Hello!
I had a couple people ask some questions about paper so I thought a post about it might be a good way to go :)
First a quick tool overview - Here is a shot of my main tools that I use for most models
:
You dont need all of them to get started. Good scissors, white glue (not elmers school glue) a steel straight edge and something to score fold lines are all your really need to get started. Let me go over the items and their uses:
White glue (some people use CA type glues too but I prefer white) This Aileens from Wal-mart, just over a buck per bottle. Its good because its a bit thicker than normal glues. Lower water content means less chance of warping the paper. You really need very little glue, its common to use too much.
Scissors: general cutting - smaller is betterbecause its easier to get into little places as needed.
Scoring tool: got those from wal-mart as well. They have tiny balls on the end to make a nice consistent line.
Steel ruler - NO CORK BACKING. Use this to score long straight lines and assist when making long folds if needed.
Various markers and colored pencils to color the edges of the paper. Cut paper edges make a glaring white seam on your model that stick out like a sore thumb if you dont color them.
Paper Drill - the thing with the wood handle. For cutting perfect circles up to 5mm
Scalpel - For cutting out parts. I use this almost exclusively, Only use scissors when I have too. DONT get xacto, super cheap blades wear out quickly, will need a few blades per model. Excel blades are much better, sharpened on one side of blade only so still have paper mounding problems - not a big deal for most models though. The steel they use is a better quality. I use Surgical Scalpel blades. Ground sharp on both sides to make a much better cut. One blade can last for several models.
something round (old xacto handle in this case) to help roll cylinders
Smooth jaw alligator clips - to help hold parts as needed
Not pictured: 65 lb cardstock from office max etc etc. Many people use 110lb. I find that too hard to work with. Printing at home on your ink jet is better than pro printing on laser jet. Laser jet inks crack very badly unless properly treated.
Here is a picture of my model stash stored away neatly in a box. Same box also have my magazine collection. This box contains almost 200 kits! Cant beat paper for model storage needs :)
Here are all the models in that box to give you an idea of different subjects I have been collecting:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AnT7r6ADu3WKdFFRelQwVzRfSGxEVWk5VVdiSnBUNkE&hl=en_US
Here is one of my long term works in progress - the Panzer AusF C been working on it for a couple years on and off between other projects.
To give an idea of the amount of work involved I have taken a pic of the tread parts only (most of them) This is a high end kit with very high detail. Most kits I do are mid level with not nearly this number of parts.... tanks are notorious for their treads. If you are good at painting you can get laser cut parts that are much quicker! Like months of cutting/folding/gluing quicker :)
Thanks all! If you have any questions please dont hesitate to give a shout!
Chris