SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

Doubling Down!!

731 views
4 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    November 2018
Posted by oldermodelguy on Thursday, July 7, 2022 5:28 AM

Tanker-Builder

Oldermodelguy!

     Hey ! You must be as ancient as I am! The Tug from back then more than likely was the Gorgeous little REVELL "Harbor Tug"(Long Beach.) The River Tug was more than likely the Lindberg or Lifelike Version. This model was a paddleWheel Towboat. It could be had motorized or static. For a while they gave you the parts to build the Motor, Except they no longer gave you the wire to wind the Commutator. I managed to build every Motor they ever included that way. It was something My Grandpa helped with.

     He did T.V.and Radio Repair!(You know, back when they had those fascinating things called Tubes in them?) Believe it or not, If you followed the instructions to the LETTER they worked well, not as powerful as the pre-assembled motors, but acceptable for Model Boats(Toys) in a Pool or Bathtub! Please don't ask why they were called "TowBoats" I never saw one "Tow" anything! They were always pushing it or alongside it!

 

I went on a tug once, noisy bugger down inside. I was docked down here at the canal as at that time we had huge tankers coming in to fuel the power plant down here and the tugs would show up overnight sometimes .Anyway, in going down to the engine room everything is steel. You have the big diesel that runs the electric drive to the props but then you have these two GM 6V either 53's or 71's diesels that generate the on board stuff, rigging, lights etc. And if you've ever been around the GM 2 stroke diesels of that iteration you know they scream at you. You couldn't hear yourself think down there in the aft section as those two v6 diesels were all the way aft. This was a pretty big tug but nothing compare to what we see pushing the sea going ship sized barges today. Barges have pretty much taken over shipping in these parts . And the tugs are dual powered no clue how many thousands of HP.

That power plant changed to natural gas so the deep port dock just sort of sits there these days. Thats just in the last 10 years. These big tugs and over seas barges pass through the canal in plave of the 400 and 500 ft frieghters and tankers we used to see 25 years ago or more.

Anyway that experience changed my view of tug life having gone down into the bowels of what really is a small ship. A tug is all business space down there. But I  still like tugs to this day from small harbor boats to huge sea going monsters.

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Tuesday, July 5, 2022 2:33 PM

Oldermodelguy!

     Hey ! You must be as ancient as I am! The Tug from back then more than likely was the Gorgeous little REVELL "Harbor Tug"(Long Beach.) The River Tug was more than likely the Lindberg or Lifelike Version. This model was a paddleWheel Towboat. It could be had motorized or static. For a while they gave you the parts to build the Motor, Except they no longer gave you the wire to wind the Commutator. I managed to build every Motor they ever included that way. It was something My Grandpa helped with.

     He did T.V.and Radio Repair!(You know, back when they had those fascinating things called Tubes in them?) Believe it or not, If you followed the instructions to the LETTER they worked well, not as powerful as the pre-assembled motors, but acceptable for Model Boats(Toys) in a Pool or Bathtub! Please don't ask why they were called "TowBoats" I never saw one "Tow" anything! They were always pushing it or alongside it!

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Tuesday, July 5, 2022 1:20 PM

Yes, but...

 

Doublers only work when both pieces are the same thickness.

Be sure to check on that first.

 

Bill

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    November 2018
Posted by oldermodelguy on Tuesday, July 5, 2022 11:01 AM

The last tug I built is when I was a kid, maybe 1962ish. Now my memory has faded just a bit lol but I don't recall anything popping apart. I don't even know what the kit was except it was plastic and maybe 11"-12" or 13" long. I always kind of liked that boat, no clue what ever happened to it. I vaguely seem to think it was a NY harbor boat or some such thing. I know it had a pile of ropes over the bow for pushing. I did a river boat too, actually I think that came first because I don't recall spray paint involved where I do with the tug. Spray paint for me started at around 11-12 yo, so 1961-62. Airbrushing in the early 70's.

Don't recall any doublers but who know if later in life these boats all fell apart, I did use some in balsa aircraft though. But I think those hulls were just two halves.  And scratch built railroad cars as well I did some gussets and doublers on. They have there place for sure ! I'm thinking I did some back support too on cars where putty was involved.  Thanks for the reminder and heads up.

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Doubling Down!!
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Monday, July 4, 2022 2:52 PM

Hello !

       I have been working on something this afternoon that I thought I would share. All of you, I am sure, are familiar with "H.O." scale(1/87). Well, there is a company( Walthers) that does Scenic and Machinery stuff for that scale and "N" Scale(1/160). So far they haven't done these in "N". They are the Tugboat (RailRoad Tug), Car Barge and Port Apron (Loading and, Unloading location).Well, I am working on the Tugs for my Great lakes Freighter Client. Thought I would share something that I Pure Dee forgot on the Charles De-gaulle A/C Carrier.!

       When you put models together, including Planes, Armor, and Ships, there comes a time when you have to Double Down." Double Down?" Yup! You need to put doublers inside or behind seams. Why? Well, in a perfect world the Alignment Slots, Pins, and Ledges would have you think that's going to be enough! NOPE! In putting the hulls(4 Pieces) of these waterline puppies together I discovered that over the years they have gotten slack! And the Deckhouse/Wheelhouse area has really suffered.

        The alignment pins no longer hold the parts together without sag! So, Here's what I have had to do. Number one. Glue the butt ends together using an old method.Thicker liquid glue on both edges, Let set for a minute, then put together. This allows some of the glue melted plastic to ooze out. That's okay in this scenario! The joints need to be seen a wee bit in the shadows. After all they represent sheets of steel welded together! So minimal sanding here. Oho! there is a BUT coming as well. This goes to Number two!

         When you've done this to whatever kind of Butt joint then you SHOULD use Doublers behind the joint. This can be flattened Sprue or Evergreen Strips that will overlap enough to give these Butt Joint Seams strength! Otherwise, when you glue them in place on the deck in this instance, the new glue will weaken the joint and mess you up. With the doublers that ain't gonna Happen! I had this happen on a Vac-U-Form plane kit and boy, did that teach me a lesson! Now, I double Down on everything except maybe Cars! I recommend this on all models.They won't be seen but your model will be stronger for it and handling damage will be kept out of Structural failure Mode!  Happy Modeling!!  This is a P.S enabled by G. Morrison! You must be sure both sides are the same thickness for sure.Therein lies the trick. A thin piece of material to bring the thin side to the proper thickness, or two.Then the Doubler! 

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.