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I forgot:

I second Doogs ATX recommendation as well. If you computer doesn't have Avery pre-loaded, I guess you can get it here:

http://www.avery.com/avery/en_us/Templates-%26-Software

I have no pictures handy where I'm at right now, but you can also try your local trophy shop for brass etched labels. I don't do mines here in the states but I have a guy in my town (from Puerto Rico) that makes me the labels from $2 to $3 each. Sometimes I send my mother a list with font size/style on a hand made sketch and she sends them back to me to the states. I can have 'em done here but there's some friendship down there.

Cheers!

yes i found a  article in the march 2002 issue

Hans von Hammer

 

 

I did an article for FSM a couple of years ago on this technique, but do not have the issue reference handy right now.

 

I went through the back-issue articles to 2007 and didn't find any articles you wrote Don... Got a better idea of the actaul length of a "couple of years"?

 I know that a "Couple years ago " for me has been known to be as many as ten...

No, I always try to keep an issue of everything I publish, but I have done an exhaustive search and do not have that issue :-(

However, someone earlier in this thread said they found it, so if that person would say what issue, we'd appreciate it.

I did an article for FSM a couple of years ago on this technique, but do not have the issue reference handy right now.

I went through the back-issue articles to 2007 and didn't find any articles you wrote Don... Got a better idea of the actaul length of a "couple of years"?

 I know that a "Couple years ago " for me has been known to be as many as ten...

New Brother TZ-MQ934 is gold print on satin silver tape, 1/2".

Were I inclined to do a brass name-plate, I'd use dry transfer lettering on a piece of brass if I just wanted straight lettering... The model railroad section of the LHS has GOBS of letters and numbers...

thanks for all the input guys. now don if u could just rember the issue no that would be great

many thanks

While I have used a word processor for labels, I find a good photo editor does more artistic things with the fonts.  I use Paint Shop Pro, but Photoshop Elements also does a good job.

I make a decal of the resulting nameplate, and put it over a polished piece of brass.  The result looks like a photolithographed nameplate, but with far less work.  I use a black font on white background, then use the "invert" function to end up with essentially clear letters on black background in the resulting decal.

I did an article for FSM a couple of years ago on this technique, but do not have the issue reference handy right now.

No sweat, Jim..

Doogs, I ain't got MS Word...   Besides, I go with what I know, and nobody "words" a model...

Thanks HvH. I think I'll order some decal paper and the bonder tomorrow and give it a try. Thanks again for all the help.

Jim

MS Paint. Wow. Okay.

I'd suggest using MS Word and picking up some Avery label sheets. Word comes pre-loaded with all kinds of templates for printing to Avery labels...there are instructions on the labels on how to bring the templates up. Then just type in, adjust font, color, etc, and print.

They make a selection of tent cards - I'm thinking about picking up the 2x3.5" to make some standardized labels for my completeds...

Heck, yours is way newer than mine is, lol.. I've had this ol' Lexmark for about 9 years, lol..

Like I said, print out a test on paper, making sure you saved your artwork as a 24-bit Bitmap, then check it.. If it's ok with you on paper, it'll be a tiny bit better (sharper) on the decal paper since the ink won't leech into the paper like it does on copier-paper..  Handle with care until the ink dries too..

Now, here's a BUT, and it's a BIG one..

When you think it's printed out fine, go ahead and start the decal paper BUT:

You MUST use a decal bonder on the decal after you print it... If you don't, the ink will disolve in the water...  I use Testor's Decal Bonder... Comes in a 3 oz. rattle-can for about 5 bucks...  Don't try to skimp by on clear laquer or something else like it.. Get the decal bonder..

It's also great for saving those old decals you have that may crack or splinter...  I've used it on 25-year old decals without a problem...

My printer is a hp photosmart 7350 inkjet. It was free with this computer that my wife bought for me a couple of years ago. Will this one handle decals?

Jim

Your call on the decals, but even an el-cheapo Lexmark Z-611 like mine will do this:

I did this one in about 10 minutes ago on a Lexmark Z-611 and Testor's White Decal Paper... As long as you don't get too detailed, your "el-cheapo" printer will probably handle it (mine did)... Just test it on copier paper first. If it works, then you can put it on decal paper.. Be sure to save it as "24-bit Bitmap  (*bmp) file and not a JPEG...

HvH, I always tell everyone that the book "Computers for Dummies" is way over my head. I've got "MS Paint" and never used it or even thought of using it. I'd love to give it a try. I can't go the decal route as I only have an el-cheapo printer but it sounds like the "MS Paint" route would be the way to go. Thanks for the offer.

Jim

Ditto what Fox said, except I use MS Paint for font and colors. Paint also allows me to add various borders to the labels.. This is especially good for the dioramas I made of Bill Mauldin cartoons featuring "Willie and Joe". I also like using yellow lettering on OD backgrounds for US Army dioramas.. You can mix your own colors on the MS Paint "pallete", BTW..

I've taken it a step farther now, printing the labels onto white decal paper, so I can mount them in more places and on more materials than just the plastic picture frames I use for dioramas...

The diorama below, I couldn't get the decal AND the dio in the shot.. So I just typed the caption in.. But it's the same color and font as the one above.

                                       "Thanks..."

There are a number of websites out there that have free fonts you can download if what you have already "on-board" doesn't suit you...

I'll find some good links for ya if you're interested in going the "MS Paint" route... Just lemme know if you want to..

How about a Brothers P-touch label maker thats what I use.               ACESES5    

I've used good old Microsoft Word to make labels with very good results. You can adjust the Font, Size, and Color. I made one for the center of the stand of the Scottish Maid (my Avatar), placed a piece of clear plastic over it with a very tiny brass screw in each corner. It's not engraved brass plate but it came out OK. Used the same process on a '53 Chevy I entered in a few contests and quite a few guys asked how it was done. They were really surprised when they found out how easy it is.

Jim