Parafilm

Future your model, apply your decals, then apply your flat finish.

As for Parafilm, I only use it for fuselage bands, cowl bands etc.
I mask my canopies with BMF, and get a perfect frame everytime.

Everything has it's place in our hobby. Just depends on how each person wants to use it.

QUOTE: Originally posted by uilleann The best part about parafilm M is that it doesn't leave even a hint of residue behind, and it won't pull up previous layers of paint. For my own part, I still have yet to delve into the world of using future on everything I do. Since most of my models require a pretty hefty flat finish anyway, the whole future thing seems to be fairly counter productive to me.

So how do you get decals to stick without extreme silvering on a flat finish?

My mom teaches chemistry at a college so I can get as much of the stuff as I want. I wonder if it's any good... I've been happy using blu tack putty and masking tape.

Good idea!

One thing to note about Parafilm - use a couple of layers and let the paint cure for a good long time for the best results.

Sometimes when you stretch it, you may get some areas stretched too thin. When you apply it to a clear part, the resulting "perforations" may not be readily visible. This will allow your paint to get through to the part and can cause some serious problems. If you apply two (or even three) layers, smoothing each down individually and trimming it all at once, you will safegaurd against accidently ruining your clear parts.

Additionally, it will be easier to remove when the paint is completely dried. As with other masking techniques, you should score the edge of the mask before attempting to remove it in order to get a clean, sharp edge. A simple tool to remove Parafilm (without scratching the clear part ) can be fashioned from a piece of sprue sharpened to a chisel point.

working on it

YOU CAN ALSO GET IT AT MICRO MARK
http://www.micromark.com

Woodbeck - I also have problems with certain types of cuts and trims. Patience
and persistance will usually pay off to.

QUOTE: Originally posted by I-beam I've used parafilm in school, but where do ordinary civilians get the stuff??

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=80806

here is where I got mine. If you can find it locally, you could probably get a slightly lower price, but if not this is a great option.
Leon

i picked a roll of it up at the LHS for $8 bucks!! i haven't actually used it yet, i've only experimented with it. later.

I've used parafilm in school, but where do ordinary civilians get the stuff??

cool thanks

I think it will likely depend on the surface and the cut itself. Waiting a few minutes after stretching it should certainly ease the process though. And it's true that the fil works the very best on gloss or semi-gloss flat surfaces - but it is so flexible that using it on compound curves etc. should present little difficulty.

Try the stretch thing and then the wait thing. Sometimes, I've let it sit for 10-20 minutes before coming back to it to apply it to the model itself. But usually anything from 3-5 seems to work well for me.

I do have one problem. I have a hard time getting it to cut at sharp angles, it tends to pull up on the second cut. What do i need to do. Admittly I dont wait a few minutes after stretching it, will that do the trick?

The best part about parafilm M is that it doesn't leave even a hint of residue behind, and it won't pull up previous layers of paint. For my own part, I still have yet to delve into the world of using future on everything I do. Since most of my models require a pretty hefty flat finish anyway, the whole future thing seems to be fairly counter productive to me.

Parafil will stick to just about anything, but you do have to stretch it pretty far, and then you should let it sit for several minutes before applying it to the modeling surface. the other benefit of the film over tape, is that you can get it to follow complex/compound curves with ease - like covering an entire canopy with a single piece, instead of having to cut strip after tiny strip of tape.

Usually with just a bit of pressure and the slightest amount of heat from my finger, I've gotten it to do exactly what I needed it to. It's what I've used to mask off wheel hubs for years now.

I guess people cannot get the hang of using the Parafilm. My roll of masking tape is put away- getting old and dusty. I cut a strip of Parafilm, take off the backing, pull the film to about 4 times its length and simply place it in position at any angle I want. If I need to adjust I use a wet toothpick to move the film into place. I'll never use masking tape anymore. I find using the film is much easier than using masking tape.

Yeah I'll take it.

.....not really sure where i first saw it advertised (mighta been FSM) but, regardless, i made my purchase based on that ad..........the industrial sized roll.....a life time supply.......what a consumer.......duh.
figured i'd better learn how to use it.........
after i learned it was used to seal beakers and test tubes....i thot i'd try it out on a piece of glass........cut a small strip off.........allow my hand heat to "soften" the material and then started stretching it from as many angles as i could up until it seemed it would tear............ (& that it does easily)
having gotten to that point i applied it to the glass and allowed to try to reconstitute (seek it's original shape) and voila.........adhesion to the glass.........
i then smoothed it against the glass except where i'd held it and with a new #10 blade gently cut the desired pattern.........
it seems the "shrinking" action is its grip......so, a glossy surface is the trick......and..........being rather gentle ( as all modellers inevitably are).......
the only hitch in the git-a-long for me was that if your do'in camo and there's 3 or 4 colours......prior to each application of parafilm it would need to be gloss coated for the film to adhere well to.........
too much labour.......i've since found an easier solution.......
anyone want my industrial roll ???????????/

I tried parafilm also but alas I couldn't get it to stick. (I know loose nut behind the wheel on that one).
Now I use Foto Frisket. Looks just like parafilm and acts just like parafilm. Except it already has a low tack adhesive on one side. All you have to do is peel off the paper backing and stick it on the area

Paul

I'm glad to see someone else likes to use Parafilm for masking. If you need to mask the film in a tight corner of a model you can use a wet toothpick and prod the film into the right shape. I like to use the film because it sticks to itself.

I like parafilm and have used it successfully for years. A glossy surface is the best surface
and I use my finger heat around the edges to make it stick better. It is best used on canopies - as a soft mask is usually better for camoflage (paper and blue tack)

Parafilm is deliberately very temperature sensitive, so don't use it where its too cool, because it gets hard and brittle, and the more you kneed it with your fingers, the softer it gets from body heat. But I've never had much luck making it stick. I've relied on bending it around curves and corners, as well as plain old gravity.

i figured it out. coat whatever with future then stretch the parafilm, and apply it to whatever (the canopy of my 109 thats my test subject) and lightly press with your finger. This stuff cuts EASILY so hardly any knife pressure is needed.

Be very careful when stretching the parafilm as its delicate.

I've had the same experience as yours. I know some use it with success, but I gave up on it a long time ago.

It doesn't really get tacky or stick tight, but it should stay in place if you press it down. It works best on a gloss surface like a Future coated canopy. What are you putting it on?