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Enamel paint jars gone bad?

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  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: NJ
Enamel paint jars gone bad?
Posted by JMart on Sunday, August 8, 2010 2:09 PM

Quick question... I use MM enamel paints; I just found a second jar that went bad. Went bad defined as: pigment separated and DRIED out at the bottom of the bottle, solvent congeled (like gelatin) on the top. No liquid interface exists anymore. No amount of mixing will help (all the contents of the bottle are solid or gel like semi-solid). added thinner, even lacquer thinner... I can get some of the pigment back into solution, but as a colloid, suspended particles. In other words, it does not "paint" (adhere) to surfaces. Both bottles were first opened about a couple years ago, used a handful of times, and always sealed properly. Kept at room temperature. Other MM enamel bottles look fine; the pigment DOES sediment with the top layer/solvent remains liquid and you can easily mix and use the paint.

any ideas what is causing this??? I never had the old testor enamel bottles go bad on me, even if stored for years... maybe a tad dry, but add some thinner and back in business...this one... nothing goes back into solution, stays like jello.  Angry

 

 

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: SE Pennsylvania
Posted by padakr on Sunday, August 8, 2010 4:03 PM

I've had the same thing happen.  I've also noticed that the Testors flat black is thinner than before and takes a lot of mixing.  I don't know why, but I suspect they have changed the formula somehow. 

Paul

  • Member since
    May 2008
  • From: Wherever the hunt takes me
Posted by Boba Fett on Sunday, August 8, 2010 5:16 PM

happens to me alot. could be leaks in the jars, but I don't know. It might be the pigment has seperated from the thinner, and then cured at the bottom of the jar. I always stir and mix my paints about every 3 months. never had trouble since I started thi shabit

  • Member since
    February 2003
Posted by Jim Barton on Thursday, August 12, 2010 3:48 PM

I have this problem (with both the Model Master and on occasion, the little square bottles), so for the most frequently used colors, I'll keep a back-up bottle handy. If the current bottle dries out, I can easily switch to the back-up, and then make it a point to buy a new back-up bottle as soon as possible.

"Whaddya mean 'Who's flying the plane?!' Nobody's flying the plane!"

Dre
  • Member since
    June 2007
  • From: here, not over there
Posted by Dre on Thursday, August 12, 2010 4:29 PM

I haven't had that congealed enamel thiing except in a few really old jars from the 80's...  but the flat black does seem to thicken up quickly.

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Neenah, WI
Posted by HawkeyeHobbies on Thursday, August 12, 2010 4:51 PM

Air in and solvent escaping out through the lid is the prime cause. Dirty threads on the jar and cap plus the sealing membrane on the underside of the lid is damaged or not being able to flush tight to seal the cap to the rim.

Clean your jars and lids before putting the cap back on. Replace worn dirty ones.

Gerald "Hawkeye" Voigt

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/

 

 

"Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench."

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Burlington,Iowa
Posted by hawkeye2an_L-Bird_fan on Thursday, August 12, 2010 5:09 PM

This hawkeye agrees with the other hawkeye. I have paints from the 70s that are still good (a yellow and a green that I only use for formation lights). I got in the habit of wiping the lid and threads after opening each time. I haven't opened my latest Flat Black, but now that you've said this I'll have to check it out, thanks.

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