Hobby Lobby Home Resin Sets

I have not used that kit, but did buy one a number of years ago by Ace Resins. It was a good starting kit- more expensive than the one you mentioned.  When I had used it up I then bought my own resins and RTV.

Resin casting is a very specialized set of skills. It has a very shallow learning curve. In spite of the popular wisdom, that is bad.  A steep learning curve means you learn it rapidly.  It took many molds before I found the tricks.  You do NOT need a vacuum machine.  The secret is in the mold design.  Pouring sprues should be J-shaped- incoming resin has to enter mold cavity from bottom.  Top of mold should have only vent riser tubes (to clear out air bubbles).  The resin rising from the bottom of the cavity pushes out the air by way of the top.  Bubbles of air should never have to compete with incoming resin.

Currently I buy my resin and RTV from Micro Mark.  Their prices are competitive and the service is quick.

Another secret- mixing of resin bottles is very important.  In addition to mixing the two parts of the resin after pouring each into the mixing container, it is important to shake each resin bottle BEFORE pouring.  After it sits for a couple of weeks the individual resins begin to separate into components.  Invert bottles vigorously.

I believe that HobbyLobby sells Alumilite resin & RTV.   Its okay,  but I've found the resin to be a bit coarse and the results may be spotty for someone new to resin techniques.

I use Smooth On.   They have a good online how-to manual that may give you an idea as to the processes involved in home resin casting.  http://www.smooth-on.com/howto.php   The techniques should be applicable to Alumilite or other products.

Check the Smooth-On website for their distributors.   They have an introductory package which contains RTV, resin,  mold release and other items.   I purchase my materials over the counter and they are able to help with some technical questions.   I also believe that MicroMark sells re-packaged/re-labeled Smooth-On products

I use the Alumilte set to start with...  Works rather well for casting  figures, engines, MGs, packs, ammo-pouchs, track-sections, stuff like that..    ANd yeah, use the coupon...

Been casting parts with the stuff there for about five years, I'd reckon..

Hans von Hammer

I use the Alumilte set to start with...  Works rather well for casting  figures, engines, MGs, packs, ammo-pouchs, track-sections, stuff like that..    ANd yeah, use the coupon...

Been casting parts with the stuff there for about five years, I'd reckon..

Tip for a quick fix, a one shot deal, involving no resin:  I once dropped an external hull piece into the nearly completed fuselage of a Star Trek ship model.  Of course, it had super glue on it and was impossible to shake out.  I had another identical piece for the other side of the ship.  To duplicate it, I pressed it into a chunk of modelling clay, removed it, and filled the depression with 5 min epoxy.  Bingo, a nice duplicate was born and fit nicely to complete the model.

Cadet Chuck

Tip for a quick fix, a one shot deal, involving no resin:  I once dropped an external hull piece into the nearly completed fuselage of a Star Trek ship model.  Of course, it had super glue on it and was impossible to shake out.  I had another identical piece for the other side of the ship.  To duplicate it, I pressed it into a chunk of modelling clay, removed it, and filled the depression with 5 min epoxy.  Bingo, a nice duplicate was born and fit nicely to complete the model.

I had that happen recently with a piece of PE railing.  Even though I was only using white glue, the railing piece was so light that I could not shake it out.  Have lost several railing sections through one way or another, and don't know how I will replace them.  There are no extra sections in the kit.