Lola T-70 MkIII [FINISHED!]

This is way more interesting than reading an article after the fact.  Thanks for bringing us along.  I had a couple of questions, but your last post answered one of them (was wondering if this was a vintage racer as it is now vs. factory spec. Never thought of a street car.)  The second is why the use of magnets?  Is it to make mocking things up easier as you go along?  I'm really looking forward to more.

Scale-Master

Since this is going to be a relatively modern street car, I designed a custom T-70 styled wheel with seven spokes (instead of six) and printed a pair of masters for the front and the rear.  (This is a front.)

 

Thanks guys!

I'm actually a bit farther along on this project than the narrative and photos show, I'm trying to get it caught up here so I can post in "real time" as I progress.

Yes, the magnets are for mocking up and fitting purposes in most cases, but I've found some other uses for them with moving parts.  I was using tiny screws, but they didn't stand up to the rigors of assembly/diassembly.  The heads were stripping out after a dozen uses plus the plastic threads were wearing out.  Even though it takes longer to install magnets, the time saved by using them is worth it.  I can tear down and rebuild most of the car in a couple minutes now.  

This is modeling on a whole new level.

BK

Thanks Brandon!

Once in primer I still was not satisfied so I re-engineered the wheel to be three pieces instead of two.

This is the new spoke piece as it was grown.

And then machined.

This is the rear section of the new rim design; it still needs to be final machined.

The U.V. resin is very hard and brittle.  That part did not survive the machining process.

I started growing a beefier part and realized I could probably machine one from scratch faster.

I was correct, made this from scratch before the printer could grow one.

The first front and rear resin copies.

The half-shafts are done for now. I cast the yokes in resin (dyed black) the 3D masters.

The shafts are brass acid treated for the dark finish.

Each U-joint has four bearings/caps (with E clips) and they work. The half-shafts telescope too.

Those half shafts are incredible.  A couple more questions.  In one of your earlier posts, you mentioned that the brass piece was acid cut.  Does this mean you are making your own photo etch?  The second is about the tire in the photo of the wheel mock up.  Is that the kit tire or did you scratch build it and cast it in black resin?

Yes, I used to make my own photo-etch, but I have come up with a similar process that does away with the photo-resist portion of the process and provides at least as good as results.  It still uses the same chemicals to cut the brass.  It can be used to make some parts much easier than "traditional" methods like this rearend cover.

The tire is from the Tamiya kit.  I have made my own tires, (like these)...

But the Lola kit tires are really nice and it would be a shame not to use them.

The rear end cover is simply amazing.  Thanks for answering my questions.  

Thank you!  And you're welcome!

Hmmm;

 I have a Kia Soul.Could I do my alternator like that? LOL.LOL. Very awesome indeed!

Sure, it's an OEM alternator, just use your shrink ray to make a copy...

A couple of more questions for you. I've noticed that when you mocked up your suspension (and other parts) that there were no nuts or bolts yet.  Do you use the nuts and bolts that are commercially available or will you make your own?  The second regards the parts you grow on the printer. Why the use of a translucent material?  Does it give better detail than a more opaque material?  The reason I ask is that while it's cool seeing the part as it comes from the printer, it's hard to see the detail you've designed into the part until it's been painted.  Also, do you worry about the growth lines or does your printer or the commercial printing company you use print layers fine enough that you don't have to clean them up? The carbs look great.

Okay;

 Enough already! This is going down as the most fascinating I have ever seen. My Budget doesn't allow for those thingies. The Car parts I mean. Well , the Printer too. What is truly fascinating to me is how quickly the machines have progressed to the point they are at.

    You could build a model car truly from scratch. Making every Panel, Piece and Nut, Bolt and Brace and Bracket! WOW ! For Ships this would mean I could do a Coast Guard 85' WHPC and do every Frame, The Keel and even the Plates for the Hull!

       Biggest problem? Cost of the Printer, the Material, and the Smarts around Computer driven stuff, The last, I Definitely Don't have! Oh! You'll have to go to a Jewelery or Watch supply company for Nuts, Bolts and such.

Tanker-Builder

Okay;

 Enough already! This is going down as the most fascinating I have ever seen. My Budget doesn't allow for those thingies. The Car parts I mean. Well , the Printer too. What is truly fascinating to me is how quickly the machines have progressed to the point they are at.

    You could build a model car truly from scratch. Making every Panel, Piece and Nut, Bolt and Brace and Bracket! WOW ! For Ships this would mean I could do a Coast Guard 85' WHPC and do every Frame, The Keel and even the Plates for the Hull!

       Biggest problem? Cost of the Printer, the Material, and the Smarts around Computer driven stuff, The last, I Definitely Don't have! Oh! You'll have to go to a Jewelery or Watch supply company for Nuts, Bolts and such.

 

Okay;

Since you mention it, I have built models 100% completely from scratch.   Including making all the items most people source from other kits. 

The last one I built did not even use 3D technology of any kind on it.  I did it fully with "old school" modeling; even the parts I machined were done manually on a twenty-something year old entry level mill.  

(It earned the Best of Show and several other awards at the 2015 GSL.)

You're right about the speed of growth of the new technology, but at the same time prices are dropping too; a really good 3D printer is far less expensive than a decent lathe, or than you may think.  And the materials are very inepensive when you realize how far they go.  I spend more annually on resin casting supplies by a significant amount.

Free 3D software is available, (although I use some kind of pricey software for my "real" job and use it for modeling too).  Check out Sketchup, it's still free. Most come with easy to follow tutorials so just about anyone can figure it out.  That's how I learned...

Jewelry and watch parts usually do not look like scaled down hex nuts and bolts, so they don't work for me, especially for smaller scale projects.  Plus they are far more expensive than me making my own from scratch, in addition I get enjoyment from creating what I want as compared to settling for what might work.

If you actually wanted to make these kinds of parts, time is probably the biggest investment you'll need to make.  Actual out of pocket cost is not that much.  I built the model above for under $350.00 in raw materials. 

Tamiya makes a wonderful kit of a similar car in the same scale, it will set you back close to $700.00 plus the paint and other items to assemble it. Dollar for dollar I got more building value out of mine than from a kit.

If you're interested in this type of modeling I'd suggest you do some real research into this stuff; I think you'll be surprised how affordable it really is.  If you have the time it will most certainly pay off.

lewbud

  

A couple of more questions for you. I've noticed that when you mocked up your suspension (and other parts) that there were no nuts or bolts yet.  Do you use the nuts and bolts that are commercially available or will you make your own?  The second regards the parts you grow on the printer. Why the use of a translucent material?  Does it give better detail than a more opaque material?  The reason I ask is that while it's cool seeing the part as it comes from the printer, it's hard to see the detail you've designed into the part until it's been painted.  Also, do you worry about the growth lines or does your printer or the commercial printing company you use print layers fine enough that you don't have to clean them up? The carbs look great.