Homemade Decal Solvent

Thank you for the information. 

If your Micro Scale stuff doesn't smell of acetic acid, that's a problem.

I've tried vinegar too, usually diluted. It doesn't seem to work well.

As for acetone, well, better test it on something painted with whatever you used on your model first!

My humble advice is to get new bottles of Micro Sol and Micro Set before you go too much further.

A recent post on another forum  advocated using Tamiya X-20 as a solvent for decals. I have yet to try it, but I will. I have a Hasegawa project with decals that just won't settle down with Microsol. First, of course, I'll try it on a "crash test dummy" with same clear coat and scrap decals.

Mike

We seem to be conflating decal solvent and decal setting solutions in this thread.  They are not the same thing.

I know folks who do use vinegar as a setting solution. I have resisted that, as many of the vinegars you buy at grocery stores have various spices in the vinegar, and some of these have solids that participate out of solution as it dries. It can leave a crud behind.  So if you want to try vinegar as a setting solution, do a test on some scrap, not on a good model.

Like Don S said, decal setting solution and decal softening solution are two different things.  I use setting solution (Microsol product with a blue label) under the decal to prevent silvering, and softening solution (the Microsol product with the red label) on the top to soften the decal so it will conform to the surface.  Some decals will not soften using the Microsol?, even after applying heat from a hair dryer.  My last resort in that case is using denatured alcohol on the decal with the hair dryer.  DO NOT get the alcohol on a painted surface or it will eat it up.

Best to practice on test model before doing it on a nice one.

My two cents.

Maybe I should have explained a bit more.  The primary reason for decal setting solution is to decrease the surface tension of the water. If the water does not fully wet the paint, air bubbles will be trapped between the decal and the paint, and the glue will not adhere as well.  Some folks ad a tiny drop of detergent to improve wetting, others use both a drop of detergent and setting solutions.  Also, use soft water if you can.

Decal solvents, on the other hand, actually soften decals, to help them conform to surface contours and fine detail better.  If you are applying decals to a reasonably flat surface with little fine detail, you probably do not need solvent.

Neither setting nor solvent solutions, however, will make decals nestle down into the very small surface roughness of flat paints.  That is why we do a glosscoat (or just use gloss paint) under decals on flat painted surface

I haven't seen a decal not conquered with Solvaset. I've had some pretty thick decals and Solvaset comes thru every time.

I use Microsol most of the time, but do keep a bottle of Solvaset handy for decals that won't comply.

Sometimes it takes a few applications, but I haven't run across any that didn't eventually get in line with the Solvaset. It is definately a bit hotter than the Microsol and not as easy for me to find so I keep it in reserve for problem decals.

I was also going to mention Solvaset, Ernie beat me too it so mine is a me too post.

The problem with decal solvents is that they can be hard on the decal and damage it if you use too much, or touch the decal before the solvent has thoroughly evaporated.  It is safer to try setting solution first, then go to solvent only if the setting solution does not do the job. I keep both on my bench.  When I need the solvent I use it, but I save it for times I really need it.