Recommendations for starter materials/tools

Also, go to this link:

http://www.swannysmodels.com/Tools.html

lots of tip articles here including basic modeling tools.

You will probably want to save swannysmodels to your favorites.

I just got back into modeling so in addition to others here's my feedback.

I am sold on model masters acyrlic.  Clean up with water and thin with water for airbrushes.  Paints are sometimes thin for brush painting but if you prime everything, should have no problems.  Fume issue especially nice if you will be airbrushing ever. You can get krylon spray paint for primer use at wal-mart cheap.  I haven't used this yet but many people on the forum recommend it for cost-effective primer.

If you're building something with window, get a bottle of future.  You just dip the windows in it (make sure it doesn't accumulate on edges) and you will be most pleased with the results.  Future also has many other uses, just google it.  Note;  future changed it's logo so look for a bottle that says in smaller writing something about "with future shine". 

Decal solvent and setter.

other stuff:  tweezers, GREAT LIGHTING, and toothpickss

I like testor's spray dull cote.  I also decant a little into a bottle for brush brushing.

If you get an airbrush invest in a cleaning pot.  This will make life sooo much easier.

If you have a hobbly lobby near you, check out their weekly on-line adds.  They periodically have good discounts on models, models supplies, etc.  Also once in a while they'll have a 40% off any item coupon that I'll use for more expensive items.  Otherwise try hobbylinc.  Some of their inventory is limited but they have good prices and very good shipping costs.  You can also look on FSM to find local hobby shows that usually have great deals on model kits.

Also I find tack cloth to be very useful (it picks up dust/debris from sanding.  Hobby lobby sells too types of tack cloth:  Expensive and cheap.  Go with the cheap.

Although cheap is great, I'm always sure to pay a little more and make sure I buy some items to support my local hobby store as well.  I know it sounds like subsidation but I value it for the community.

Although others like painters blue tape for masking, I had it tear off my decals despite all the future, decal solvent and dull cote.  Green frog tape (in painting section walmart) has had good reviews on the forum although it is more expensive.

Good luck

Don't know where you are located but if you have a Harbor Freight Tools near you, you can pick up tweezer, pick, and file sets for a affordable price, specially when they go on sale. They also have a Chinese copy of the Badger AB for under $15. Not the best but it will do if you are in a budget.

Regarding the Tamiya tape, Benjamin Moore Paints sell a brand called Sure Tape that is supposed to be identical to Tamiya's at a fraction of the cost.

-Model Master Liquid Cement. (May also be labeled Testors, same company) Very easy to use with metal tip applicator, good quality cement and last to the last drop. It is more of a thin gel then a liquid. Highly recommended. 

-Super Glue. I hear the Gorilla brand is the best but you can use most anything.

-Xacto knife(+ blades). I like the rubber handle ones as they are not hard on the hands.

-Tamiya Tape. Leaves no residue and forms a tight bond preventing most paint from getting underneath (better then all other brands).

- Wire cutters with the one flat side. Found in some electronic stores and Radio Shack/The Source. A better version would be Xuron bran cutters (I like the super fine point one) but they are not cheap.

-Three Grit Sanding Stick. Makes it very easy to sand out rough spots (dip in water before and during use to reduce mess and extend life of stick). You can also buy sanding paper sheets from Testors or any automoative supply store (wet sanding paper I suggest), though I forget the best finishing grit.

-Nylon Brushes for starting off. Cheap flat edge brushes that have a smooth look to them. As you lean how to clean, maintain and use them you can move up to more high quality (and expensive) brushes.

-Paint Tray or bottle caps (cleaned). 

-Paint.

*Humbrol Enemal I find to be the best for hand brushing but between the paint and the mineral spirits used to thin / clean it there a lot of fumes which I don't like.

*Model Master Acrylic is the second best but without the fumes and cleans up with soapy water (and thins with water).

*Tamiya Acrylic is the hardest (I wouldn't say worst) for hand painting. Don't touch with a brush until you are very experience and willing to cry for a while.

-Putty. Having gotten back into model building myself I'm revisiting putty myself. What I can say is that the Testors Contour Putty is a very fast drying putty that you can thin/extend work time with isopropal alcohol. Once cured you can shave excess off with a hobby knife and it is unaffected by water (eg, wet sanding). Next up to try (for me) is Tamiya Epoxy Putty.

Everything else is optional. I suggest picking up stuff as you find a need for it.

I use a large amount of paper toweling when I am painting- especially with my airbrush.  I also keep a supply of Q-tips, and the round, double-pointed toothpicks.

Someone else mentioned X-acto blades.  Get them in quantity.  They dull rapidly and dull ones can screw up things.  You can buy either real X-acto or the cheaper copies in either fifty or one hundred blade packages and that is the most economical way to get them.

Most folks use CA glue for at least some model work, but CA, once opened,  has a limited shelf life.  Therefore I buy it in the smallest size and just buy several packages at a time.

I use automotive glazing putty (used to be called spot putty).  But, do it yourself car work is becoming less popular, so smaller sizes are harder to get, one now has to buy it in giant tubes and again shelf life can be an issue, though I still think I am money ahead compared to buying stuff at hobby shop.  Auto putty is very much like the hobby shop tube putties.

 I saw your post and remembered that there was an issue of FSM that dealt with almost that exact question.  I think it was the November 2010 issue that had a breakdown of suggested model tools.  I believe it is listed as "modeling essentials".  You can still get the back-issue from FSM.  Good luck!

Jeff,

Not sure how I forgot this, but the #1 modeler's friend (at least from what I can see) is an Xacto knife and #11 blades.

Dave

Many of the kits today have photoetch.  Do yourself a big, big favor and get a good quality PE bender.  Do a search for "The Bug" and you wont be disappointed.  You will also want a good quality pair of long handled tweezers for the small PE parts. 

Hi Jeff,

If by 'getting ramped back up' you mean that you've been away from the hobby, welcome back.

Yes, a good pair of sprue cutters is handy; I get mine from Radio Shack (called wire nippers or something similar) and a company called Xuron...they make small tools for the hobbyist. If you haven't visited their website, Micro-Mark has a lot of useful products. Similarly, a good set of tweezers has served me well. I have a variety, and they're from all different manufacturers. I haven't spent a ton on these. Likewise with brushes, at least half of mine are from Testors. Basic, solid brushes. I also visit craft supply stores like Michaels or A.C. Moore and get a pack of 4-6 brushes, spending roughly $7-12. I haven't yet seen a need to spend more than $3 on a brush. I've found that if you go below that price range, though, the real cheap ones will shed and aren't worth the money.

I haven't used putty for years, because I mainly use gap-filling super glue (cyanoacrylate, or CA). It's thick, fills gaps (up to a certain width), bonds pieces together (fast), and works with just about any material. But that's just me; I also have both Testors liquid cement in the black plastic bottle and in the clear glass bottle with the brush. The stuff in the glass bottle with the brush is just like water, and you just touch the brush to the mating point of two pieces. It will get into seams quick and begin the chemical bonding almost immediately, but doesn't set up as fast as CA. The glue in the black bottle is a little slower.

But back to the fillers, if you decide you'd like to go that route. I've used squadron white putty in the past, and found it to be acceptable, and it can be thinned with isopropal alcohol. There are almost as many theories on fillers as there are modelers, so maybe someone else will give their two cents. There's also Tools, Techniques, and Reference Materials discussion within these forums that may answer some questions for you. Look around, a wealth of info has been posted (that doesn't mean you can't ask questions, tho...).

Above all, enjoy. There are good builders and good people here, and it seems we're constantly learning something.

Dave

EDIT: I forgot about your Tamiya tapes question. I haven't used it, but have heard nothing but good things about it. 3M blue painter's tape and something called Parafilm M have worked for me, but again there are many theories on masking......I and some others have even used a product called Bare Metal Foil.