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1/48 Accurate Miniatures SBD-3 Dauntless (FINISHED)...

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  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
1/48 Accurate Miniatures SBD-3 Dauntless (FINISHED)...
Posted by lawdog114 on Friday, June 20, 2014 10:45 PM

The 1/48 Revellogram Spitfire MK II was the first kit I built when I got back into this hobby.  It was painted with a borrowed Badger 250 single action airbrush and a propellant can.  The second build was the now defunct Accurate Miniatures SBD-1 which came in a plain cardboard box that I pilfered from my buddy's kit stash.  Not to bash Revell, but I couldn't believe the difference in mold technology between the two.  I believe it was the first cockpit I ever "washed" too, but I couldn't tell you how I did it. These kits, and a few others, served as stepping stones to the modeling I'm still doing almost 12 years later.   I'm by no means Master Class and still consider myself an average modeler at best, but I think I've picked up a few tricks along the way. 

Anyways, now that I'm done reminiscing, I figured I would have another crack at the Accurate Miniatures Dauntless, this time the SBD-3.  I've had the "Battle of Midway" Dash 3 which I got off Ebay in my stash for a few years now.  The kit was gotten cheap because someone started painting it, but the seller did include a nice Eduard PE interior set which was a nice surprise.

  

Accurate Miniatures was second to none when it came to researching their subjects.  This one is no exception.  Its an absolute shame they closed up shop.   This particular kit comes with markings for all VB-3 Dauntless bombers from the Carrier Yorktown during the Battle of Midway.  I figure I'll do this plane right here (below), piloted by Paul "Lefty" Holmberg.  On June 4th of 1942, Holmberg delivered the first blow on the Japanese fleet by being the first to drop a bomb on the "Soryu".  Its time I pay homage to those brave men who would avenge Pearl Harbor and turn the tide in the Pacific war for good. 

 

I was asked on my last WIP if I would outline exactly how I do my cockpits.  I'm going to give it a shot. I'll go step-by-step with photography when appropriate.  I'll start with my paint palette, XF-1 Flat Black and my bottle of 91% Isoprohyl Alcohol.  I keep it this bottle because its easy to dispense.  I thin Tamiya Paints with this alcohol.  They spray beautifully and dry fast.  The old Testors paint brush is my paint mixer.  I keep several on hand for this purpose. 

The cockpit parts are all removed from the sprues attached to a clothespin by Blu Tac.  I then spray everything XF-1 Flat Black.  The color will later serve as a shadow for the actual interior color. 

  

I then mix up the interior color.  In this case, Gunze Aqueous Interior Green.  I think this is the best US Interior Green out there.  I thin my Gunze paints with Tamiya X-20. 

  

Then I just start shading in the color.   The black undercoat leaves the crevices nice and dark. 

Here everything is painted interior green and ready for detail painting.  We can also see the difference between the black shading technique as opposed to just painting the bare plastic interior green.  The previous owner of the kit painted every interior surface light green which is readily apparent on rear interior fuselage.   On a sidenote, the interior detail is outstanding and I see no need for aftermarket here.  Did I mention its a shame Accurate Miniatures closed up shop? 

Its detail painting time.  I put a bit of XF-69 Nato Black in the palette "dimple" then some 91 Iso in another dimple.  The paint, cut with a touch of the Alcohol, makes brush painting with Tamiya a breeze.  Brush strokes are minimum because capillary action moves the paint along the piece. 

We now need some other colors to add interest.  I like to paint map pouches and such in XF-64 Red Brown to add interest and draw the eye.  The same technique is used. If you mess up, don't worry, we'll fix that later with the wash. 

We need silver boxes too.  Here I randomly use Floquil Bright Sliver which does not need thinned.

I'm going to stop here for now.  On the next "installment" (Lol...) I will describe my drybrushing techniques, PE installation, then the wash. Believe it or not, after a few more steps it will be done. 

Joe 

 

 

 

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2014
  • From: Michigan
Posted by silentbob33 on Friday, June 20, 2014 11:13 PM

Great work!  Thanks for the step-by-step.  I'm currently working on the AM SBD-5, and I'm with you on lamenting the fact that they closed shop.  It's by far the most detailed kit I've ever worked on.

On my bench: Academy 1/35 UH-60L Black Hawk

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: Phoenix, AZ
Posted by Fly-n-hi on Saturday, June 21, 2014 2:14 AM

Looks like another great build!  I always enjoy your step by step commentaries even though I don't really build WWII subjects.

cml
  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Brisbane, Australia
Posted by cml on Saturday, June 21, 2014 7:35 AM

Nice subject Lawdog.

I have this kit in the stash so I'll be watching this wip closely. Great tips so far.

Chris

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Saturday, June 21, 2014 8:00 AM

Great work dog. I do the same thing about spraying the pit black to help out with the shadows  but I use decanted Krylon or Floquil Engine Black. Speaking of Floquil, the BEST paint I have ever used and was lucky to hoard up some bottles of Old Silver, Bright Silver and Platinum Mist before they vanished from the Hobby Shops. I'm down to my last bottle of Engine Black which hand brushes like a dream.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: England
Posted by P mitch on Saturday, June 21, 2014 8:18 AM

I have a SBD 1 and the SBD 5 (reboxed by Italeri) so I'll be keeping an eye on this on how to do it right.

Phil

"If anybody ever tells you anything about an aeroplane which is so bloody complicated you can't understand it, take it from me: it's all balls." R J Mitchell


GAF
  • Member since
    June 2012
  • From: Anniston, AL
Posted by GAF on Saturday, June 21, 2014 2:14 PM

Joe,

Beautiful work, as usual!  I've been waiting for this since the Hellcat.  Big Smile

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: State of Mississippi. State motto: Virtute et armis (By valor and arms)
Posted by mississippivol on Saturday, June 21, 2014 2:32 PM

Thanks for showing how you build the office! I concur about Accurate Miniatures, I need to pull that kit down off the shelf and get building...

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by bvallot on Saturday, June 21, 2014 6:14 PM

I do like how Accurate Miniatures worked their kits.  It is a shame.  I'm about to start an SBD-3 as well.  It'll be one from the Battle of Coral Sea.  I'm still trying to find the plane for John J Powers.  He was from VB-2 I believe it was... on the Yorktown.  If I can't feel good about attempting that one, then his buddy William E Hall will be second on the list.  I'm still trying to decided whether to do the Hasegawa kit or the AccuMin kit.  Would anybody here like to chime in?  I've looked for the Aries cockpit for the Hasegawa, but have not been able to find it anywhere...which leads me towards the AccuMin.

Looking good as always Joe.  I'll be watching this one to see what you come up with.  And the light box came in!! So I've been tinkerin' with that.   =]

On the bench:  

Tamiya F4U-1  Kenneth Walsh

 

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Saturday, June 21, 2014 8:00 PM

Thanks folks.  PJ, someone apparently bought out the Floquil brand and discontinued it.  Or someone bought it out a while ago "then" decided to axe it.  Who knows.  Agreed, they do brush paint nice, probably because its nice and thin to begin with.  I wish I would have done the same and stocked up on their silvers and Grimy Black.  Fortunately my bottle of Bright Silver is full and should last forever. 

Bvallot, I would recommend the Accurate Miniatures kit, which is now boxed by Academy I believe.  I've read the Dauntless is not one of Hasegawa's better kits. The AM kit is simply breath taking.  

Joe

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by bvallot on Saturday, June 21, 2014 8:36 PM

Well, that's all the convincing I needed.

On the bench:  

Tamiya F4U-1  Kenneth Walsh

 

  • Member since
    February 2011
  • From: Bent River, IA
Posted by Reasoned on Sunday, June 22, 2014 4:54 PM

Looking froward to this one Joe, AM kits are some of the best out there.  I think I remember reading that their molds have been moth-balled and not sold.

Science is the pursiut of knowledge, faith is the pursuit of wisdom.  Peace be with you.

On the Tarmac: 1/48 Revell P-38

In the Hanger: A bunch of kits

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Sunday, June 22, 2014 6:10 PM

What a great step-by-step so far.

Thanks, Joe!

-Greg

  • Member since
    May 2014
Posted by SubarooMike on Sunday, June 22, 2014 8:03 PM

More pictures! Big SmileYes

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Thursday, June 26, 2014 4:08 AM

Thanks folks.  Mike, I have plenty more pictures.....get ready.  I'm back with installment number 2 regarding cockpit painting and weathering.  I left off with brush painting the various boxes and such.  Actually, once upon a time, I used to tediously tape off each box individually with strips of Tamiya tape and spray them.  Then one day I decided to try brushpainting them (out of pure lazyness) and low and behold, I really couldn't tell the difference.   Lets dive back in....

Once I have all boxes and such handpainted to my general liking, its time to drybrush to bring out the details. I use Floquil Bright Silver, but any silver enamel will do.  I don't know why, but enamels dry brush better.  Perhaps it has something to do with being oil based.  I use a flat stubby brush for this.  I generally don't get too carried away with this, just enough to make the details pop out a bit. On a sidenote, I also like to paint a box or other such detail on the sidewalls something colorful, to draw the eye in.  It may not be "correct" but it does the trick.  Here you will see I painted a cylinder light blue.  Correct?........no...but who cares.  I once painted an O2 tank in a Spit blue for the same reason (and caught s@#t about it.........lol).   

After drybrushing, I take a tooth pick and start "picking" (pun intended) out buttons and knobs.  With me, these can also be done in any color.  The most common colors I use are red and yellow, but I have been experimenting with blue lately too.  Some switches I leave silver.  Here the radio deck gets the treatment.

Photo etch has been added where appropriate.  On this one I used the seatbelts and instrument panels.  I did detail the turret with belts too.  I just don't think the AM Dauntless needs more than this. The cockpit is truly a masterpiece OOB.   Here I think I'm done, and should be ready for the next step in weathering. 

Its now time to prepare the surface(s) for the wash.  I use Testor's Gloss coat thinned with lacquer thinner as a barrier.  As you can see I keep my lacquer thinner in a pump bottle.  It dispenses just what you need and is highly recommended.  I've been doing this for years (note the condition of the bottle..LOL). 

I spray the gloss on everything until shiny.  It might take a few coats. 

Here we are all shiny.  You can start washing after about an hour.  This stuff dries fast.  I forgot Future a long time ago.  

Now for my favorite part.....the wash.  It just makes the whole thing come alive.  Here's my "go to" wash for just about everything.  The guy at my LHS told me to give it a try and I haven't looked back.  It's water based and easy to work with.  I like to mix the brown and black with varying degrees of intensities.  Just dip a brush and slop it on, its that easy. 

Here we are all washed up.  I let it "settle" for a half hour or so (I suppose you can do it the next day or longer if you want)...

Its now time to start removing the excess wash.  I take bowl of water and a paint brush and get to work "washing it"....literally.  The wash will re-liquify with the wet brush and it will slowly deteriorate and leave it in the crevices and such.  I periodically dry the brush off on a paper towel which helps it absorb more. 

Eventually it will look like this, which is where I generally stop.  It shows some of the drybrushing and still highlights all of the nice detail, such as the grooved gunner's floor and the wear from the pilot's feet on the floor.  This looks sufficient to my eye.

Next we are going to flat coat it.  I use Testor's Flat coat thinned with a few squirts of lacquer thinner.  This is still the best flat coat on the planet and I've never had the need to use anything else. 

Here's how it looks when done. I prefer an ever so slight sheen...like velvet. 

The final part is optional.  Sometimes I do it, sometimes I don't........depends on the cockpit.  It works best on lighter colored cockpits.  It involves an "airbrush" postshade which adds just a touch more dimension  The key is to dial down the pressure and get in close.  I use diluted XF-69 NATO Black mixed with XF-64 Red Brown and hit the crevices.  I also streak it downward a smidge.  (Note:  I keep this mixture pre-mixed in a glass bottle so I always have it on hand.) 

Well thats it.  We are done.  Here's the finished cockpit. 

I started assembling some of it. Is it me, or are the Eduard belts a tad overscale.  Maybe in the Dauntless these were huge.  Here's where I left off.

Well, thats how I do my cockpits.  The materials I use are fast drying and I can usually get a single engine fighter cockpit done in a few hours.  I hope some of you try some of these techniques.  Questions and comments are always welcome...

Joe

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2011
  • From: Bent River, IA
Posted by Reasoned on Thursday, June 26, 2014 7:42 AM

Thanks Joe for the tutorial, the office looks sweet as usual.  Once you apply "The Detailer" and begin the water wash with brush, I'd imagine you have to be very careful around the fiddly bits, you do the entire CP that way?

Science is the pursiut of knowledge, faith is the pursuit of wisdom.  Peace be with you.

On the Tarmac: 1/48 Revell P-38

In the Hanger: A bunch of kits

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by bvallot on Thursday, June 26, 2014 7:47 AM

Joe, another success story! lol. This Dauntless cockpit it sufficiently busy enough to warrant a walkthrough.  I think it's the perfect WW2 plane to do it for.  And I suppose this leaves no doubt for me now about the AccuMin kit.  This cockpit is gorgeous!!  All of this is right out of the box?

On the bench:  

Tamiya F4U-1  Kenneth Walsh

 

  • Member since
    January 2014
  • From: Toronto
Posted by Rob S. on Thursday, June 26, 2014 7:54 AM

Wow, this is spectacular. I have now bookmarked this as my `go to `guide!! Many thanks and thanks for further strengthening my joy at joining this site earlier this year!!

______________________________________________________________________________

 

On the Bench: Nothing on the go ATM

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: Sarasota, FL
Posted by RedCorvette on Thursday, June 26, 2014 10:40 AM

Very nice work.  Thanks for sharing.

Mark

FSM Charter Subscriber

  • Member since
    June 2014
Posted by BrandonK on Thursday, June 26, 2014 4:54 PM

This build has me stoked. I went to EBay and found this kit and it was reasonably priced so I bought it for my stash. I have an urge to built some fighter bombers now. Thanks for the inspiration.

On the bench:

Tamiya 1/35 M4A3E8 "Fury" with crew,

1/32 Kittyhawk Kingfisher,

1/35 Meng Panther Ausf A Early,

1/48 Pro Modeller P-51C "Boise Bee"

On Deck:

Tamiya 1/48 F4U Birdcage, 

1/25 Revell 32 Ford Coupe

1/12 Bandai "Mandolorian"

2022 Completed:

1/25 Revell 29 Highboy

1/48 Tamiya Sea Harrier

1/25 Revell 70 Boss 429 Mustang

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Friday, June 27, 2014 3:27 AM

Thanks for all the kind words all.  

Reasoned, I've never had much trouble there.  I just make sure everything is glued down and dried.  I just wipe away with the brush until I'm happy with the look.  This method is sort of like the opposite of an oil wash I suppose.  Oil washes scare me. This method is foolproof.  I'm all about finding the easy way out and exploiting it. 

Bvallot, no doubt, get one.  I'm considering getting several more.  Yes, it was the "perfect storm" so to speak for a tutorial, especially since it came with a PE fret.  I hope the rest of the kit is as nice as the cockpit.  Unfortunately all my reading so far on the kit says everything except for IP, the pilot seat and the gunner seat will be hidden.  I'm glad I didn't waste my time with the sidewall PE detail.  

Rob, your welcome and welcome aboard.  Some of the best modelers in the world lurk in this forum and they have taught me plenty, as they will you.  

Mark, thank you.

Brandon, nice grab.  Thats were I got this one (the other 40% off at Hobby Lobby when they carried the good stuff..thats another story).......and thanks for the compliment.  

Joe  

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Corpus Christi, Tx
Posted by mustang1989 on Friday, June 27, 2014 4:02 AM

Jeez!! I just ordered an AM SBD-4 Joe!!! Like I needed another kit! lol  I built a Monogram SBD that I used alot of parts from my spare Hasegawa SBD kit in the stash and after I built that one I had a desire to get an AM kit. Now that I've seen this build it was the tipping over that I needed to go ahead and grab one. Nice build and thanks for the interior build up tutorial. I'll be using that!

                   

 

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Brunswick, Ohio
Posted by Buckeye on Friday, June 27, 2014 11:21 AM

Mighty fine work there!  Thanks for the tutorial.  Will have to try out those Testors products.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Friday, June 27, 2014 12:48 PM

Beautiful work on the cockpit. you have really made the details pop!

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Saturday, June 28, 2014 3:20 PM

That is some fantastic painting and shading that just adds tons to the cockpit. Beer

I have seen that wash either at Hobby Lobby or another hobby store and wondered how well that stuff works. I stay away from water based washes cause IMO they don't flow the same as the solvent type but your method here sure looks like it worked like a charm. I just may pick up a bottle of that stuff next time to try. I recently purchased a couple of bottles of Vallejo washes and I don't like how they flow, even with some Dawn in the mix to break up the surface tension.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    December 2010
  • From: Raliegh, NC
Posted by DWood538 on Saturday, June 28, 2014 8:48 PM

Of course another stunning build! I really appreciate the cockpit tutorial, that is exactly what I needed to clear up my questions on your cockpits. I love your WIPs so keep them coming!

-Derek

  • Member since
    February 2011
  • From: Detroit, MI
Posted by Marmaduke on Monday, June 30, 2014 8:43 PM

Excellent step by step! You make it look so easy! Also, great looking kit! Now I'm off to find me some of that wash!

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Monday, June 30, 2014 10:38 PM

Thanks everyone.  I hope some of you get some use out of the tutorial, which is my intent afterall.  PJ, I can't stand Vallejo washes either, or pretty much any of their "Air" product line.  I just don't see the reason for the hype.  Its like trying to airbrush Tempura paints (remember these?).  Maybe I just don't know how to use the stuff, but as long as Tamiya paints are available, I'll stick to those. 

Anyways, I got some bench time in last night, which involved assembly of the airframe.  This was bittersweet as you will see later.  I closed the fuselage without to much issue.  I had a little trouble getting the gunner seat in place, but a touch of Tenax took care of that.   Everything seemed to line up ok.

I tried something different this time and actually followed the instructions (I usually use them as a "loose" reference LOL).  I attached the fuselage to the lower wing, then glued the bottom front and the rear wing fuselage joint.  On the latter I used CA so it would sit flat.  I had some large gaps there that required putty.   (Here we can again see where the original owner of the kit painted the inner wing.)

I then added the upper wings and the fit was good....no issues at all.  I then started work on the front gun deck/ cowl area.  It was here that I ran right into a brick wall.  During test fitting of the forward fuselage and the gun deck above it,  There was a 1/8th inch gap (See photo). 

  

After about an hour of fiddling and cussing, I realized one of these two pieces (below) were wrong for the dash 3.......but which?. 

I briefly recalled that I did buy this kit second-hand, so something may have gotten mixed up.  But no, I cut all parts off the sprues?....WTF?   I then jumped on the net.  Research then revealed that AM quaility control had dropped the ball and mixed up the cowl parts with the "Midway SBD 3" release (my kit) and their dash 5 release.  Apparently the dash 5 was longer from the leading edge of the wing forward, which is why I have a longer gun deck piece and a huge gap.   

Unfortunately I will have to shelve this guy until I come up with a solution (can you hear the balloon deflating?).  Its my understanding that Academy is now boxing the AM Dauntless molds.  Perhaps they will replace it for me if I promise to buy an F-86?

postponed until further notice...let's see what happens....

Joe

 

 

 

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by bvallot on Monday, June 30, 2014 10:59 PM

That's a bummer to hear Joe.  I was just reading a review discussing the same thing.  I wondered if you would find the same thing with your kit.  I actually should be getting the Academy SBD-2 "Battle of Midway" boxing in the mail soon.  I can peak inside and see if it looks any different.

On the bench:  

Tamiya F4U-1  Kenneth Walsh

 

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Corpus Christi, Tx
Posted by mustang1989 on Monday, June 30, 2014 11:05 PM

yikes............................................................

                   

 

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