Testors Model Glue Question

I sure haven't. I've stopped buying that glue because I so frequently get it clogged.  I now buy bottled solvent type glues in a bottle.  Usually come with a large brush, but I have smaller brushes I can use, or the toothpick or broken needle tricks.

They still make one with the metal tube in the "Model Master" line. Same bottle but a black label instead of red.

To my knownledge it is NOT supposed to be removeable,

I've accidentally left off the cap for a day or so and did not get a clog.

The version with the  plastic spigot was constantly clogging. One I had to cut down so far that it was useless.

Even though the black label one is not supposed to be removable you can twist the cap off that holds the metal tube. I did this to an almost empty one and refilled it with the glue from a red label one by removing its cap. Its the same exact glue.

67 GTX

A few years ago, their glue used to have a metal spigot that was removable, and easy to clean. The new one’s have the spigot as part of the bottle, and you snip off a little bit to make is pour.

I thought there were two types, ModelMaster with the metal needle tip and the standard Testors branded (but still the same stuff) with the plastic snip-off tip. IIRC, they were supplied with a little short  bit of wire on a loop to clear the tip. Both came in the same wedge-shaped black plastic squeeze-bottle but had different  tips and different labels.

Phil_H

67 GTX

A few years ago, their glue used to have a metal spigot that was removable, and easy to clean. The new one’s have the spigot as part of the bottle, and you snip off a little bit to make is pour.

I thought there were two types, ModelMaster with the metal needle tip and the standard Testors branded (but still the same stuff) with the plastic snip-off tip. IIRC, they were supplied with a little short  bit of wire on a loop to clear the tip. Both came in the same wedge-shaped black plastic squeeze-bottle but had different  tips and different labels.

I still had clogging problems if I let the tip touch the kit plastic.  Some of the dissolved plastic must wick back up the tube.  After awhile it got so bad the little wire would just buckle and not go into the tube, which is why I eventually stopped using even the metal-tubed version.

Even though the black label one is not supposed to be removable you can twist the cap off that holds the metal tube. I did this to an almost empty one and refilled it with the glue from a red label one by removing its cap. Its the same exact glue.

It's the same as far as MEK (Methyl-Ethel Keytone) making up the major "welding" portion of the cement..  However, the "Black Bottle" liquid cement is thicker than the "Pink Label" liquid cement.. 

SAVE THOSE APPLICATOR TUBES!

They're outstanding for aircraft .50-cal/13mm MG blast tubes..

What do you guys think the best glue would be to buy?

This plastic spigot one is terrible.

Personally, I use the Testor's Model Master Black Bottle and the good ol' Testor's "pink label" liquids almost exclusively... The only real differences in them is one is appliied via metal tube-applicator, the other via paintbrush, and their viscosity... I even keep a tube or two of Testor's Orange Tube Cement around.. (I use it for making bullet-splashes in diorama "water"...)

The active ingredient, MEK, is the same..  As far as brands like Weld-On #3 and Tenax R-7, they're about the same, just "hotter" (Too hot, IMHO), since they contain more MEK, but they also evaporate faster.. Straight MEK itself used to be available at hardware stores, but has largely been replaced with "MEK Substitute" that frankly, I'm not gonna try... I've got about a gallon of MEK still on-hand, as I bought out the hardware store's supply when I heard it was soon going to be pulled off the shelves...  

Other than that, I still have the CA and white glue on-hand too..  As for CAs, I only buy the carded 4 tubes for 1.99 typpe from the grocery store.. The "Hobby Shop Brands" are, to me anyway, over-priced and don't have any real advantages over "cheap" CA... The Hobby brands get tossed out because the damn things won't open anymore,  well before they ever get emptied..

Oh yeah.. Might wanna keep some stiff wire around (old guitar high-E strings work well for this) to unclog tips..  Piano wire works too..

I agree with Hammers opinion on CA glue, buy the cheap stuff at a dollar store.

Unless you are gonna use lots of CA the larger bottles are a waste. Clogs, thickens, dry up, etc. Supposedly you can keep it the fridge to extend its life.

As you get more into modelling I think you will discover you need a variety of glues.

Epoxy for those heavy or load bearing parts.

I also keep a bottle of Tamiya thin (green cap) around. Just the other day I was sanding a long seam and part of it separated leaving a small crack. I used the applicator brush inside the Tamiya bottle lightly touched it to the crack. It flowed into the crack and didn't mar the surface like the gel glue would do.

You will probably also use these glues for other things around the house and not just you models.

Help a new guy.  What is CA?

Cyanoacrylate. Super glue.

alreadypostal

Help a new guy.  What is CA?

Hold your cursor over the "How To" box at the top of the page.. A drop-down menu will appear and then click on "Glossary"

It's a glossary of model-related terms and definitions that're commonly used in the forums.. FSM wrote most of them, but they also added items that readers sent in..

Here's the link:

http://www.finescale.com/home/how%20to/glossary.aspx

You don't have to go through the whole glossary either.. If you want, just click on the letter that matches the first letter of the term you need "translated", lol.. For instance, "C"..

http://www.finescale.com/How%20To/Glossary.aspx?letter=C

You'll find it really useful sometimes, and also you'll pick up the terms by just reading the forum as you hang around longer..

Thanks Hans!  I found the answer in a Micromark catalogue.  The link is great.  I guess I need to search the website more.  Thanks again.

YO ! I recently started using TAMIYA liquid glues.I like it so much better. I used to use both the TESTORS liquid and the ubiquitious little black bottles.NEVER had the problems you all are speaking of.There is one thing that is a truism here though.

Don,you had the right of it.IF you touched the surface with either the plastic or metal tip it did indeed wick up into the applicator nozzle.That,s why when I used it I made sure I lifted it away while I was still squeezing a little.

Still I do like the TAMIYA brand for two reasons , it,s neater and the bottle doesn,t get upset as easy(good thing for old person shakes and clumsiness).It seems to react to capillary action better and sets up faster.,plus, the little brush is so much better to handle ,instead of a separate brush or applicator.

Hans von Hammer

As far as brands like Weld-On #3 and Tenax R-7, they're about the same, just "hotter" (Too hot, IMHO), since they contain more MEK, but they also evaporate faster.. Straight MEK itself used to be available at hardware stores, but has largely been replaced with "MEK Substitute" that frankly, I'm not gonna try... I've got about a gallon of MEK still on-hand, as I bought out the hardware store's supply when I heard it was soon going to be pulled off the shelves...  

Other than that, I still have the CA and white glue on-hand too..  As for CAs, I only buy the carded 4 tubes for 1.99 typpe from the grocery store.. The "Hobby Shop Brands" are, to me anyway, over-priced and don't have any real advantages over "cheap" CA... The Hobby brands get tossed out because the damn things won't open anymore,  well before they ever get emptied..

 

You know, I read raves about Tenax, Weld on and the Touch-N-Flow applicator.  Having purchased both I can say I'm less than impressed, in fact I don't think the TNF system is even working, couldn't get the liquid glue to even go out.  At the end of the day, they seem like overpriced and not so great products.  I didn't see that any of the "hotter" liquid cements worked any faster or better than the Testors product that's been around since.........

The metal spigot is still made?

Here's how I got around it:

1) If you don't already have some on hand, purchase some Testors "Precision Glueing Tips." These are nominally for tubes, but will work fine for this.

2) Clip the applicator to create an opening large enough to insert a non-flexible drill bit (I used a 1/16)

3) Insert the drill bit down the applicator an slowly drill into, but not through, the plastic plug at the base of the applicator

4) Press firmly on the drill until the plug pops free; then reverse and remove the drill bit.

5) Put a little adhesive on the outside of the applicator, then slide the Precision Tip onto the applicator until it fits snuggly. Cover the Precision Tip with the cover intended for the applicator.

You should be ready to go. Remember, always cover the tip as soon as possible. Also, frequently clear the tip using the "puff" technique.

Wow, Von Hammer posts, brings back fun memories,wonder how he's doing.

Dirkpitt another oldie but goodie,and look at Phil and Don Stauffer being as helpful 8 years ago as they are now.

I occasionally go back and read the Zombie threads from way back just to recall the ones who left.