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Howdy all,
I'm building the big model of the seaview. I want to detail the interior, but the kit windows aren't really clear enough to see inside. Anyone have any ideas how I can get good clear windows in the nose of the sub so you can see inside? Plan on using LEDs to light up the interior.
ALSO-I'm learning how to use my airbrush. Would someone please tell me how far down I need to thin my paint? I will be using both enamel and acrylic paints.
Thanks much
I cant help you with the Seaview question, but when thinning paint I go for a consistency similar to milk.
Cary
Ditto on the consistency of milk. A fellow club member is building the shuttle for the enterprise and he ran into the same problem with the windows. He sandwiched a piece of clear plastic between two pieces of white plastic shaped and cut out the same as the shuttles original window section. He cut out the one on the shuttle and replaced it with the one he made. Hope this helps.
Jim
Main WIP:
On the Bench: Artesania Latina (aka) Artists in the Latrine 1/75 Bluenose II
I keep hitting "escape", but I'm still here.
One problem with thinning is that judging the viscosity of a liquid is very difficult for most of us. I'd start with popular thinning ratios and experiment from there. I use Testors enamels and I and a number of folks I know start at 1:1- add one part of thinner to one part of paint. Thinning ratios do not need to be super exact- probably within 10% is fine. You can adjust pressure, distance from model, and speed of movement of airbrush to make up for variations in thinning ratio.
Now, to clear windows. You could use microglaze if the windows are small enough, but the microglaze windows are probably not going to be very good either. If you really want to see through them well, you'll need to cut out individual panes from transparent plastic and glue them inside the hull openings. The glue you use is important. CA and liquid cement have a tendency to craze or fog transparent plastics. White glue is commonly used for this task, or epoxy if the window will be exposed to any real stress.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
If you treat the clear plastic with future first that will help prevent fogging from CA and after the glue has dried you can add a little more future to the clear to bring back the clearness if it did fog up a bit
Clint
Rambo If you treat the clear plastic with future first that will help prevent fogging from CA and after the glue has dried you can add a little more future to the clear to bring back the clearness if it did fog up a bit
I tried coating canopy once with future, it fogged anyway. Since the fog was inside, I couldn't get Future into there. I've used epoxy or white glue ever since.
wow i never had that happen to me i know it can still happen but it cuts the risk down alot
One thing I do is I thin the paint to the consistency that I think it should be and then spray it on some scraps. Then I determine if its too thin, too thick or just right. All you have to do then is add a liitle paint or a little thinner and you're good to go.
There really isn't a one size fits all thinner to paint ration because it depends on the brand of paint. And even then some paints in the same line of paints need to be thinned differently.
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