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noob seams question

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mgh
  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Utah County, Utah
noob seams question
Posted by mgh on Thursday, May 12, 2011 7:47 PM

Hi All,

I'm only into my second model, a Testor's P-47.  There are 2 tanks on the wings, very simple shape.  One I was able to sand down part of the seam, and it disappeared.  Way cool!  The other did not, I suspect the issue was that I did not get glue all the way around the seam, so it did not "weld".  Would that make sense?

Also, I was only able to sand down the ends.  To sand down the middle, I would have also sanded off detail.  Not cool.

So how do you deal with those small hard to reach places when working with seams?  

Thanks

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, May 13, 2011 9:10 AM

One problem is, there were several types of tanks in use, some had prominent seams, others did not.  If this is a seamless tank, then yes it can be a lot of work sanding the seam without destroying the detail, but it is something you learn from practice. 

There is no good way to acquire skills like that other than doing the job enough times.  One thought is until you gain experience, leave off tanks, ordnance, etc.  Planes parked on the ramp are usually pretty bare.

Another key- get the fit as good as possible between parts before you apply glue/cement/solvent.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    March 2011
  • From: Dayton OH / Nwprt Beach CA
Posted by Remy130 on Saturday, May 14, 2011 12:44 AM

I use #23 scalpel blades in my xacto knife.  they are curved and you can get a good slice in odd areas.

I also use THIN tamiya liquid cement, it creeps into crevices and melts that weld nice, then press the parts together wtih a lot of force to push extra melted plastic out.  then shave that off after a day.

 

like don said, some parts DO have seams.  Like some tire treads on tanks, I shaved off and sanded the wheels nicely..........then found out, the seams are SUPPOSED to be there.  DOH!

Looking for Ralph, who owned the hobby shop in Lake Forest CA 80s-90s.

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Washington, DC
Posted by TomZ2 on Saturday, May 14, 2011 2:22 AM

Yep, a #23 scalpel blade in an X-acto knife works. I used that technique on the Glencoe re-issue of the Walt Disney’s Man in Space space station. (The Strombecker moulds had been allowed to deteriorate.) I put in a ridiculous number of hours scraping that gnarly hull smooth.

Occasional factual, grammatical, or spelling variations are inherent to this thesis and should not be considered as defects, as they enhance the individuality and character of this document.

mgh
  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Utah County, Utah
Posted by mgh on Saturday, May 14, 2011 8:57 AM

Maybe "seams" was not the best word to use.  This was definitely one of my own making!  I will know now to keep an eye out for seams that belong there.

What I remember from way back in the day, was the tube cement being a stringy sticky mess.  This time I tried my first bottle of glue.  It is testors, and very thin, which I like, but very quick drying.  I have to be quick fitting the part after applying the glue.  I am not sure I can apply glue all the way around the fuselage and get it fitted in time for it to weld all around.  

Thanks for all the help.

  • Member since
    July 2010
Posted by jbrady on Saturday, May 14, 2011 11:06 AM

Fit the parts together before you apply glue. That is, get the best fit you can and brush the glue on while holding, clamping, or whatever method you use. The glue will flow into the seam and weld it together. A simple rubbing with 600 grit paper will get rid of excess glue.

   

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