Future floor polish on canopies and CA(ZAP A GAP) glue

Don't do it. I had luck once dipping in Future and then having no fogging with CA but the next time I tried it I ruined the clear parts. Not being too smart I tried it a third time and again I got some fogging. Play it safe and use white glue on clear parts.

phelsuma - I tried it many times and it worked, no problems. Future or similar stuff (it comes with many names) is one of the most safe modelling products around. Not so with CA, this can be nasty at times.

jeffpez - I would like to hear more details on your problems - would be good for the people to not repeat your mistakes. I wonder what could go wrong in your case.

Possible problem sources could be - for example - moisture while future is not fully cured. But almost any fogging that shows on future can be remedied with another coat of future, too.

Hope it helps, have a nice day

Paweł

I don't know that I'd call it a problem but I've had mixed results using Future to protect clear parts from CA (I usually use Slo Zap). I typically dip clear parts in Future shortly after starting a project so they're ready when needed. I don't recall what the model was but one time I used CA glue on a clear part (not on purpose but rather because I wasn't paying attention)  and there was no hazing. Assuming I was on to something I did it again with a truck model and got moderate hazing. Why I did it a third time remains a mystery but I did and again got hazing. Every time the Future had in excess of a week to dry. In my mind the outcome is clear. I'm not using CA anywhere near clear parts and because I can't think of any reason I'd have to anyway I've put the subject behind me. If someone has had better results please left us know about it.

jeffpez

I don't know that I'd call it a problem but I've had mixed results using Future to protect clear parts from CA (I usually use Slo Zap). I typically dip clear parts in Future shortly after starting a project so they're ready when needed. I don't recall what the model was but one time I used CA glue on a clear part (not on purpose but rather because I wasn't paying attention)  and there was no hazing. Assuming I was on to something I did it again with a truck model and got moderate hazing. Why I did it a third time remains a mystery but I did and again got hazing. Every time the Future had in excess of a week to dry. In my mind the outcome is clear. I'm not using CA anywhere near clear parts and because I can't think of any reason I'd have to anyway I've put the subject behind me. If someone has had better results please left us know about it.

I`m making a guess here but maybe it could be the longer set-up time for the Slo-Zap. I use the Zap-a-Gap in the green labeled bottle and never had crazing after dipping my canopies in Future. I dip my clear parts as soon as I start a kit just like you do so I`m thinking the fumes from the slo-zap are hanging around longer and that could be the issue with the crazing. Like I said, just a guess.

Len

would'nt try it. Future will make it easier to mask the canopy, not sure about the ca though....

Use white glue or Micro Krystal Klear to fasten....not only is it safe, but will fill gaps.

I've had good luck using a medium thickness CA, hit immediately with accelerator. I am using this on open canopies with plenty of ventilation.

I haven't had trouble with Future + CA. Pawel & troublemaker likely already found the cause, either the Future was "dry but not cured", or the slow-setting fumes are just too much to handle.

I usually use a Testors clear parts cement (aka white glue in a nice applicator) and sometimes give the joint a touch of CA after that has set up, just to help strengthen the joint a little.