10 x 15 isn't much... But it's more than I got, so I'll tell what I got..
My work-bench is a drawing table I got at Hobby Lobby, size's about 42" x 30" , has six storage drawers, with room underneath for WIPs or more storage. It's aout 80.00 bucks, but you can use their 40% off coupon to buy it.. Before that, I used a TV Tray...
I added outlets to the wall behind, have a total of 16, with two power strips.
I have storage boxs ranging from the little wall-mounted "screw bin" type to the palstic 12" x 14" x 2 1/2 " 3-drawer-sets... I also keep my desk in there with my computer, and use the computer to pull up reference pictures while I'm working. A simple turn of the head is all I need..
A large office-type floor mat which allows me to hear where the part I dropped went, as well as making it easy (er) to find..
A small chest of drawers to store various scratch-building material: Electronic parts, wires and rods, wood, styrene sheets, large paint cans, diorama materials, etc..
Shelving should be attached to the wall with the shelf-brackets... Avoid free-standing stuff since it has too big a "foot-print", in my humble opinion... I need that space under them for storage of kits... Put them on pallets though, to keep them off the damp floor (or open them and remove the decals and store those separately in a "baggie catalog" (a three-ring binder with zip-lock bags inserted instead of loose-leaf paper. Make sure you label the bags so you know what kit the decals came from). You don't need large, factory-type pallets, just some plywood and old paint-cans...
BTW, you don't need high-dollar finished shelves... Cutting your own from 1/2" or 3/4"(3/8s" is too flimsy) plywood... Also allows you to cut shelves as much as eight-feet long and a foot wide... That's my prefered size anyway.. I use finished shelving in the living room though... Wife made me do that, since I'm perfectly happy with raw wood...
Lights: I hung two four-foot shop lights for general lighting, and have two smaller fill-lights on the desk, with a flexible magnifying lamp as well.. Use "Cool White" florescents... Others will give off a slight greenish cast that will screw up you shading figure-faces, if you do that.. Or simply shut them off..
A also have a fan that I keep on the floor behind me... It keeps the fumes outta my face (not that they bother me, but CA can get a little intense sometimes), and it speeds flash-time for clear flats, and speeds drying time for finishes... Make sure it's off when you're painting though... I stick mine in the window for exhaust, but only when spraying metallics from rattle-cans... There's not enough over-spray from an airbrush to matter to me... If there IS a lot of overspray from your AB, then you're doing it wrong anyway...
Paint-booths... Some swear by them, some at them.. I'm in the latter crowd... If you're doing it right, you don't need it... Don't need respirators either... No, Nada, None, Zee-ro respirators will protect you from oxygen-displacing fumes or gases, unless you have an independent air-supply... If you're not clean-shaven, they won't seal, and unless you paint to the point that the room is visibly filled with suspended paint-particles, you don't need it.. If it IS then, again, you're doing it wrong... A "Lazy Susan"-type paint-stand is much more useful...
All in all, I think a bench big enough for two large 1/48 scale aircraft kits or three AFV kits in 1/35th to be worked on at the same time is a good size..