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1971 Ford Torino GT

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  • Member since
    January 2021
1971 Ford Torino GT
Posted by Mike F on Thursday, January 14, 2021 11:42 AM

Hello fellow modelers,

It has been some time since I posted here. A couple years, in fact.

Back then, I had started this model. I picked it up again recently and am near finished.

It is the first time I have attempted to detail the engine and undercarriage. Turned out OK for first attempt, but some issues that I have learned from for next time.

Enjoy my crappy pics.



Tags: Torino


  • Member since
    January 2021
Posted by Mike F on Tuesday, January 19, 2021 8:38 AM

Boy, am I bummed....

I was finishing up with som decal and placement of some photoetched lettering "GT",

when i lost one of the "G"s, trying to place it and messed up the paint at the same time with the glue. The "G" stuck to the tweezer and when I tried to pick it up again it popped out of the tweezer, into the unforgiving abyss of the floor.

I am going to try and find some metallic lettering to replace it, after I try to fix the paint.

These photoetched parts are very difficult to work with.



  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: East Bethel, MN
Posted by midnightprowler on Tuesday, January 19, 2021 4:12 PM

Looking good.  Photobucket sucks.

Hi, I am Lee, I am a plastiholic.

Co. A, 682 Engineers, Ltchfield, MN, 1980-1986

1 Thessalonians 4:13-18 1 Corinthians 15:51-54

Ask me about Speedway Decals

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by keavdog on Tuesday, January 19, 2021 4:14 PM




  • Member since
    January 2020
  • From: Maryland
Posted by wpwar11 on Tuesday, January 19, 2021 5:56 PM

I'm with you on the photo etch.  I'm getting better at working with it but there is a learning curve.  Sadly decals don't look as good as PE in my opinion.   I mostly build aircraft and like PE for seat belts-if I can get them on right.

The engine detail and car look great.  Love the color.

  • Member since
    January 2021
Posted by Mike F on Tuesday, January 19, 2021 6:08 PM

Thanks all for the kind comments.

I wish I had a better camera. The paint is much better looking in person. Color, if I remember correctly is "British Green".


  • Member since
    May 2017
Posted by bugman9317 on Wednesday, January 20, 2021 2:58 PM

I too was having a tough time with little PE pieces. I started using a jewel setter with good results. The end is just wax and you can form it to smaller point if you wish.

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Boston
Posted by Wilbur Wright on Wednesday, January 20, 2021 3:54 PM

My second car was a 1971 Torino 500.   It was a great looikng car but they were prone to severe rust and a design problem where the back springs would rot through the trunk.

Similar problem in my 69 Mustang, and many 60's Mustangs.

  • Member since
    July 2008
  • From: Albany, NY
Posted by jeffpez on Wednesday, January 20, 2021 3:59 PM

A very long time ago I had one of these as a company car. It was a pale white and was a piece of junk. Yours is far better looking than mine was but thankfully I didn't actually own it. The right front suspension broke after hitting a large pothole in Philadelphia. Good riddence.

Great job and thanks for sharing.

  • Member since
    April 2012
Posted by nearsightedjohn on Thursday, January 21, 2021 6:39 PM

Hey Mike,

Nice job on all the details under the hood and on the chassis underside.  I'm particularly impressed with your brake and fuel lines.  Did you use super thin (< 0.4 mm) solder wire for these?

PE takes a lot of practice.  I've gotten better by doing PE on 1/350 ship builds but it is easier on ships because one generally bonds it into place before painting.  To CA glue PE emblems directly to a finished painted model car body sounds really tough - to locate and align it perfectly without slipping or moving it. I think I'll stick to decals!  Too bad there aren't after market adhesive-backed foil emblems available like Tamiya provides in some of their car kits (the ones provided in the recent Merc 300 SL kit are amazing).

Thanks for sharing - build and post more cars here when you can! John

  • Member since
    January 2021
Posted by Mike F on Sunday, January 24, 2021 1:11 PM
Thanks for the kind words John. The brake and fuel lines are very thin gauge wire, not solder. The "clamps" are thin staples that I pushed through small drilled holes and then twisted the ends together on the backside to hold the lines in place.



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