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Bf-109 - Progress Report

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Bf-109 - Progress Report
Posted by Porkbits on Sunday, April 13, 2008 11:44 AM
The weather is slowly warming up here in New England, so I'm gonna tackle my Has Bf109 Hahn to get back in the modeling groove for the spring/summer. Yay! Looks like a relatively painless build.

So--this being my first German and WWII A/C build ever, I have a couple of questions about color (sorry if this thread should go in the Painting/Airbrushing forum).

1. I typically use MM enamels, but see that the Mess calls for RLM colors. What's everyone's favorite RLM brand? Is Floquil OK? I don't have much experience airbrushing acrylics, but don't mind trying something new.

2. When finished, should the Mess have a dead flat finish, or semi-gloss?

Thanks!

PB

  • Member since
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  • From: Akron ohio
Posted by phoenix7187 on Sunday, April 13, 2008 12:30 PM

As far as brand goes I think it's more personal perference and what's easy for you to obtain in your area. I use MM acrlyic mainly becasue I like the easy clean up and quick dry time. Many modelers do not like acrlyic paint and have lot of problems with it. I know MM carries a full line of RLM colors in both enamel and acrlyic. The finish on early new luftwaffe aircraft was a semi gloss up to F early G 109's. Later in the war even factory new was a flat  (but not a dead flat)finish. Paint back then was not very good and weathered very quickly, espcially in combat conditions. Finally I think as far as luftwaffe aircaft are concerned it more important to get the contrast right between the camo colors and molt more then the actual shade of the color in question. As long as the color is close and you have the dark and light's correct places who's to say it's worng.  

 

Stan
  • Member since
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  • From: Newnan, Ga
Posted by bostonbruins34 on Sunday, April 13, 2008 12:31 PM
I use Model Master enamels. Here's the list I used on my shopping trip to fill my stocks. http://www.xs4all.nl/~rhorta/jgrlm.htm. If you sit there and look at all the bottles you will think "God, all these greys, greens and browns look the same." There are very minute shades that some aircraft will call for like Grauviolett RLM 75. It looks like a different shade of grey, I can't see a touch of violet in it anywhere but when you spray it on your model over another grey you will see a big difference. All the ones I have used dry to a flat or matte finish...Look around the boards for preference of flat vs. semi-gloss finishes. There are MANY more qualified opinions than mine out there !!!Big Smile [:D]
The existence of flamethrowers is proof that someone, somewhere, said to himself, "I want to set those people over there on fire, but I don't feel like walking over there to do it." Group Build
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  • From: South Central Wisconsin
Posted by Daywalker on Sunday, April 13, 2008 1:01 PM

PB-

Here is another great site for RLM colors.  They give the RLM #, FS #, and MM and other brand equivalents.  Unfortunately, they haven't filled in the numbers for MM enamels but they do exist.  Hope it helps! Thumbs Up [tup]

IPMS Stockholm color charts

Frank 

 

  • Member since
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  • From: Newnan, Ga
Posted by bostonbruins34 on Sunday, April 13, 2008 1:32 PM
Daywalker, that is an AWESOME resource!!! I love how you can see the side-by-side comparison!!! Thanks!
The existence of flamethrowers is proof that someone, somewhere, said to himself, "I want to set those people over there on fire, but I don't feel like walking over there to do it." Group Build
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Posted by Porkbits on Sunday, April 13, 2008 2:41 PM
Wow, thanks for all the info, guys.

Because I'm familiar with MM enamels, I'll stick with them and use their RLM equivalents, per the very handy link you provided, BostonBruins. The instructions for the Mess call for RLM71 dark green, RLM70 black green, RLM02 gray, RLM04 yellow, RLM23 red, RLM65 light blue, and RLM66 black gray.

As for the final finish, guess I'll go flat, with a little bit of weathering (also something new for me).

PB
  • Member since
    June 2007
Posted by Porkbits on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 4:17 PM
Hey, guys:

Making my shopping list for the 109. Yay! However, I'm having a hard time finding MM enamel FS equivalents for two of the RLM colors:

--RLM70 - Black Green
--RLM65 - Light Blue

And of course, both colors figure prominently in the paint scheme (camo and underside).

Using the charts that BostonBruins and Daywalker provided and cross-referencing the FS colors, I either can't find the FS colors on the Testors web site, or the alternatives don't seem right (ie, not enough contrast in the camo scheme).

What MM enamels might you guys use for Black Green and Light Blue?

Thanks!!!

PB
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Reno, NV
Posted by espins1 on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 4:56 PM
 Daywalker wrote:

PB-

Here is another great site for RLM colors.  They give the RLM #, FS #, and MM and other brand equivalents.  Unfortunately, they haven't filled in the numbers for MM enamels but they do exist.  Hope it helps! Thumbs Up [tup]

IPMS Stockholm color charts

I live by those charts whenever I'm working on Luftwaffe projects.  It was way cool for someone to take the time and actually compile all that info.  Great stuff!  

Scott Espin - IPMS Reno High Rollers  Geeked My Reviews 

  • Member since
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Posted by philo426 on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 5:04 PM
Check out this 109! 
  • Member since
    June 2007
Posted by Porkbits on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 5:09 PM
Good stuff!

But I still don't have MM color matches for RLM Black Green and Light Blue.

Hm.

PB

PS--Ah, after more Web sleuthing, I see that RLM Black Green equivalent is Marine Corps Green...so what colors do you guys use for the bottom of your 109s? MM light gray?
  • Member since
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  • From: Newnan, Ga
Posted by bostonbruins34 on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 7:03 PM
I have both bottles for the RLM 70 schwarzgrun and RLM 65/78 hellblau. You will notice a few variants of the same damn color!!! The lichtblau (light blue) RLM 76 actually does a better job as an under wing and fuselage color and some kits go with this.... The hellblau is a bit darker. Testor/Model Master's site has them listed as item #'s 2080 (schwarzgrun) and 2087 hellblau or 2078 hellblau (go figure...they are both semi-gloss) 2086 is the lichtblau. I have the full upc code if you still need it!! Happy hunting.
The existence of flamethrowers is proof that someone, somewhere, said to himself, "I want to set those people over there on fire, but I don't feel like walking over there to do it." Group Build
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Posted by Porkbits on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 7:37 PM
 bostonbruins34 wrote:
I have both bottles for the RLM 70 schwarzgrun and RLM 65/78 hellblau. You will notice a few variants of the same damn color!!! The lichtblau (light blue) RLM 76 actually does a better job as an under wing and fuselage color and some kits go with this.... The hellblau is a bit darker. Testor/Model Master's site has them listed as item #'s 2080 (schwarzgrun) and 2087 hellblau or 2078 hellblau (go figure...they are both semi-gloss) 2086 is the lichtblau. I have the full upc code if you still need it!! Happy hunting.


Oh! Thanks! I didn't realize I could search the Testor's site using the German names. So I guess I'll use the Lichtblau, if that's the better under-wing color. Then I'll use Marine Corps Green (as a substitute for RLM Black Green) and Dark Green for the camo. Apparently, the prop blades are also Marine Corps Green (ie, Black Green).

Color is hard.

PB
  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Newnan, Ga
Posted by bostonbruins34 on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 8:24 PM
You may find the Marine Corp. green a bit too "green." The RLM color shades are pretty subtle....
The existence of flamethrowers is proof that someone, somewhere, said to himself, "I want to set those people over there on fire, but I don't feel like walking over there to do it." Group Build
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Posted by Porkbits on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 10:10 PM
Ah...I just found the schwarzgrun on Testors.com, so I'll ditch the Marine Corps Green (no offense to the Corps).

Thanks....

PB
  • Member since
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  • From: Lubbock, TX
Posted by MrDrummy on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 10:28 PM

Good luck finding all your colors, PB.

I know I'm late in showing up for the game, and I'd hate to compound the issue even more,  but I myself have always been a big fan of acrylics, especially brands like Gunze and Tamiya.  As far as ease of use and cleanup, I don't know how it could get better.  Buy you some big bottles of 91% isopropyl alcohol, and you're all done--it works for thinner, cleaner, whatever.  It dries pretty much on contact as well.

I know that Model Master Acryl stuff is pretty good as well, and they do have the full range of colors.  For some, thinning with distilled water works fine, but it always seems to dry too slow for me.  Tamiya and Gunze seem to have discontinued some of the RLM colors (much to my chagrin,) but you can still find some here and there on ebay.  Not long ago I bought a whole batch of RLM off of ebay.  Sometimes they pop up.

Here's one of mine done in Gunze RLM 02/71/65.  Prop is 70.  Interior is 66:

and a closer look:

 

 

I'll search around a little bit and see if I can find you some paint! 

-Justin
On the Bench: 1:48 Dragon Dr. 1 1:48 Trumpeter MiG-15 Fagot B Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
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Posted by Porkbits on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 10:35 PM
Thanks for the info, Drummy, and no need to go rummaging around your garage! Because I already own a majority of the colors needed for this kit in MM enamels, and it's such a small kit, I'll stick with enamels for now. Of course I'm open to trying acrylics for future kits, as I'm still a novice and in the trying-everything-to-see-what-works-for-me stage. I'm going to my LHS tomorrow--if they don't have the RLM enamels, I'll just order them online.

Acrylic vs enamel--another one of those Religious Wars that will never end. ;-)

PB

PS--Nice 109! One day I'll be able to do mottled camo like that.....maybe.
  • Member since
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  • From: Lubbock, TX
Posted by MrDrummy on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 10:47 PM

I know.  It's a war that won't ever end.  And I'm ok with that-- leaves more acrylic paints for me to buy up!!  Evil [}:)]

Just as far as I'm concerned, enamels have always been problematic for me.  They take awhile to dry, stink to high heaven, and have to be cleaned up with something else that stinks to high heaven.  You can't use an oil based wash over them (unless you throw down an acrylic overcoat first.)  It's been years since I've used them, and honestly have no desire to ever go back.  I still use the stuff for detail painting, as its longer drying time allows you to brush paint a bit smoother, in my opinion.

I've got some feelers out to some of my old buddies.  I'll see if I can drum up some acrylics--maybe for next time!  Give those enamels a try.  I'm in no way saying that you can't get amazing results with them.  Like you mentioned, do try different things before you settle!

And thanks for the kind words on the 109.  The smooth finishes I get from Gunze acrylics are one reason that I'm completely sold on the stuff!! 

-Justin
On the Bench: 1:48 Dragon Dr. 1 1:48 Trumpeter MiG-15 Fagot B Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
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Posted by Porkbits on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 10:51 PM
Sounds good! Maybe I'll try Gunze acrylics with one of the other German kits in my stash (Bf 110, Anteater, Henschel), just to see how it turns out.

PB
  • Member since
    June 2007
Posted by Porkbits on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 1:27 PM
OK, made a successful trip to my LHS, and got all the RLM colors along with CA glue, putty, micro set and micro sol, Tamiya tape, and dullcote. Hobby and computer stores are bad for my wallet. :-)

Only thing I don't have is a color for the tires. I didn't see a rubber or tire color in the MM enamels. So maybe I'll just use a flat black or dark gray.

Cheers,
PB
  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Newnan, Ga
Posted by bostonbruins34 on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 7:32 PM
I wouldn't recommend the testors "rubber" color...I tried it and it looks too brown, almost like cheap licorice. Took forever to dry and just wasn't very durable. I second that about hobby and computer stores being bad for the wallet...Everytime I turn around I'm bringing home a bigger hard drive (750GB) or more ram (who says 4 gigs are too much???) or whatever...At least the wife has no idea because it's hidden inside the computer and not taking up space in the closet where she can spot it!!!  Wink [;)]
The existence of flamethrowers is proof that someone, somewhere, said to himself, "I want to set those people over there on fire, but I don't feel like walking over there to do it." Group Build
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Posted by dcaponeII on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 7:55 PM
I for one stay away from acrylics.  I also noticed a tendancy in this thread to consider RLM65 and RLM 76 to be somewhat interchangible.  This is not the case so I thought I add that to the mix.  RLM 65 is an early color used for the underside until sometime in the 1943 time frame.  Then the switch was made to the RLM 76 underside color.  You need to check your references carefully to make sure you pick the right color.  The switch was made during the production run of the 190G so it's fairly safe to use RLM 65 on E's anf F's (except for Mediterrean theatre) and use RLM 76 for late G's and K's but there's that middle ground of the G-0's through G-6's where you have to check the specific aircraft to get the correct color.  When in doubt use one of Merrick's books.
  • Member since
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  • From: Newnan, Ga
Posted by bostonbruins34 on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 8:06 PM
I didn't realize that!! I figured it had to be something like that to explain the differences!! Thanks for the info.
The existence of flamethrowers is proof that someone, somewhere, said to himself, "I want to set those people over there on fire, but I don't feel like walking over there to do it." Group Build
  • Member since
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  • From: Lubbock, TX
Posted by MrDrummy on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 9:00 PM

 dcaponeII wrote:
RLM 65 is an early color used for the underside until sometime in the 1943 time frame.  Then the switch was made to the RLM 76 underside color.  You need to check your references carefully to make sure you pick the right color.  The switch was made during the production run of the 190G so it's fairly safe to use RLM 65 on E's anf F's (except for Mediterrean theatre) and use RLM 76 for late G's and K's but there's that middle ground of the G-0's through G-6's where you have to check the specific aircraft to get the correct color. 

I was under the impression that 65 was phased out sometime during the switch to the 109-F, instead of during the switch from the F to the G.  I've never seen an F with 65 undersurfaces either built as a model, or in a wartime photo.  As a matter of fact I've built the E-7 of Hptmn. Hermann Segatz, and it is shown in color photo as 74/75/76.  I've never seen a G with 65 undersurfaces either.  

I'm trying to argue here, but from my experience, (and I've spent most of my modeling career staring at photos, and reading books and research about 109's) it would seem that the switch came between the E and F.  YMMV 

-Justin
On the Bench: 1:48 Dragon Dr. 1 1:48 Trumpeter MiG-15 Fagot B Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
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Posted by Porkbits on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 10:30 PM
Alls I know is that the instructions for the Hase kit call for RLM65, so that's what I'm using. Well, MM Lichtblau, actually, so hope that's close enough.

What MM color do you (or would you) guys use for tires?

Thanks!

PB

PS--My first two-page thread! Yay?
  • Member since
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  • From: Lubbock, TX
Posted by MrDrummy on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 11:39 PM

What model of 109 is it?  An E?  F?

Tires wise, I usually go with the 66, but I add a bit of black to it, and usually drybrush with a darker brown to get some of that "rubbery" look to it. 

Here's a couple of shots of what the tires turn out like in the end for me.  Hopefully you can zoom in and look closely:

 

Mixing colors isn't usually too fun, but it can be rewarding once you get the hang of it!!

-Justin
On the Bench: 1:48 Dragon Dr. 1 1:48 Trumpeter MiG-15 Fagot B Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
  • Member since
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Posted by Porkbits on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 11:49 PM
Sorry! It's the Bf109E Hahn.

I'll try mixing a couple of darker, flat colors and see how it turns out....

PB
  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Lubbock, TX
Posted by MrDrummy on Thursday, April 17, 2008 12:05 AM

Yep.  Then the 65 down below makes total sense!  The model on the bottom of my last post is an E, and is finished in 02/71/65.  It's a cool color scheme, I think!!!

You'll have to let us know how yours turns out.  If you have any questions that I could maybe help with, let me know!  I'd be happy to help!

-Justin
On the Bench: 1:48 Dragon Dr. 1 1:48 Trumpeter MiG-15 Fagot B Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
  • Member since
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  • From: Yokosuka, Japan
Posted by luftwaffle on Thursday, April 17, 2008 8:55 AM
 MrDrummy wrote:

 dcaponeII wrote:
RLM 65 is an early color used for the underside until sometime in the 1943 time frame.  Then the switch was made to the RLM 76 underside color.  You need to check your references carefully to make sure you pick the right color.  The switch was made during the production run of the 190G so it's fairly safe to use RLM 65 on E's anf F's (except for Mediterrean theatre) and use RLM 76 for late G's and K's but there's that middle ground of the G-0's through G-6's where you have to check the specific aircraft to get the correct color. 

I was under the impression that 65 was phased out sometime during the switch to the 109-F, instead of during the switch from the F to the G.  I've never seen an F with 65 undersurfaces either built as a model, or in a wartime photo.  As a matter of fact I've built the E-7 of Hptmn. Hermann Segatz, and it is shown in color photo as 74/75/76.  I've never seen a G with 65 undersurfaces either.  

I'm trying to argue here, but from my experience, (and I've spent most of my modeling career staring at photos, and reading books and research about 109's) it would seem that the switch came between the E and F.  YMMV 

That is correct, Friedrichs were rolling off the assembly line with RLM 76 undersides, the switch from 65 to 76 was made in early '41.  RLM 78 was another underside color used for desert camo schemes, it is similar to 65 more "blue" than RLM 76. 

aka Mike, The Mikester My Website

"He has all the virtues I dislike and none of the vices I admire."   -Winston Churchill

  • Member since
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Posted by Porkbits on Thursday, April 17, 2008 3:08 PM
There are a LOT of 109 experts around these parts, so I'm a little apprehensive to post my build pics. BUT if it turns out OK, I will. :-)

At this point, I'll probably not bother with the PE canopy armor as I've never used PE and the parts look exceedingly hard to manipulate. As for the canopy itself--I've never masked canopy framing that teeny tiny, so I'm worried about screwing it up big time. We'll see how it goes.

Thanks,
PB
  • Member since
    December 2015
Posted by dcaponeII on Thursday, April 17, 2008 4:18 PM
I didn't check my references before answering.  You guys are right about the time frame.  I just wanted to make the point that the colors were not interchangable.  Thanks for the corrections.
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