bare minimum supplies needed for first build

You're set---go for it and then post pics...hurry...

Chazzer

   IMHO The most important thing is a bench with good light.  A hands-free self standing magnifying glass preferably with alligator clips and the list goes on and on. It all depends on what you want to spend. I find great deals at shops like Harbor freight. If you can afford it get an airbrush. I think that experience needs to be built up, you develop your own style and as time goes on you discover just what you need. Good luck and welcome to the hobby.

 

Chazzer

Chazzer

   IMHO The most important thing is a bench with good light.  A hands-free self standing magnifying glass preferably with alligator clips and the list goes on and on. It all depends on what you want to spend. I find great deals at shops like Harbor freight. If you can afford it get an airbrush. I think that experience needs to be built up, you develop your own style and as time goes on you discover just what you need. Good luck and welcome to the hobby.

 

Chazzer

this screen is one of the best tools you have

you have access to thousands of other modelers, especially if you take a look around at models that might not be "what you build",,,,,,,take a look at the ship guys when you get ready to do your first antenna wire, those guys do rigging lines without any connections showing,,,,,,if you can see how they do all those lines in 1/700 without any glue blobs, you can then go on and do one wire from tail to antenna mast,,,,,,,same deal if you want a "great" gloss coat, take a look at  some car modeler's techniques,,,,,,"real looking" aircraft tires?, look at some tank builder's truck tires

just don't get hung up with your first few kits into thinking you HAVE to build as well as any one certain modeler,,,,,,let your skills develop at their own pace, most of what you see done by someone on here or any other website is the result of practice, the fun part is that the practice is the hobby, even mistakes help you learn, so don't be discouraged by those mistakes, just go ahead and make them

ask these people, and you'll get more answers and tips than you can probably use, lol,,,,but, you always get an answer that worked for someone at least once

welcome to the hobby

Rex

Dito,

It will work fine cleaning your brushes too.

Richard

Will mineral spirits work as a brush cleaner also?

If it thins it, it'll clean it...

kermit

...and a bottle of mineral spirit (maybe a buck at the home depot store?) to thin down your enamels.

Will mineral spirits work as a brush cleaner also?

In an earlier post someone helped me understand that I was confusing paint thinner with brush cleaner.  

Thanks for the help.

I am not the most patient person, but so far have been able to take my time

That first $50 you spent may look like alot but the supplies you got will help you build more than the two models you have planned. That, statistically brings down the costs considerably in your mind.

Also the paints you will require will be a bit of an expense at first but the same story applies here. You can build several models with that tiny jar of paint

the only thing in my opinion that wou will really really need to add to that first few things is a roll of masking tape (i started out with normal clear sticky tape....DONT do that as you will have issues with tape breaking/ leaving residue and paint bleeding underneath) and a bottle of mineral spirit (maybe a buck at the home depot store?) to thin down your enamels.

The one thing i dont really agree with sofar is the layers of paint. Testors paint straight out of the jar is far too thick and will inevitably give you brushmarks. For a smooth finish you will have to thin it down, up to 50% and use multiple coats to get a smooth brush finish. I really try to advocate this to every new builder. 

Takes you longer since youll have to wait between applying the layers of paint but the result will be worth your effort. Multiple Thin Coats!

But, to contradict myself....

Didnt we all start out just breaking parts off the sprues, using far too much glue and too little patience building our first models? 

Isnt having fun the most important thing in the hobby? Even building that way we all had fun the first few times before we started to get more serious about accuracy and sanding seams and such. 

Maybe having fun,  is the most important and neccessary item on the list?

Richard

Absolutely!  May need to apply more than once but works without any issues that I've seen.

mgh

What is the BARE minimum needed to start off with?

I have:

"Building and Detailing Model Aircraft" is on the way.

So I am already into this well over $50, no paint, and have not put glue on plastic yet!  What am I missing that I must have to begin my first build?

Thanks

 

The booklet was the best money spent, Pat (Hawkey) not only helps you along on several builds but gives you a list of must have (and indulgence tools) for starting out.  Good luck and I'm excited for you.

Doh!

That makes sense.  So I would also use the thinner when I was ready to do a paint wash?

The testors model master THINNER is just that, thinner.  Use it to keep the brush flowing and the paint from drying out.  If I am painting more than a minute I find I need to dip the brush in thinner to get the gunky paint off and keep a smooth flow.

To CLEAN the brush, use brush cleaner, just get a 1qt can from home depot in their paint section.  Its aptly named, brush cleaner.  If you are brushing on LAQUER dull or gloss coats, then use lacquer cleaner.

I would not go overboard on buying stuff.  Build these planes, see if its fun and then note what you want to change next time.  More work on the fit and smoothness?  Better seams and gaps?  Better paint job? Decal job etc.....  Then from there, buy the tools.

most of us have stuff acquired over many years so its hard to say whats really really needed.  I stopped building when I went into the military for the last 10yrs but recently started again.  Many paints were dried out, and still many more were good to go with some thinner and shaking.  I quickly noted how many cool new tools and helpful things have come out on the market and have been experimenting.

I like:

Tamiya THIN liquid cement in the bottle (youtube how to use it)

Zap-A-Gap green, gap filling slow super glue.

Tamiya brand putty (much smoother to put on than my tried and true testors)

Model Master enamel paints in the military color variations.

I also use scalpel blades #23 #11 #15 for many of my works.  they dull very fast but they are very sharp and I can use them sideways to scrape seams of fuselages and raised areas to smooth things out.  I ebay scalpel blade 100 packs often as I run out fast. Most fit in the larger Xacto handles.

Dont gunk up the outside or lip of the paint bottle, clean it up and get a good seal.  Wont dry out that way

So, the advice I will give anyone trying something new is, if you are an FSM subscriber, collect some basic articles on what you want to do. In your case, put together a collection of articles about aircraft construction and painting. You said you are getting the Building and Displaying book, which is good. These articles will give you many ideas about what to get for various things you want to do, as well as showing different methods you can try. Ultimately, it is a "learn as you go" hobby. Start off simple and as you try new things, you will need to get new supplies.

And if you are not an FSM subscriber, I reccomend it or a similar magazine. Youtube also has some good videos and there are some excellent websites that have been put together to show basic model methods.

Sorry this isn't very specific, but everyone does things differently and the best way to start is pick a method that sounds best to you!

I have Testors contour putty, but have not opened it yet.  I have a bottle of the pink label glue, but not the black label.

Tried some cheap acrylic paint the wife had laying around, and the colors are OK, but very hard to lay down evenly.  I really had hopped to use acrylic, just for the ease of clean up.

Also tried a little bit of dry brushing to try to bring out some detail.  Did not have a decent flat brush to use, but I am excited at the meager results I had.

What can I use for thinner/cleaner for enamel paint?  Seems weird to have those tiny little bottles of Testors thinner. 

Thanks for the feedback, it is much appreciated.

What putty are you using?

I use Testor's white and Bonda Red Glazing putties, m'self... THe Bondo can be thinned with liquid cement (Testor's Pink Label) and the Testor's White (Grey tube) thins with rubbing alcohol. Thinning putty goes a long way in reducing sanding times..  Always wet-sand, putty, BTW... The sandpaper or films will last longer,  clog less, cut better, and leave few sandscratches behind..

For glues, I prefer Testor's Liquid Cement in the pink-label bottle, Testor's Model Master Liquid Cement in the black bottle w/ needle applicator, and some "five tubes in the pack for 1/99"-type CA glue... Apply the Testor's Pink with a brush, preferably about a "0", and don't sweat it drying on the brush.  It evaporates too fast for that.  The brush in the cap is about useless...  Gluing with it is a tricky technique at first, due to the capillary action of the cement, for some practice is necessary.. Best way is to hold the parts together, then touch the brushfull of glue to joint, then press it together hard.  A few seconds of holding, and it's done.   But watch out for panel lines near you fingers.. The glue will run down those and can get onto your fingers, and poof! Instant glue-print..

The black-label Testor's is just as good, but is thicker, and will give you more working time... Works best for long joints like fuselage and wing-halves..  Another gling tip: Give each surface a quick swipe or three with some sandpaper.. Just enough to take the shine off.. The glue will set faster...

Lotta gys Poo-Poo them, but I like the Testor's Sanding films too.. Used them for over 25 years..A variety of grits come in the pack... 

If you plan on brush-painting the entire model, stay away from Tamiya bottles.. They hate being brushed on...  Testor's makes a set of camouflage colors, and a set specifically for aircraft... These have the basic colors you'll need, but you'll still have to pick up a few bottles, along with some clear Dullcoat and Glosscoat rattle cans...  I know I sound like an ad for Testor's, but the paints, especially their Model Master lines of enamels and acrylics, and their rattle-cans, are really good paints..  I've used Testor's on every model I've built, one place or another, since 1968 or so...

Get those cutters and a good, pointed tweezers, too... And those brushes, you'll need a good flat too, for painting large areas.. The rounds don't work so well there, and keep in mind that rounds are VERY important, since what you're paying for is the brush point.. Take care of it... Lick it back to a point when you've finished cleaning it, and put the tube back on.. Don't leave brushes standing tin the thinner bottle either.. They get a curve in them that you'll never get rid of...

Get extra blades for that knife (X-Acto or Excel) as well.. The only thing will slice your thumb open quicker than a sharp blade is dull one...  I keep a few packs of No. 11 blades on hand all the time.. They're cheap (Excel is the brand I use, rather than X-Acto), so change them.. Old ones can used for scribing and scraping though, so don't toss all of them..

Also, in "How To" section of the site, at the top of this page, there're two sections really worth looking at.. The first is "Reader Tips", the other is the "Glossary"... Use 'em...

Keep us informed as to your progress with your builds!

Not to hijack the thread, but will that testors dullcoat make a flat finish if sprayed over future?

What you have will definitely get you started. Later I would add a pair of sprue cutters for removing parts from the sprue and a pair of tweezers. And if you're on a budget, you can skip the sanding sticks and pick up some sanding boards in the cosmetics section of your local drug store. They're cheaper, do the same job and are available in a range of grits.

I have a Monogram AD-6 Skyraider kit, and a Revell P-47 coming.  Planning on starting on the Revell kit.

Thanks for the help here.

Which models did you get? A pair of clamping tweezers might be useful for small pieces. As far as paint, enamels are easier to use, spray paint is handy for large areas. Like others have said, use this forum. I've learned a lot just lurking around here and the folks here will definitely help and inspire you. Throw some pics up when you get going and have some fun.

 Mike

Yes, enamel paint tends to brush better. At least in the 40+ years I have been painting models... Acrylics, snuggle down "tighter",  so to speak, (and often require a second coat, negating that advantage) but enamels are easier to hand brush for the beginner.

Seems like I read somewhere (I don't remember where) that the enamel paint would lay down smoother when brushing larger areas.  Any opinions on that?

Thanks for the help.

   IMHO The most important thing is a bench with good light.  A hands-free self standing magnifying glass preferably with alligator clips and the list goes on and on. It all depends on what you want to spend. I find great deals at shops like Harbor freight. If you can afford it get an airbrush. I think that experience needs to be built up, you develop your own style and as time goes on you discover just what you need. Good luck and welcome to the hobby.

Chazzer

It sounds like you just about have the bare minimum.  Additionally from around the house you'll want some toothpicks and some masking tape, a roll of toilet paper or paper towels a couple of extra jars for spare parts, clothespins, etc.  For paints, I like model master acyrlic, you can can clean your brushes with water instead of paint thinner.  Unfortunately, acyrlics cost more than the little tiny jars of testors enamel paint you're likely going to start with to keep costs down.

 If you plan on building more you'll want to get some more stuff. 

If you are going to buy more because you are modeling more, your next set of purchases should be:

- a hobby knife with spare blades

-A $5 set  of brushes from Hobby Lobby or online

-Sanding sticks from Hobby Lobby or online

-Superglue and liquid plastic cement glue

-If your building military models a can of testor's dullcote spray.

Next stage after that get some good modeling tape like tamiya, some future floor wax (it has lots of uses), and some decal solvent/set.  If you really like the hobby next stop is an airbrush.

A good, cheap place for both models and supplies with awesome shipping costs is hobbylinc.com

Good Luck!