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A (not so good) Way for relistic rust

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 20, 2004 4:26 PM
I have used poly scale rust. its great for making iron laden mud.... It works better if you got like a (nice to mix in red, and a nice a "caboose color orange" to also mix in)it makes it bright...

Real Rust.... Real Rust, where have i heard that name before??? Black Eye [B)] Ohh yeh in Scale Model Railroading...... Polly Scale again... Black Eye [B)]

Big Smile [:D]Big Smile [:D]Big Smile [:D]
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 20, 2004 3:53 PM
The finer the rust powder, the better it works. Good tip on the "tumbler" method.

If you want to really know how to produce rust weathering talk to a model railroader. They generally know a hundred different ways to produce rust weathering in every concievable "shade" of rust out there. Brand new rust (bright orange) is alot different than old rust (burnt sienna).

Check out my own real rust article

Fe2O3 never sleeps!
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Maine,USA
Posted by dubix88 on Friday, August 20, 2004 3:08 PM
HEY,
Ty for agreeing, and i think polly-scale did make something, but i dont know.

Randy
THATS MY VOTE "If a woman has to choose between catching a fly ball and saving infant's life, she will choose to save the infant's life without even considering if there is a man on base." -Dave Barry In the words of the great Larry the Cable Guy, "GIT-R-DONE!!!"
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 20, 2004 12:07 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by dubix88

HEY,
Taht reminds me, ive heard of just taking like a rust colored paint and adding just a bit of talcum powder or something like it. Not sure if it actually works, but im planning on trying it sometime soon.

Randy

......i agree with dubix but, on a artist's little pallet where it'd be easier to control the mix of talcum : paint.........
didn't Polly-S & another mfg. produced grime, mud, rust, oily.......etc ?
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 20, 2004 11:37 AM
This is real rust. If you screw up, you can just wash it away.

for the motor part, attempt to build a stand with something (sheetmetal, lego's, etc) and then use a rubber band or something to connect the canister to the drive shaft of the motor.
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Maine,USA
Posted by dubix88 on Friday, August 20, 2004 11:17 AM
HEY,
Taht reminds me, ive heard of just taking like a rust colored paint and adding just a bit of talcum powder or something like it. Not sure if it actually works, but im planning on trying it sometime soon.

Randy
THATS MY VOTE "If a woman has to choose between catching a fly ball and saving infant's life, she will choose to save the infant's life without even considering if there is a man on base." -Dave Barry In the words of the great Larry the Cable Guy, "GIT-R-DONE!!!"
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: A Spartan in the Wolverine State
Posted by rjkplasticmod on Friday, August 20, 2004 10:32 AM
Or, you could use a product like Rust-All & avoid the mess & adhesion issues.

Regards, Rick
RICK At My Age, I've Seen It All, Done It All, But I Don't Remember It All...
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 20, 2004 7:55 AM
i think he's going the rock tumbler kinda thing!!!
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Maine,USA
Posted by dubix88 on Friday, August 20, 2004 6:13 AM
HEY,
Im confused about the motor part, you lost me there. But does sound like a good way to get realistic rust.

Randy
THATS MY VOTE "If a woman has to choose between catching a fly ball and saving infant's life, she will choose to save the infant's life without even considering if there is a man on base." -Dave Barry In the words of the great Larry the Cable Guy, "GIT-R-DONE!!!"
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 20, 2004 5:04 AM
why not just soak Steel Wool?????
  • Member since
    November 2005
A (not so good) Way for relistic rust
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 19, 2004 11:04 PM
this method takes a long time, but works incredibly well... in small quantities

Find an old mouse (comp mouse, not the annoying furry things) and take out the ball. Cut the rubber "sleve" and you are left with a steel "ball bearing." Soak it in water for about 2-3 weeks, it will rust. then toss into a film can or other similar container. Get an old motor and somehow get it belt-driven. plug in moter. wait about an hour, you will get some EXTEMELY fine rust powder. rub where necisary. realistic because it's real rust. Have fun and don't use it if you have a cut in your finger.
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