Three strikes, you’re out!

Eaglecash867

The sandability of both is great.

I just took a look at the body and holy man, I am impressed. 98% of it is near glass smooth. And yeah, it preserved the detail very well. I had one or two problem areas that had some sand papering. They were in odd corners where I would expect it. I sanded them out, no problem. This is cool stuff. I have used Tamiya Surface Primer before and I have to say that I might like this better. Too early to tell but I am impressed as all heck.

Good advice, GH. I will look into it...

Forgot to add....just a light scuff, just enough to take the sheen off.  Easy to go through thin layers of primer. As it wears, gets softer, and easier to get into tight areas, ie. Fuselage and lower wing around a wing strut.  For me, at least 4 times faster than sanding.

As it wears, might shed some fibers that can get stuck in a tight area.  Just check and  pull them out before color.

goldhammer88

Forgot to add....just a light scuff, just enough to take the sheen off.  Easy to go through thin layers of primer. As it wears, gets softer, and easier to get into tight areas, ie. Fuselage and lower wing around a wing strut.  For me, at least 4 times faster than sanding.

As it wears, might shed some fibers that can get stuck in a tight area.  Just check and  pull them out before color.

 

This sounds like good stuff. I will pick some up to try. 

Steve -

In the sixties I was half owner of a Cessna 210, I took care of any paint repairs that were needed, mostly paint chips from takeoff and landings with particles on the runway hitting the finish. While learning and using the paint application I saw the reference to induction, as a supplement about the paint system. The paint was DuPont Imron, a polyurethane system.

The difference induction made was subtle, but decidedly effective. Sprayed over a larger area, I could see that the paint layed on smoother and settled right down. With polyurethane paint applied to an aircraft there is no "adjusting" mixing amounts, the activator is a critical element and is to be measured accurately.

Same with model painting for me, I see a more predictably good paint layer being applied when I do my mixing, then waiting for those few minutes before actually laying the spray on.

I'll say it's even more noticeable when using straight enamel, although I have completely abandoned that from my inventory. Just how much someone else might notice it is questionable, but I use the method and am happy to continue as I do find it beneficial.

If I had to guess what induction literally means relative to paint solutions, perhaps it's an opportunity for the mixed ingredients to chemically blend more completely. But that's just a SWAG on my part, cuz I ain't no danged expert.

Glad you like using your new Mr. Color system, and by the way I have been using Leveling thinner for a while now, but rely mostly on IPA or X20-A. Even though I have an effective spray booth and fan/filter setup, the El Stinko factor of Leveling Thinner is rather obnoxious while mixing.

Patrick   

Patrick, thanks for additional information on induction. Very interesting.

patrick206

and by the way I have been using Leveling thinner for a while now, but rely mostly on IPA or X20-A. Even though I have an effective spray booth and fan/filter setup, the El Stinko factor of Leveling Thinner is rather obnoxious while mixing.

Yup. This is why I had migrated away from the leveling thinner, that being the fumes. And that is why I hoped the Badger primer would work, less obnoxious. I have a good system too but there is always some exposure during the process. I go to great lengths to minimize it. Even tonight I revamped my spray booth to minimize air leaks into my work invironment. My booth is almost a closed system. We shall see how much what I did improves things. For the most part, I don't use enamels either. For the project I am working on though, my local hobby store didn't have the colors I wanted in acrylic. I had to settle on enamels. Long story short, for the most part, I will limit the leveling thinner to when I must use lacquer or enamel.

Thank again for the explanation about the paint.