product "a" can be cleaned with product "b"

Future can be cleaned up and stripped with ammonia or any cleaning product containing ammonia..

Most acrylics (there ARE exceptions, like Vallajo) can be thinned with rubbing alcohol (or water and a small drop of dishwashing detergent. Don't shake that mix though, you'll get foam.) Also, if you don't feel comfortable, use the thinner made for the acrylic you've chosen.

White Vinegar is what I use for decal solvent. Add a little water first and test though..

Simple Green household cleaner is good for removing enamels, in most cases... Some paints are unaffected by it though.

I don`t know  of a "page" that lists everything you just asked about but I`m sure all has been answered in the forums at one time or another.

Future ...use windex with ammonia to remove/ thin

Tamiya acrylics....thin with 91-99% alcohol...doing it that way for years.

Pollyscale acrylics....distilled water

All manufacturers have their "recommended" thinners/cleaners but I rarely use them...you can always find a suitable, less expensive replacement. A bottle of Tamiya`s thinner, which is basically alcohol is 12 dollars /16 oz. and a bottle of alcohol is 3 bucks. I thin my Model Master paints with Home Depot laquer thinner...works great and it`s cheap. Basically, I use my nose to figure out what to thin my paints with...it`s worked well so far.

Oh, I`ve heard vinegar used as a decal setting solution but never personally tried it. The "Hammer" uses this method and could tell you more about it and everything else stated above.

Good luck,

Len

The white vinegar is what model railroaders used, one of 'em turned me on that when he noticed I was using Testor's Decal Set (Smell it and you'll know why)... he'd been using vinegar since the 50s...

You gotta use it full-strength on some decals, dilluted 3-1 on others... It's as much art as science, with a lot of experimenting.. Always test its ratio on a spare decal on the sheet you're gonna use...

There is a big difference between thinning and cleaning surfaces.  Once a paint is completely dry, whether it is acrylic or enamel, a mild soap and water does a good job and will not hurt the finish.  Usually, if you clean it reasonably fast, it will be fine on decals also, but it helps if decals have been overcoated.

Thinning and stripping are something else.

Thanks Len! I appreciate your post and I ask for anyone that hassomething newto post to this thread, too!!!

This is close to a start, I believe. Len may I use it as a start for a poster of my own? If I reach a level of relative coverage that would be attractive, I may try to post it on the forum for all to benefit from as newbies keep coming into our "sport"

Thanks also to Don and Hans for their valuable support and suggestions

Gimme MORE, MORE, MORE..........HELP expand the list and any similar subjects that could benefit from being in some type of a chart form for others to go to for quick answers to things you, or I, or many others can use someday.

LATER

BOB

Denatured alcohol (not  Isopropyl) will rip clean through most acrylic paints (including Future) without much effort (even Tamiya acrylic applied 20 years ago).

Hello,   I  would like to try using resin parts. I understand that they need to be cleaned of

release agents, finger oils etc. first.  Would anyone please let me know what I can use

to best cleane them off?        Thanks a lot

I've read about so many folks using artists oil paints that I've decided to give some a try. I found a midnight black and dark seinna to start with. I used a little this evening to test it and decided paint thinner, or mineral spirits might be an acceptable thinner. It worked but is there anything else that can be used? Does anything work better?

Artists use Turpenoid for that I believe.

Enamels thin with 1 - enamel/general paint thinner 2- mineral spirits 3 - lacquer thinner

Tamiya acrylics thin with 1 - 91%+ isopropyl alcohol 2 - lacquer thinner

Gunze Mr. Color paints thin with lacquer thinner

Water-based acrylics (Vallejo, Lifecolor, MM Acryl) thin with 1 - distilled water 2- Future 3 - Testors acrylic thinner or similar 4 - airbrush medium

Artist oils thin very well with turpenoid. I prefer the odorless paint thinners sold on the same aisle. 

Future and all acrylics (even lacquer-thinned Tamiya) clean up exceptionally well with Windex or other ammonia-based stuff.

Experiences of what works with what vary greatly and what works really well for one person or one climate may completely suck for someone or someplace else.

AND the list continues to grow, thanks to all the suggestions and experiences of you guys! T H A N K S one and all!