SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

Problem making yellow decals

1446 views
20 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Problem making yellow decals
Posted by Bish on Monday, May 6, 2019 7:56 AM

Hopefully someone can help with this. I am trying to make some decals for my FV 432 build. I need to do the yellow callsign markings. I am useing an inkjet priner and experts choice decal paper. The decals look fine when printed, and i am giving them a couple of coats of Microscale decal film. But as soon as i try and use them, the yellow almost dissapears. I have tried useing a darker yellow but that doesn't work.

I get the same issue with the bridge plate. The grey circle does not show but the black number does.

Any ideas.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    September 2014
Posted by rooster513 on Monday, May 6, 2019 8:05 AM

Bish, I assume you are using the clear decal paper? From what I've read for yellow you need to use white decal paper (especially if it's going over a dark surface color). The obvious problem with this is having to trim all the white off the outline of the decal. Hopefully someone with more experience can help.

-Andy

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Monday, May 6, 2019 8:11 AM

Andy, yes, i am useing the clear, and i did wounder if that might be a soloution. It would be a tricky one to cut out, so hopefully some one might have an idea, otherwise, i will have to get trimming.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Towson MD
Posted by gregbale on Monday, May 6, 2019 8:21 AM

Unfortunately, you're 'up against it' for printing any light colors; if it's not done on white paper, the light part disappears, since inkjets can't print white ink.

Trimming close around the printed decal is the first option. My ususal go-to, when possible, is to print a color area surrounding the light markings that's close to the background color on the model: it makes close-trimming a little easier. (Even if it's not an exact color match--and that's a tough thing to get on home printers, I'll admit--it at least substantially minimizes the contrast that the viewer's eye would immediately be drawn to.)

If you're deft with a brush, it's not that hard to 'touch-up' paint around such markings...especially in larger scales. (Sometimes this needs to be done anyway, if the cut edge of the white decal paper is visible.) If circumstances allow, that's easier to do when the decal is still on the sheet, rather than after it's on the model. (Though sometimes there's no choice.)

Good luck!

[Just to show it is do-able...all the yellow lettering on this 1/72 Dauphin is printed with color surround matching the background, with no real 'touch up needed:

Hope it helps!]

Greg

George Lewis:

"Every time you correct me on my grammar I love you a little fewer."
 
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Monday, May 6, 2019 8:28 AM

Thank you Greg, never thought of that. One of the yellow decals is on a black background the other on a dark green. I'll give that a go.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Towson MD
Posted by gregbale on Monday, May 6, 2019 8:35 AM

Bish

Thank you Greg, never thought of that. One of the yellow decals is on a black background the other on a dark green. I'll give that a go.

Since you mentioned the FV 432, I thought that might be the case...so I thought the above photo might be a useful example. Big Smile

Look forward to seeing your 'wee beastie' when it's done!

Greg

George Lewis:

"Every time you correct me on my grammar I love you a little fewer."
 
  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Monday, May 6, 2019 9:03 AM

Gregb is on it. The black one is pretty straightforward.

Another possibility is to paint the marking on the model with white, then apply the decal over it. For instance do the numbers with Tamiya tape over white primer in a "good enough" way, paint, unmask, then decal.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Monday, May 6, 2019 9:26 AM

Thanks GM. I ahve already painted the model and the numbers themselves are to small to mask. My fall back would be to brush paint.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Monday, May 6, 2019 10:14 AM

How about yellow dry transfer letters and numbers onto the clear decal film? Find the correct style/font you need then arrange them on the decal film as needed.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Monday, May 6, 2019 10:25 AM

stikpusher

How about yellow dry transfer letters and numbers onto the clear decal film? Find the correct style/font you need then arrange them on the decal film as needed.

 

Its not the number's that are the issue. In the British army, each company is assigned a symbol, the call sign numbers go inside this. I can find the symbols for HQ, A, B and C coy's but not the Support Coy.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Monday, May 6, 2019 10:58 AM

US Army uses, or has used a similar system, with variations of course. Circle, Square, Triangle, Diamond on the hull or turret sides and rear. Just curious, but what is the Support Company symbol?

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Monday, May 6, 2019 11:11 AM

Its a D that looks like its rolled over. The other companies use that same 4 symbols, i believe it dates back to at least WW2.

I think i have cracked it. For some reason the black did not print out to well on the white paper, but i have gone ove that and the green useing the same colours i use don the vehicle. looks a bit rough but thats actually a bonus for this. Just letting it dry, then add some decal film and see how it goes.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Monday, May 6, 2019 11:39 AM

Sounds good Bish. The rough looking insignia sounds more realistic. I take it that the ”D” Supt. Co. symbol is flat side down?

You guys have been using the geometric shapes tank insignia the longest. I think it dates to between the Wars. US Army usage didn’t really start until post war.  

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Monday, May 6, 2019 11:48 AM

On our vehicles, the markings were applied useing stencils we had cut out ourselves and we used a sponge to apply the paint through the stencil. So being GRUNTs they were never going to be works of art. No, the flat side was up, so it looked like it had rolled forward.

I had not realised you guys had used them as well.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Monday, May 6, 2019 12:51 PM

Yes, the shapes were more commonly seen on overall OD AFVs before camo pattern painting was adopted in the 70s. And the style & size varied - sometimes outlines, sometime solid shapes.

I remember in the 80s before we started applying the markings on our camo painted vehicles, we used green “100 MPH” tape to make the symbols that we applied for field problems and removed afterwards. Later Battalion made stencils up and painted them on the vehicles.

 

 

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Tuesday, May 7, 2019 9:42 AM

gregbale

Unfortunately, you're 'up against it' for printing any light colors; if it's not done on white paper, the light part disappears, since inkjets can't print white ink.

Trimming close around the printed decal is the first option. My ususal go-to, when possible, is to print a color area surrounding the light markings that's close to the background color on the model: it makes close-trimming a little easier. (Even if it's not an exact color match--and that's a tough thing to get on home printers, I'll admit--it at least substantially minimizes the contrast that the viewer's eye would immediately be drawn to.)

If you're deft with a brush, it's not that hard to 'touch-up' paint around such markings...especially in larger scales. (Sometimes this needs to be done anyway, if the cut edge of the white decal paper is visible.) If circumstances allow, that's easier to do when the decal is still on the sheet, rather than after it's on the model. (Though sometimes there's no choice.)

Good luck!

[Just to show it is do-able...all the yellow lettering on this 1/72 Dauphin is printed with color surround matching the background, with no real 'touch up needed:

Hope it helps!]

 

In order to get as close as possible to the right background color, I make a sample of the paint I am using for the background, on a piece of scrap.  I then scan the color, and use the paint sampling function in my graphics program.  I then set that color as the background.

  I have never been able to calibrate a printer and scanner accurately enough so that the color is perfect, but it is always fairly close- close enough that one only needs to cut somewhat close to the image.  Black seems to be the exception.  I find black samples and prints accurately.  But with other background colors I have to do the paint sample thing.

 

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Tuesday, May 7, 2019 10:25 AM

How I did the "3".

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Thursday, May 9, 2019 2:10 PM

Guys, a big thank you for the advice and suggestions. The decals have come out a treat. They were a bit thick when i put then on, probably down to painting ove rthem to get a better match for the colur and then two layers of decal film. But once they were applied i gave them a dab of future and then a coat of gloss varnish to protect them ffrom the washes. They now look a lot better.

I do need to read up more on making my own decals. This did come out a bit rough, but for this build that worked in my favour. And they have really made the difference, without them this build would not have been the subject i had planned.

I am now starting the weathering and will get some pics up at the weekend.

Thanks again, i knew you guys would have the answer.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Towson MD
Posted by gregbale on Thursday, May 9, 2019 4:20 PM

Glad to hear everything worked out!

YesBeer

Greg

George Lewis:

"Every time you correct me on my grammar I love you a little fewer."
 
  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Thursday, May 9, 2019 5:42 PM

Glad it worked.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, May 19, 2019 10:25 AM

I have now finishe dthe build and wanted to update you guys on how it went. The decals came out great, though after the decal film and some paint they were a tad thick. The colour was also not a perfect match, but i hoped the weathering would deal with that.

Once weathered up, they came out really well. You can still see an edge on the right sid one, but i can live with that.

So all in all i was really pleased with these. Without those little yellow decals, the build would not have been what i had set out to build. So a huge thank you to you guys for the help and advice, its had really made a big differance.

I do need to learn how to print of better decals though, i have a few ideas which will need to be neater than these.

 

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.