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Ok I got some future yesturday (well the aussie varient anyways). I now have a canopy coated with it.
1. I know to allow overnight at least before masking it etc, any minimum time before glueing?
2. Does future allow you to use CA without the risk of fuming up the canopy? if not whats the best glue to use when attache clear parts?
Andrew
I've heard that Future will stop or lessen the effects of fogging from CA glue, but I rarely use it, so I can't help you there.
I use odorless CA for all my clear parts. The kind I get comes in a bottle with a gold label, but it says "odorless" or "safe for styrofoam", etc. on it. It is great for clear parts. It is more expensive than regular glue, but well worth it for me.
Jon.http://public.fotki.com/dawgfighter/
My adhesive of choice for canopies and clear parts is either Sobo white glue or Microclear.
Ross Martinek A little strangeness, now and then, is a good thing…
I can confirm that - CA doesn't fog surfaces covered with future, or at least the effect is dramatically reduced. Then, using small quantities of CA is handy for glueing canopies. Hope it helps, have a nice day
Pawel
All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!
www.vietnam.net.pl
I'm a white-glue guy for canopies...They don't need anything stronger, IMO.. Testor's Clear Parts cement works well also, as well as for making smaller windows and headlight lenses..
Ditto! Canopies don't need anything like CA to glue them in place.
So long folks!
I tried white glue (aquadhere, australia leading brand) on a 1/48 Ju88 I have but had serious problems getting a good stick, the canopies kept comming away. On the other side I tried CA on the futured canopy this morning ( cheapo academy test kit I'm building) and no fogging so unless I can figure out the white glue issue I'll go CA/future from now on.
Might try and track down some testors clear parts glue on the net.
Hi Andrew,
I've used MicroScale Kristal Kleer, which is similar to white glue but is used for making small windows and can be used for attaching clear parts.
Another local product is Helmar's Gemstone Glue (a craft glue) found in Lincraft and similar places. It's also similar to white glue and when dry has a little "give" and doesn't crack off. It dries a rtamslucent white though, and is not clear when dry.
Konigwolf13 I tried white glue (aquadhere, australia leading brand) on a 1/48 Ju88 I have but had serious problems getting a good stick, the canopies kept comming away.
I tried white glue (aquadhere, australia leading brand) on a 1/48 Ju88 I have but had serious problems getting a good stick, the canopies kept comming away.
Unless you're pulling on it, or missing the mating surfaces entirely, it shouldn't... All it has to do is hold the weight of the canopy... I mean, once dry, if you turn it upside-down and the canopy stays on, it's working... You might try roughing up the mating surfaces a bit first.. Gives the glue something to stick to..
Hans, It was the gondolar part with three different parts to glue together, first went on fine, the second two just didnt want to co-operate and the whole thing ended up comming apart and with all the stuffing around the top canopy came off as well. Probably would of been fine if it had of assembled fine but it was a PITA. It worked fine on a Academy 72scale F-86 I tried it on first.
Phil Thanks for the tip on the gemstone glue, will check out the kristal kleer next time I'm at the LHS see if they have it (or even heard of it they are shocking down here).
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