Help a newbie???

It was common to mess up Vinyl track. Depends on tank if it has an upper track cover you can get away with a lot.

 If all the track was exposed the recommended method from the instructions was to staple the Track together with the staples forming a cross and than hide the the fixed track  somehow under the rollers.

As was said newer tracks are more forgiven and respond to a variety of glues but still takes to get a good looking fix.

Hey Coalman,

Welcome to the forum. Don't sweat the slip=ups, we've all been there.

Coalmann

First off my dumb ass tried to take the rubber tracks that are one peice and take one link out. Ok Np it looked kinda crappy but i figured it would end up on the return side so no one would really see it. I used testors cement(good idea or no?) Ive used it on everything and it works good it seems. I had a very very difficult time keeping the tracks pressed together to cement them firmly and they kept pulling apart. leaving me with half melted tabs to try n cement together. Also while doing this i managed to get cement on the top of one return guide and when i tried it another way i got cement on a road wheel.

Which M4A3 kit is it? 35122 or 35250 (or even perhaps 35251 with the 105mm)? If it's 35122, it has the "melt together" track where  you have to use a heated screwdriver or similar to flatten the joining pins. These tracks are all but impossible to glue together -  the vinyl actually seems to repel glue and paint.  If it's either of the latter two, it has the later style gluable tracks. Even the gluable tracks can be a pain if you need to cut out one link and re-join the track - as well as glue, you may use invisible thread (from the sewing section at your local supermarket or craft store) to strengthen the joint.

Either way, put a  shout out on the Armor forum, as someone will most likely have built one of these and used after-market tracks and may have a spare set of originals they may be willing to part with.

Don't worry man, we've all been there! 

I've actually just come back to modeling after ten years away. My builds are leagues ahead of where they were when I dropped the hobby, no question, but I still feel like I'm finding my feet.

Apart from the already spectacular advice given above, a few things you might want to consider...

- Patience is a virtue, and doubly so when it comes to modeling. Take your time, go slow, dry fit everything you possibly can. Plan, then plan again before you glue or paint anything. 

- If you haven't already, pick up some cyanoacrylate glue. You can find it at any hobby shop, and Hobby Lobby stocks it as well. I built the exact M4A3 you're building now many moons ago, and if I remember correctly, the liquid cements like Testors don't play well with those soft tracks. I think the instructions actually called for melting the tabs? Anyway, it's good to get multiple adhesives in your arsenal. A solvent (like Testors Liquid or more powerful stuff like Tenax 7R), a CA, good old white glue, etc.

- Don't let kids mess with your build! I've got two kids, and there' s a reason the workbench is in the garage!

- If you're just learning the ropes, don't start with your dream kit or your absolute favorite tank/plane/what-have-you. You'll stress yourself out trying to get it perfect. Circle toward it gradually as you gain experience. Think of the builds leading up to it as practice for the big show. Personally, my favorite plane is the P-47, and Tamiya's kit is supposed to be the gold standard. I haven't even bought one yet. I've got an old Monogram in the stash now, but I'm still working my way through other WWII aircraft first. 

- Above all, hang in there and treat every mishap as a learning opportunity.

Good luck, and let us see some pics of this Sherman!

Sorry about your situation,sounds like a tough modeling seesion.Practice...practice...Practice is what i would recommend.Pick up some cheap kits in a discount bin or flea market type place,and test yourself out and get comfortable handling stuff before you move on to something really nice.Buy FSM or some other mags,and follow the forums here.They have some how to videos here also.It just takes time to improve.

Man i really appreciate the advice guys thank you. First off my dumb ass tried to take the rubber tracks that are one peice and take one link out. Ok Np it looked kinda crappy but i figured it would end up on the return side so no one would really see it. I used testors cement(good idea or no?) Ive used it on everything and it works good it seems. I had a very very difficult time keeping the tracks pressed together to cement them firmly and they kept pulling apart. leaving me with half melted tabs to try n cement together. Also while doing this i managed to get cement on the top of one return guide and when i tried it another way i got cement on a road wheel.

on a side note my step daughter was sitting next to me and pulled off the commanders split hatch and broke off the antenna i had made pulling a melted sprue apart then cutting and gluing to the base. Ill try n get picts sometime today.

It dawns on me now that these are all proably easy to fix with some time and maybe a spare ordered track but i tihnk its kinda overwhelming me. you guys know what i mean?? I see like incredable 1/35 armor and i think man I want to do that! And im kinda lost on how to attack it the right way.

I tihnk it helps me that today I freakin finally understood, at least one way, to go about painting then weathering. Youtube is amazing.

Tell us or show us actually what went wrong ?? maybe we can help you fix it,or avoid the problem next time.

1st step:

Clean the model parts to remove the mold 'release' agent. This thin 'grease' will repel paint and even glue!

2nd step:

Read through the entire set of instructions. Plan your build to make detail painting and assembly easier for YOU!

3rd step:

Research. Search a thread here, someone else may have built the same model or even kit! 

4th step:

Build in sub assemblies, you do not have to follow the instructions page for page. DRY FIT EVERYTHING! before glue and take the time to correct parts that do not fit right.

*before paint the model will need to be cleaned again. Grease from your fingers will block paint adhesion. If you can mount the sub assembly on a stick so it can be painted without handling. I try not to handle painted parts with fingers, clean gloves will keep finger prints off the paint.

If you can learn 1 new technique each build before long you will have the skill to build a scale miniature, that is a plastic model taken to a higher level.

First rule: Ease up on yourself! We've all ruined a few kits on our way to our modeling destination. It is really ok, and you must regard these setbacks as the building blocks of your ultimate success. (Which brings me to Rule 2: Don't chuck that Sherman, as it can be used again for further technique experimentation!)

A lot of this might be somewhat overwhelming right now. But breaking the building process down in your mind as a series of little steps (assembly, paint, decal, weathering, final details) makes it less overwhelming.

Next, do not feel alone in a great ocean of uncertainty, as there are many great modelers here who will be happy to share their techniques and secrets with you.

Since you are building a tank currently, may I suggest you go to the Armor forum and take a peek at the "Tamiya Wespe" thread for starters- there's a lot of clear, concise description for how that modeler made a truly beautiful and authentic tank model.You will no doubt have questions, jot those down for future reference.

Next, may I suggest that you post a picture of your model so we can have a visual "square one" reference while we're discussing ways in which you can achieve your goals. Tell us exactly where you felt you were disappointed, and we can tackle one aspect at a time.