SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

WIP Tamiya 1/12 scale Ferrari 312T (Updated April 29)

6406 views
49 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Close to Chicago
WIP Tamiya 1/12 scale Ferrari 312T (Updated April 29)
Posted by JohnnyK on Wednesday, March 3, 2021 1:39 PM

I really like Tamiya's series of  1/12 scale models. Tamiya does an excellent job of engineering and detailing the parts of these kits. It is unfortunate that Tamiya no longer makes these kits. I am sure that the cost of doing the engineering and making the molds for these kits makes these kits unprofitable. The best place to find these kits is on eBay.

 

spacer.png

spacer.png

spacer.png

 Above are two of my recent 1/12 scale builds, a Lotus and an Elf six wheeler. The Elf was a challenging build to say the least.

 

spacer.png

spacer.png

This time I'm building the Ferrari 312T. The kit was manufactured in 1975 and it has over 400 beautifully detailed parts. The engine alone has almost 200 parts.

spacer.png

I bought the kit on eBay. When I opened the box all the parts were in their original bags. 

spacer.png

I took a look at the instructions and noticed a slight problem. The instructions are printed in Japanese!! I'll have to look for a set of English instructions on the Internet.

spacer.png

This an old kit and the white decals had turned yellow. I'll need to find a set of replacement decals in the Internet.

spacer.png

There are a lot of frets in this kit so I marked each fret with masking tape and a black marker. This saves a lot of time searching for the applicable fret while building.

Now, onto the build.

I'm going to start with the wheels and tires. The wheels in the kit are grey plastic. On the 1:1 car the wheels came in three styles: the rims and spokes were painted gold, the rims were chrome plated and the spokes were painted gold, the rims were polished aluminum and the spokes were panted gold. I'm going to do the polished rims and gold spokes.

spacer.png

The tires that come with the kit are really nice. Soft vinyl with embossed "Goodyear". However, the tires are very shiny, which is not typical of the real thing.

 

spacer.png

I am going to use a brown mud by aqualine to make the tires look dirty. This is a reactivatable acrylic wash. After the wash dries it can be reactivated, or removed, with water. 

 

spacer.png

spacer.png

First I dipped my brush into water then into the mud wash. I painted the tread and sidewalls with the wash and then rubbed the wash off using a paper towel. If the wash dries it can be reactivated with water. I do not know if this procedure can be achieved with any other wash, so be careful.

spacer.png

The rims were painted with Testors' Model Master Metallizer Aluminum Plate and polished with a paper stump. The spokes were painted with Testors' gold. Note the dirty sidewalls on the tire.

spacer.png

spacer.png

I added tire pressure valves; left side, right side marks; and wheel weights. For the wheel weights I glued a small piece of plastic to the rim and covered it in Bare Metal Foil to simulate duct tape. Dust tape is used to secure the weights to the rims on the 1:1 cars.

 

 

Your comments and questions are always welcome.

  • Member since
    January 2020
  • From: Maryland
Posted by wpwar11 on Wednesday, March 3, 2021 4:26 PM

Why not sand off that seam down the middle of the tire?

  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Close to Chicago
Posted by JohnnyK on Wednesday, March 3, 2021 4:58 PM

wpwar11

Why not sand off that seam down the middle of the tire?

 

That's a good question. There is actually a seam running down the tire on the 1:1 car. The seam wears off during the race.

Your comments and questions are always welcome.

  • Member since
    January 2020
  • From: Maryland
Posted by wpwar11 on Wednesday, March 3, 2021 6:03 PM

Yeah I see that.  I think you did such a wonderful job weathering the tire it wouldn't have a seam in that state.  Did the great Jim Clark drive that Lotus?  Please for the love of god tell me your going to build the Ferrari with Lauda.

I love F1.  You brought these wonderful cars to life with superior build skills.  Nice.

  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Close to Chicago
Posted by JohnnyK on Thursday, March 4, 2021 5:16 PM

The engine and transmission have almost 120 parts. This should be fun, so I'll start with the transmission.

spacer.png

spacer.png

The transmission is painted a gold color on the 1:1 car. I did a test using Tamiya gold that was over sprayed with  a clear flat.

spacer.png

spacer.png

spacer.png

I did a test fit and noticed that the joint was open and looked bad. There was flashing and plastic snots on the mating surfaces. After a few strokes with the sanding stick the joint was nice and tight. 

spacer.png

A light wash brought out the details of the ribs. I replaced the plastic bolts with stainless steel bolts. 

Tomorrow, Friday, I get my second COVID shot Big Smile

Your comments and questions are always welcome.

  • Member since
    April 2012
Posted by nearsightedjohn on Thursday, March 4, 2021 7:23 PM

Hey, I get my booster shot tomorrow too! Pfizer! How lucky are we? I have to thank my wife for waking up at some crazy awful zero dark 30 hour to get me appointments, unlike her, Im actually ok spending every single day over that last year building models in the garage....

Love the big air box 312T! I have a 1/20 Hasegawa kit of this car and will be watching your build closely. are you planning on "weathering" the rest of the build like you did on the tires? 

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by keavdog on Thursday, March 4, 2021 7:42 PM

Nice!  I'll be following along.  I may have to try one of these big Tamiya kits.  Heck 1/20 Ebbro F1 kits are getting to pricey.  I wish we had more F1 kits

Thanks,

John

  • Member since
    January 2020
  • From: Maryland
Posted by wpwar11 on Thursday, March 4, 2021 7:48 PM

keavdog

Nice!  I'll be following along.  I may have to try one of these big Tamiya kits.  Heck 1/20 Ebbro F1 kits are getting to pricey.  I wish we had more F1 kits

 

amen to more F1 kits.  Especially anything before 1990.

fox
  • Member since
    January 2007
  • From: Narvon, Pa.
Posted by fox on Thursday, March 4, 2021 11:06 PM

Got a tip to save you a few bucks. Take the decals and tape them to the inside of a window that gets a lot of sun. Don't lay them flat to the window because if they get damp, they will be ruined. Keep a close watch on them.  If you get lucky and get a lot of sun, your decals should be back to their original color in 2 or 3 days. I did a sheet for my Fujimi F6F-5 a few months ago. They were really yellowed badly. I didn't get a lot of sun so just kept an eye on them and they were great in 6 days just sitting there all by themselves. Saved me the time and money looking for a replacement.

Hope this works for you. Good Luck.

Jim Captain

Stay Safe.

 Main WIP: 

   On the Bench:  Revell 1/96 USS Kearsarge - 70% 

I keep hitting "escape", but I'm still here.

  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Close to Chicago
Posted by JohnnyK on Friday, March 5, 2021 1:11 PM

Yes, I will be weathering the entire car. Rac cars get dirty during the course of the race.

Thanks for the tip regarding the yellowed decals. I'll give that a try. My other concern about the decals is that they are over 30 years old. Will they fall apart when the are put into water? I guess that we shall see.

Your comments and questions are always welcome.

  • Member since
    April 2012
Posted by nearsightedjohn on Friday, March 5, 2021 1:12 PM

Window method works good but you may also need to coat or spray a restorative decal film solution such as Microscale liquid decal film before cutting and using them. I window bleached some old Lindberg car model decals recently and the yellowing disappeared after a few days but they cracked badly after immersion in water.

  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Close to Chicago
Posted by JohnnyK on Friday, March 5, 2021 1:17 PM

 

Update March 5

spacer.png

Note the colors of the fuel injector bodies on the 1:1 car. They are a light brown color.

spacer.png

I used two shades of brown to duplicate the 1:1 car's fuel injector bodies. 

spacer.png

The Kit's fuel injector horns are chrome plated. I gave them a wipe with 0000 steel wool to simulate the look of aluminum. 

spacer.png

The kit includes wires for the the twelve spark plug cables. The result looks like a mess after the wires were attached to the distributor.

spacer.png

I cut the insulation from a mouse cable into thin rings. The rings helped to organize the cables.

Your comments and questions are always welcome.

  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Close to Chicago
Posted by JohnnyK on Sunday, March 7, 2021 3:43 PM

 

Revised March 7

I got my second COVID shot on Friday. I was really tired on Saturday and slept almost all day. Today, Sunday, I feel feel back to normal.

spacer.png

spacer.png

The engine block was painted with Model Master Metallizer Aluminum Plate. After the paint dried I painted it with a flat clear topcoat. I made a decision early on that this build will look like it has just finished a race. In other words, it will look dirty. I used a combination of a mud colored wash and Testors' Acrylic Wash on the engine block. The bottom of the engine block is dirtier than the top. The washes nicely highlight the molded details.

Your comments and questions are always welcome.

  • Member since
    June 2018
  • From: Ohio (USA)
Posted by DRUMS01 on Sunday, March 7, 2021 4:23 PM

Hey JohnnyK, I totally agree with you regarding the Tamiya and Protar 1/12 F1 kits. I know Heller had a couple older / vintage kits too, but not to sure of the quality. I also noticed that Italeri has recently reissued the old Protar Alfa Romero 179C in 1/12 with a removable bonnet and some engine detail. The 2002 Ferrari below was a Revell kit. While it is the only one for that era of F1 car, it is not in the detail or fit and finish of Tamiya. 

Just wondering, did you ever got an english version of the instructions? The reason I ask is I have this kit as well, still in plastic. If my instructions are in American English I could perhaps copy or photo them to you. Just blow them up on your printer and you'll be good to go...

Also regarding your decals, if they have gotten too brittle I know that Indycals has some fantastic replacement decals (www.indycals.com). He makes them himself and they are very accurate, lay well and are easy to use. I've purchased from there in the past, wonderful service and the owner is a modeler too. Studio 27 also makes a nice set for the 312T, when you can find them.

Here are some of my built 1/12 F1 kits:

REVELL

PROTAR

TAMIYA

 

Keep it up, you have a group watching now. We like following your work.

Ben

"Everyones the normal until you get to know them" (Unknown)

PROJECTS:

1/350 Tamiya Yamato WIP 

 

 

  • Member since
    June 2018
  • From: Ohio (USA)
Posted by DRUMS01 on Sunday, March 7, 2021 6:32 PM

JohnnyK, after my previous response I rushed down to open my 312T only to find that mine are all Japanese too. Let me know if and where you find an English set of instructions.

Ben

"Everyones the normal until you get to know them" (Unknown)

PROJECTS:

1/350 Tamiya Yamato WIP 

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2012
Posted by nearsightedjohn on Sunday, March 7, 2021 7:06 PM

Day after my 2nd shot also felt lousy for me as well, general fatigue, flu aches, couch bound. Slept ten hours last night, feel great today so hopefully in a few more weeks I'll be one less potential vector out there. Hopefully better days are ahead soon.

Love the idea that you're building a "post race" version. Are you working off of post-race photos of this or similar vintage F1 cars? I would think there was a lot of black rubber tire bits stuck to the surfaces from the road "marbles" coating a track at the end of a race. Let us know if you want some help looking for reference photos.

  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Close to Chicago
Posted by JohnnyK on Monday, March 8, 2021 12:52 PM

DRUMS01

JohnnyK, after my previous response I rushed down to open my 312T only to find that mine are all Japanese too. Let me know if and where you find an English set of instructions.

Ben

 

You can find the English Instructions here:  https://www.tamiya.de/en/service/manuals/

 

 

Your comments and questions are always welcome.

  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Close to Chicago
Posted by JohnnyK on Tuesday, March 9, 2021 1:02 PM

Updated March 9

spacer.png

spacer.png

The spark plug cables and fuel lines have been installed. The tubing used for the fuel lines was soft enough so that there was no kinking.

 

spacer.png

I cut the insulation from a mouse cable into thin rings. The rings were used to organize the cables and fuel lines. Nice and tidy.

 

spacer.png

Instead of a rubber hose I installed a braided oil line that I found in my extra box. I also used photo etched hose clamps.

 

 

Your comments and questions are always welcome.

  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Close to Chicago
Posted by JohnnyK on Wednesday, March 10, 2021 11:10 AM

Updated March 10

spacer.png

First I painted the rear brake housings with Model Master Metallizer Aluminum Plate. After the paint dried I painted it with a clear flat (left ). I didn't like the way that looked so I used Testors' Createfx Acrylic Wash to highlight the molded details. I also replaced the plastic bold heads with metal bolt heads.

spacer.png

spacer.png

spacer.png

The transmission, brakes and cooling ducts were added to the engine block. I replaced as many plastic bolt heads with metal bolt heads as possible. All of detailed moldings in the plastic parts were highlighted with a combination of Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color and a  thin black wash. The sharp edges of the moldings were highlighted by rubbing them with a lead pencil.

Next up is installing the 12 exhaust headers

 

Your comments and questions are always welcome.

  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Close to Chicago
Posted by JohnnyK on Thursday, March 11, 2021 2:37 PM

 

Updated March 11

spacer.png

There are some issues with the kit's exhaust paarts. The headers (red arrow) have noticeable mold lines that need to be removed. The exhaust pipes are not round in cross section. The exhaust pipe tips are too thick.

spacer.png

After removing the mold lines on the headers by scraping with the edge of a hoddy knife I painted the headers with Tamyia Primer White. I then then sprayed on a coat of Tamyia Flat Clear. I placed them in small containers marked with the part numbers to prevent them from getting mixed up.

 

spacer.png

spacer.png

I substituted aluminum tubing for the out of round plastic exhaust pipes. I turned the tube around the end of a small pliers to form the flared tips.

spacer.png
Installing the headers, collector and exhaust pipe is no easy task. All three parts need to be installed at the same time. A third hand, or prehensile tail, would be of great help. The trick is to use a slow setting, sticky glue. This allows you to jiggle the three headers and the collector around in order to get them in the correct alignment. I used red label Testors' glue and put a blob of glue into the header's flange holes and some glue on the tips of the headers.  After a minute or so the plastic became soft and sticky. After I assemble the parts, the sticky glue provided me the time to move the  parts around until they were correctly aligned. The glue needs to  cure overnight.

Your comments and questions are always welcome.

  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Close to Chicago
Posted by JohnnyK on Friday, March 12, 2021 1:10 PM

Updated March 12

spacer.png

The second set of headers has been installed. That needs to sit overnight.

Your comments and questions are always welcome.

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Saturday, March 13, 2021 2:31 PM

Definitely have a question for you.

        What are you going to make the intake Trumpet baskets out of. Or are those only on there for when it's on display to keep detritus out of the intakes?

  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Close to Chicago
Posted by JohnnyK on Monday, March 15, 2021 10:35 AM

Tanker-Builder

Definitely have a question for you.

        What are you going to make the intake Trumpet baskets out of. Or are those only on there for when it's on display to keep detritus out of the intakes?

 

Good question.  This kit did not come with PE parts, so I would have to meake the wire baskets.

 

This is the 1:1 car. Wire sceens in the shape of a ball were attached to the injector horns to prevent "stuff" from being ingested by the engine.

I was thinking of making the wire balls from this wire ribbon that I found at Hobby Lobby. I need to figure out how to make it into the shape of a ball.

Your comments and questions are always welcome.

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Monday, March 15, 2021 12:32 PM

That isn't that hard.

      How stable is the stuff for shaping( Will it hold the new shape)? Is it real wire and how stiff is it? Then you need the following. One piece of craft foam. No thicker that 1/8". You also will need a paint Brush or Pen that has a perfectly round end to the handle. Gently press the screen down, till it forms around the end of the tool.

  What you want is a perfectly shaped Hemisphere! Carefully cut-away what you don't need and cut them to fit around the very top edge of the horns. Then take a strip of foil or paper and create a hard looking edge. Glue the strip in place right at the edge of the ball. Slip on the horn and use white glue to fasten in place. Aleens CLEAR craft glue is what I use now. When it dries it disappears. I noticed two different types in your photos.

  If you want the ones with the internal support strips then again use very thin strips of foil and shape into the ball using the tool. Make sure they cross at a perfect 90 Degrees and using Aleens Clear just barely touch the points at the intersection and the base to glue them in.

  

   

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Roanoke, Virginia
Posted by BigJim on Monday, March 15, 2021 12:49 PM

JohnnyK
I was thinking of making the wire balls from this wire ribbon that I found at Hobby Lobby. I need to figure out how to make it into the shape of a ball.


Do yourself a favor and invest in a Dapping Block Set: https://www.amazon.com/SE-JT3405DS-Doming-Punch-Dapping/dp/B009ASXZHI

I am surprised that the kit didn't come with a set of screens, my T4 did and it was the early edition before PE parts.

  • Member since
    October 2014
Posted by spec4 on Monday, March 15, 2021 12:51 PM

Built this kit back in the 70’s. Real nice kit. I still like to build Tamiya 1/12 F1’s. Most kits that I’ve found on EBay the directions are in Japanese and it never makes a difference for me. I’ve tried to save old decals and never been successful. Try “ Indycal” Decals. You’ll find them on the net. 

  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Close to Chicago
Posted by JohnnyK on Tuesday, March 16, 2021 12:42 PM

I tried to make a ball out of the wire mesh ribbon. It diesn't work. The ribbin springs back to its original shape. No big deal. I'll just make the model without the screens on the intakes.

Your comments and questions are always welcome.

  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Close to Chicago
Posted by JohnnyK on Tuesday, March 16, 2021 12:45 PM

Update March 16

I finally finished the exhaust system. I'm glad that that is over. It was not fun.

Your comments and questions are always welcome.

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Roanoke, Virginia
Posted by BigJim on Wednesday, March 17, 2021 12:02 PM

JohnnyK

I tried to make a ball out of the wire mesh ribbon. It diesn't work. The ribbin springs back to its original shape. No big deal. I'll just make the model without the screens on the intakes.


Use brass mesh with the dapping block and you should be ok.

  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Close to Chicago
Posted by JohnnyK on Sunday, March 21, 2021 2:36 PM

This build is temporally on hold do to Spring clean-up and gardening work.

Your comments and questions are always welcome.

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.