Revell Customer SUpport...

Is it the cockpit tub that is eat up?  Let me know what parts you need and I have them in the mail to you.  Tub, inst pnls, seats, etc.

Hello Rich!

I don't know about this one.  With no offense to you, I think I can see Revell's stance on this one.  As far as they know, their plastic behaves just as it's supposed to.  It has the proper rigidity and it behaves just as it's supposed to when glue or any other bonding agent is applied to it.  Just speaking in generalities, that's the very nature of what we, as model builders, do with models.  We glue them and we expect the plastic to react with predicatble characteristics.

However, it might be bordering on unfair to expect a plastic to do everything we demand of it.  I see that other parts did not turn funky when you tested them with the CA and the debonder.  I have no clue whatsoever as to why they reacted well in one instance but not the other.  But then I have to ask "What is the complete list of products that should be tested on the plastic?"  CA?  Debonder?  Brake cleaner?  Simple Green?  Battery acid?  Apple juice?  Just where does it start and, more importantly, where does it stop?  People use all sorts of products, both conventional and unconventional, on their models.  I think it's reasonable for us to assume some of the risk involved.

I felt it was great that Revell was able to send you the two fuselage halves for what I'm guessing was free.  But now they're supposed to replace even more parts for free, too?  I think it's also fair to meet them or any other company half way and pay the price.

I'm sorry the parts turned funky on you.  Lord knows we all hose up a part or two.  Been there.  Done that.

Eric

You brought up my main point.  We expect the plastic to react in a predictable manner.  Two major problems with the same kit, one leading to the other, is not something I have come to expect from Revell.  I have been building their kits for over 40 years.  And while I have had some other issues over the years, none have ever required me to contact Revell for replacement parts, until recently.

If I were using some product not designed for plastic kits, I would agree with you, but Great Planes CA and their Debonder are commonly used products.

I am not asking them to replace the entire kit, I just wanted the cockpit parts replaced.   They were damaged as a result of having to remove them from a defective fuselage half.  And no, I had not dry fit the two fuselage halves before putting in the cockpit.  I usually only do the dry fit after installing all of the internal components.  I have noticed that the fit can change after installing interior components so doing it before hand is a bit f a waste of time.

I gotta agree with EC. It was your choice of using CA and Debonder, not  Revell's plastic formula. Plastic model kits are designed to be built with plastic model cements. The only time kit makers recommend using another type of glue is when joining dissimilar materials. I think they covered their side fair enough.

Just a thought, but it does make sense to test fit fuselage halves early on before any gluing to check for warpage or any other fit issues. I always do.

I agree about the dry fitting.  Up until now, I only did it once the internals were in there.  I'm not saying that Revell is bad, but I have never had this many problems with one kit before.  For giggles, I took a piece of the unmelted parts from the cockpit and put some debonder on it.  I noticed something really odd.  In areas where it touched paint, it melted, other areas didn't.  I just got through sending an email to Revell asking if they had ever seen this before.

stikpusher

I gotta agree with EC. It was your choice of using CA and Debonder, not  Revell's plastic formula. Plastic model kits are designed to be built with plastic model cements. The only time kit makers recommend using another type of glue is when joining dissimilar materials. I think they covered their side fair enough.

Just a thought, but it does make sense to test fit fuselage halves early on before any gluing to check for warpage or any other fit issues. I always do.

Interesting...  bare plastic did not have the reaction, but the painted plastic did? So logically, the paint adds another bit of chemistry to the reaction that kills the plastic?

stikpusher

Interesting...  bare plastic did not have the reaction, but the painted plastic did? So logically, the paint adds another bit of chemistry to the reaction that kills the plastic?

I'll tell you one thing, no matter what the situation is, this one is sure a head-scratcher!  I don't think I've ever heard of a case like this before and I certainly never would have thought it would happen if I had been using debonder and paint.

Eric

Most debonders for CA use acetone(which is know to eat the plastic used for models), hence why you need to use it sparingly. Ditto for nail-polish remover which an also double as a debonder. 

Better option would have been to put the glued parts into the freezer for a day or two as the cold will shrink the glue and thus make it easier to break off/separate.

I an see why Revell wants you to charge.

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I haven’t seen this before either.  I have seen Debonder take off some enamel paint.  Most notably a mess with some MM Green Zinc Chromate enamel, but this is odder than heII.   I am going to try it on a piece of sprue from my Revell F-4G and see what happens.

Rich

echolmberg

 

stikpusher:

 

Interesting...  bare plastic did not have the reaction, but the painted plastic did? So logically, the paint adds another bit of chemistry to the reaction that kills the plastic?

 

 

I'll tell you one thing, no matter what the situation is, this one is sure a head-scratcher!  I don't think I've ever heard of a case like this before and I certainly never would have thought it would happen if I had been using debonder and paint.

Eric

I know what acetone can do to plastic, which is why I use it very sparingly, with an old and thoroughly cleaned brush.  I drop one drop on the area and use the brush to get it where I want it.  I use CA gl;ue in certain circumstances.  If I have a piece that is giving me problems staying in position with regular glue, or if I want to be able to remove it later, without bad damage (normally anyways...).  In this case I had both issues.  The tub wasn't fitting quite right into the fuselage half.  The fuselage half was slightly bent and I had to hold both in place while gluing.  If I had tried it with normal glue, it would have been a huge mess.  Which is what I ended up with anyways.  So I used the CA because it was easy to tack up and cement with it and some accelerator.

Rich

Mad-Modeler

Most debonders for CA use acetone(which is know to eat the plastic used for models), hence why you need to use it sparingly. Ditto for nail-polish remover which an also double as a debonder. 

Better option would have been to put the glued parts into the freezer for a day or two as the cold will shrink the glue and thus make it easier to break off/separate.

I an see why Revell wants you to charge.

Now the next question, was the paint you used acrylic or enamel?

Enamel.

stikpusher

Now the next question, was the paint you used acrylic or enamel?