Glueing Transparencies

dirkpitt77

You could dip them in Future and then use CA to  install. For some reason Future prevents clear parts fogging caused by CA. This is the method I use on nearly all my kits now.

I tried that trick several months ago, and still got fogging from the CA.

Many thanks to you all, I appreciate your helpful advice and suggestions.

I am in UK so some of the products are not available over here, but I have managed to locate something called Zap Canopy over here which is supposed to be specifically for this type of glueing.

Not sure if its simply repackaged PVA but I will test it out on inconspicuous areas first to see if its ok before attemptign the windows on the Routemaster......

Thanks to all again and happy Modelling my friends !!

PS - I recommend the Routemaster to all, brilliant tooled model, and the parts just seem to WANT to be fitted together...

after years of using Aleene's Tacky Glue, I tried some Gator's Grip

http://www.gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder1.html

both dry clear and hold the parts in place better than White Glue does

here is what Aleene's bottle looks like

http://www.ilovetocreate.com/Aleenes-Original-Tacky-Glue-213

as mentioned, Pledge with Future can be used, as can Floquil Railroad Acrylics Clears (they are PolyScale formula)

Rex

You could dip them in Future and then use CA to  install. For some reason Future prevents clear parts fogging caused by CA. This is the method I use on nearly all my kits now.

I use MicroScale's Krystal Klear for most of my clear parts.  If it is a clear part that I can forsee punching in during the build process, say a window inside a Fuselage after the halves are closed, I use the clear epoxy that Don recommends.  

They make a product for gluing transparencies that is very much like white glue- may be a modified concoction of same.  Micro Scale, Testors, and others make this stuff.  It seems to stick a bit better than regular white glue.  However, it is not nearly as strong as CA or epoxy. If you need to mask the parts for painting, you risk knocking them loose either when masking or removing the mask.  If I will have to mask the parts, I use epoxy.  Epoxy makes a strong bond but will not fog transparent plastic like CA will.

I am doing an airliner now that requires a LOT of transparency gluing (and masking).  I had always disliked using the epoxy 'cause of the mixing, smell, etc. and viewed it as a necessary evil.  However, since I have had to do so much of it on this kit, I find I have come up to speed, and it no longer bothers me.  Like anything else in modeling, once you do something enough times to get the hang of it, it becomes just another common technique.

You can dampen a q-tip or even the end of a tooth pick with water and poke and wipe at any white glue that isn't where you want it.  That might get rid of the parts that didn't dry clear.

Welcome to the Forums Lafferty. I can't help you with your problem, but, I think you would get answers in the Decals Forum. The answer might already be posted by someone in another post. Good luck. My name is Jim and I am a plasticaholic. I love the smell of plastic in the mourning.

Jim