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Un-glueing models

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  • Member since
    March 2006
  • From: Right Side of a Left State
Posted by Shellback on Friday, May 18, 2012 6:41 PM

Same here Waynec. 

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: Denver, Colorado
Posted by waynec on Friday, May 18, 2012 6:37 PM
sounds like you listen to prager. a bit off topic but many times i use white glue for hatches if i am not sure if i am going to add crew figures. i also will glue with a dab of cya instead of liquid cement so i can debonder it and CAREFULLY use a scalpel to get parts apart.

Никто не Забыт    (No one is Forgotten)
Ничто не Забыто  (Nothing is Forgotten)

 

  • Member since
    July 2008
  • From: Summerville, SC
Posted by jeffpez on Friday, May 18, 2012 5:49 PM

I didn't think it would work but was out of options so I tried the freezer method and I'm shocked to admit it worked great.

  • Member since
    March 2006
  • From: Right Side of a Left State
Posted by Shellback on Thursday, May 17, 2012 12:06 PM

amazing what can be learned here ......Hmm.......frozen hard drive Yes

  • Member since
    February 2007
Posted by mitsdude on Thursday, May 17, 2012 2:59 AM

Works with computer hardrives too!!!

Well, not to take them apart but to get them working to transfer critical data.

 

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Wednesday, May 16, 2012 11:19 AM

Yep, freezer trick.

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2007
Posted by mitsdude on Wednesday, May 16, 2012 11:16 AM

Another vote for the freezer trick.

 

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: SE Pennsylvania
Posted by padakr on Wednesday, May 16, 2012 10:23 AM

Shellback

 

 padakr:

 

Depends on how well the surfaces bonded and how much was used.  A spare amount might result in joins that could yield to a little finessing.  A lot of glue probably means the plastic is now one solid piece and cutting is your only option.

I have had some success using mineral spirits to "loosen" the bond.  Used sparingly along the join and then gently prying to get the parts apart.  I've only ever used this technique with recently glued parts using Testors liquid (purple label), you know, the "oh cr@p!" moment when I realized that I glued it wrong.

Paul

 

 

Gotta be careful with the mineral spirits . Too much and the plastic looses its strength and will get "pulpy" and disintegrate . 

Yep.  The key is "sparingly".  Just a little bit, applied with a paint brush. And again, I've only done this with recently joined parts.  On a fully cured join, I don't know if it would work.

Paul

  • Member since
    March 2006
  • From: Right Side of a Left State
Posted by Shellback on Wednesday, May 16, 2012 9:24 AM

padakr

Depends on how well the surfaces bonded and how much was used.  A spare amount might result in joins that could yield to a little finessing.  A lot of glue probably means the plastic is now one solid piece and cutting is your only option.

I have had some success using mineral spirits to "loosen" the bond.  Used sparingly along the join and then gently prying to get the parts apart.  I've only ever used this technique with recently glued parts using Testors liquid (purple label), you know, the "oh cr@p!" moment when I realized that I glued it wrong.

Paul

Gotta be careful with the mineral spirits . Too much and the plastic looses its strength and will get "pulpy" and disintegrate . 

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Green Bay, WI USA
Posted by echolmberg on Wednesday, May 16, 2012 9:12 AM

tankerbuilder

I have found that in this case,the freezer is the answer. I put the model in the freezer and it seems to " POP " apart.There are times that even this won,t work too. Then I use " MICRO-SAWS".These saws are made of the same stuff as P.E. and are just as thin,so a lot of material will NOT be lost if you have to do it this way.    TANKERbuilder

Gonna have to agree with Tank.  I once purchased an F-80 through eBay.  It came with the wing halves glued together but they were not lined up properly at all.  I popped them in the freezer and I actually forgot them in there for a few days.  I pulled them out and, with a little force, they popped cleanly in half.

Eric

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: SE Pennsylvania
Posted by padakr on Tuesday, May 15, 2012 4:11 PM

Depends on how well the surfaces bonded and how much was used.  A spare amount might result in joins that could yield to a little finessing.  A lot of glue probably means the plastic is now one solid piece and cutting is your only option.

I have had some success using mineral spirits to "loosen" the bond.  Used sparingly along the join and then gently prying to get the parts apart.  I've only ever used this technique with recently glued parts using Testors liquid (purple label), you know, the "oh cr@p!" moment when I realized that I glued it wrong.

Paul

  • Member since
    August 2008
Posted by tankerbuilder on Tuesday, May 15, 2012 3:57 PM

I have found that in this case,the freezer is the answer. I put the model in the freezer and it seems to " POP " apart.There are times that even this won,t work too. Then I use " MICRO-SAWS".These saws are made of the same stuff as P.E. and are just as thin,so a lot of material will NOT be lost if you have to do it this way.    TANKERbuilder

  • Member since
    April 2012
Posted by Reserve on Tuesday, May 15, 2012 12:42 AM

I don't think so...anything that would break down a toluene based glue joint would also eat the styrene. If I have to do this and can't snip it or saw it I grab hold and give it a good twist. Sometimes I'm lucky, mostly I'm not.

  • Member since
    January 2012
Un-glueing models
Posted by Mrakulous on Tuesday, May 15, 2012 12:36 AM

I have an old GTO that is somewhat built.  I want to rebuild, but I need something to get the parts separated.  I'm sure it was glued with the red Testors tube glue and not a CA type.  Is there any way to dissolve the glue or soften it?

Tags: glue,
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