How to make binoculars wider?

Most binocs have a cylindrical 'hinge' between the two barrels, usually just a friction-lock that will pivot open with very little pressure applied. If yours lack this, i. e., if your barrels are fixed together rigidly, I'm afraid you're SOL.

 Cheers

Hi;

       How Big are they? You will find that the Smaller Binocs are a unusual thing. There was back in my ChildHood(yeah,I had one of those too) Small Binoculars called (Opera Glasses). These were used in the V.I.P. Boxes to allow the (Uppercrust) To see the stage and performers Better.

       They were by definition Smaller specific use ("Extendable Glasses") For far viewing in an enclosed area. This may be what you got. The Larger Binoculars were used by the Navy and Army units for Surveillance Specifically. Then Hunters used and still use them to this day.

     What you can do. You can cut off the connectors, between Barrels rightat the barrels.Then take .080 Sheet and using the original part( stillattached) as a pattern, just elongate the part that connects to the Barrel. Or save your money and Buy your own that fits the width of your eyes!

You'll need two.

Put one lense on one eye and the other lense on the other eye.

     Then point in the same direction.......      

You forgot about the easy solution..just run over them with a truck and the lenses will seperate.

I never said it was a perfect solution, but then again I never really had any luck using them in the first place.

And I thought it was good that I didnt give any wise guy comments

I know about the hinge. They go as wide as possible but still a bit nerrow. I was hoping somebody in the know can have some mechanical solution, other then running over them in a truck or simillar unworkable "solution"

So maybe SOL

TB's solution is fine for those binoculars that have three different assemblies, with the hinge a seperate assembly. It is harder with the type (most common) where the hinge is built into each half and a long pin fitting through.    You need to make a plate at each end having three holes and have three pins.  Two do not need to be threaded, keep the original pin for the third, odd hole.  I personally would make those plates thicker, at least .125, and the holes in each plate need to be match drilled to assure proper alignment when assembled.  I'd make those plates in the form of an equalateral triangle, with the holes also equalateral.

When most binos are opened fully, there is a little 'stop step' where the two sides make contact. With care, you could possibly grind away a little bit of the step, allowing the swing to increase enough to work for you. Some binos have only one stop step, while others have two (as in this set).

This sounds reasonable. Mine has 2 stop steps, one short and one that is almost as long as the the axel between the two hinges. I'll try grinding them down. They are made of hard plastic so it is I think, doable.