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USS Misery..Uh..MIssouri order of assembly

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  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: The flat lands of the Southeast
USS Misery..Uh..MIssouri order of assembly
Posted by styrene on Monday, August 4, 2003 1:10 PM
Tamiya's 1/350 USS Missouri is my first plastic ship model since I put the USS North Carolina together almost 30 years ago. I'm trying to do some superdetailing (Lord knows it needs it.Wink [;)]), but I have a couple assembly questions.
1. At what point do you paint the hull--before or after beginning the superstructure?
2. If the hull is painted early on, is it better to go ahead and mount it to the base--and then assemble the rest of the model?
3. There are some pretty significant gaps between the deck pieces (Missouri has a 3-piece deck arrangement for whatever strange reason.) I'm going to put some .020" styrene under the joints for rigidigy, but what's the best way to cover/fill the deck joint seams? I'm assuming I'll have to rescribe the deck planks?
Sorry if these questions seem kinda stupid, but I've been a tread-head (armor modeller) too long. NO, I'm not saying that armor modellers ask stupid questionsTongue [:P] !!
Thanks in advance for all the help!
Gip Winecoff

1882: "God is dead"--F. Nietzsche

1900: "Nietzsche is dead"--God

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, August 4, 2003 1:21 PM
Can't wait to see some of the responses for this as I too will be doing this Missouri once the PE detail set gets to me.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, August 4, 2003 1:22 PM
if i were me i would paint the hull before assmbly & any other sub assemblies before final assembly. I would do this becuse the parts are easier to handle and the hull can be easier to paint withoutto many other parts getting in the way. also it depends on whether you are brush painting or using a air brush. i have mounted the hull to it's mounts & assembled but handleing it can make it more diffcult.if you are airbrushing i would paint before final mounting. as for covering seams or filling gaps i use bondo filler that you can find @ wal-mart in the automotive section & a tube will last a long time & i think this is better than the so called hobby putty. it sands and blends well. just my opinion
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Central MI
Posted by therriman on Monday, August 4, 2003 6:18 PM
I can't help you much as I haven't done this ship kit yet. However, If you pick up Mike Ashey's book "Basics of Ship Modeling" (published by Kalmbach). He covers most all of your questions on this kit w/photos.

Also he has posted some of your answers in another thread here.

http://www.finescale.com/fsm/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2763

Here it is.
Tim H. "If your alone and you meet a Zero, run like hell. Your outnumbered" Capt Joe Foss, Guadalcanal 1942 Real Trucks have 18 wheels. Anything less is just a Toy! I am in shape. Hey, Round is a shape! Reality is a concept not yet proven.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, August 4, 2003 9:28 PM
I have been laboring on this kit off and on for a couple of years now, so here's what I learned:

1) Paint all decking (including the superstructure decks) before assembly. Trust me, brushes are not meant to bend that many directions at once. You'll thank me later.

2) I attached the superstructure to the main deck before attaching to the hull. It gives more room to work with some of the smaller pieces, and allows for ease of painting.

3) Take up al of the slack that you can in the middle and at one end. It's alot easier to hide putty and filler work at the ends of the ship than in the middle, where seams are obvious, not to mention difficult to scribe. If you make the gap at the front of the bow, most of the putty work will be hidden by the forward gun stations.

Hope it helps you out.

demono69
  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: Rhode Island
Posted by oz1998 on Wednesday, August 6, 2003 12:15 PM
I agree that Mike Ashey's book that therriman mentioned is an excellent reference source. I use it myself. Sub-assemblies are definitly the way to go.

I just bought the Mighty Mo myself. I'm pondering over the paint scheme at the moment. I'm having a problem doing her up in the measure 22 camo scheme that seems so popular in all of the pictures of her I've seen, and what the instructions recommend. Guess I'm just tired of yet another Blue/Grey ship, particularly the deck. Does anyone see a problem as far as accuracy goes, if I did her up in standard battleship grey with a tan deck ? I understand she looked similar to this for her trip to Japan in 1945. I plan on researching the matter further, but thought someone might have a quick answer.

Ted
  • Member since
    March 2003
Posted by icit on Wednesday, August 6, 2003 12:51 PM
The answers on Mike Ashelys book are correct, its a great source of reference and if you use the PE parts from Gold Medals of Toms Works it makes a huge difference in the finished project. I built this kit years ago when I was stationed in Germany in a "tread head" regiment and the difference is amazing. Good Luck, keep us posted.
  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: Rhode Island
Posted by oz1998 on Wednesday, August 6, 2003 1:50 PM
I also agree that the PE kit is a must. I've seen several photos of the built model over the years and thought it was impressive enough until I went to my local hobby shop recently and saw the model displayed. The shop's owner had built it, and added the Tom's P/E kit. The finished model is truely awesome. Of all the pictures I've seen of her, none have come close to really capturing the true beauty of the model as seen first hand. So, you may have your hands full at times building her, But I'm sure in the end you'll end up with something to be proud of and admire yourself.

Ted
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