess that any rust color pigment will work as well. I combine the pigment with paints and oil washes.

There used to be a product called Jeweler's Rouge, which was iron oxide (rust) ground very thin.  It could used as a powder to simulate rust, or as a pigment to make a rust colored paint.  It was used for fine polish on brass and things.  Haven't seen it in hardware stores for ages, but a Google search could probably find it.

Don Stauffer

There used to be a product called Jeweler's Rouge, which was iron oxide (rust) ground very thin.  It could used as a powder to simulate rust, or as a pigment to make a rust colored paint.  It was used for fine polish on brass and things.  Haven't seen it in hardware stores for ages, but a Google search could probably find it.

 

 

modelmaker66

 

 

Don Stauffer

There used to be a product called Jeweler's Rouge, which was iron oxide (rust) ground very thin.  It could used as a powder to simulate rust, or as a pigment to make a rust colored paint.  It was used for fine polish on brass and things.  Haven't seen it in hardware stores for ages, but a Google search could probably find it.

 

 

 

 

 

That's a great idea! Thanks for the post. You really have a vast knowledge and experience, I'm always picking up stuff from your posts!

 

 

Thanks!  Comes with age.  I'm 81, modeling continuously since I was 7.  Even modeled during college and afterwards in AF.  Was nice when we bought our first house- then I could build a real, permanent workshop.  That was in 1968.

Years back we designed a big exterior installation of stainless steel wall panels on a building (Salk Institute) about a mile from the Pacific Ocean.

The spec. was for marine grade SST with a bead blast finish. After about 6 months, big rusted areas started to show on the panels.

It took a lot of research, but eventually the culprit was discovered. The steel alloy was right, the blast was done correctly, except the glass bead media used had been recycled from a previous application and it contained steel particles.

I tend to use weathering powders.

Jay try using rust Testors enamel in the small bottle and while still wet sprinkle rust pigments for the textured look. Fine tune with dry brushing darker or lighter rust paint shades.

For a textured look on exhausts,I stipple some Mr Surfacer 500 on them

Thanks Ernie, I'll definately try that.

I have homemade rust powder, but it's not made with vinegar.  I use steel wool scouring pads in the kitchen.  When they've lost their soap and start to rust, I stick 'em in a plastic cup with water, and just let them rust away naturally.  It takes longer than using vinegar, apparently, but I'm in no hurry.

I let the water evaporate naturally.  When the cup is dry, I can shake a batch of rust power out of it, and then add water again to rust away whatever is left.

I also have some other real rust, which one of the guys in my club brought it.  He worked in a machine shop, and after cleaning some milling machine or another, he collected a large coffee can full of powdered rust.  He brought it to one of our meetings, along with a box of plastic film canisters.  He told us to fill as many canisters as we liked.