Chrome Plated Parts

I am one who does NOT remove all chrome if I want another kind of finish.  For gluing, I only scrape away the chrome from glue attachment points.  

I prime the part with a primer good for bonding with metal.  I then paint (oh, if I am painting part I scrape chrome and paint away AFTER finishing, of course).  Sometimes I Alclad the part if I think the chrome looks too shiny.

BTW, if the part is supposed to be cast aluminum, I sometimes use Testors dullcoat to make the chrome dull- it then is a reasonable look for cast aluminum.

Digital_Cowboy

     I'm sure that most if not all of us know that chrome plated parts can't just be glued to styrene, that the chrome has to be removed or stripped first before gluing.  Particularly when using the "old standard" Testors (or similar) glue that "melts" the plastic together.  My question is, if one used a CA or epoxy, does the chrome have to be removed or stripped first?

     My next question is why does it seem like so many here go to extremes to remove ALL of the chrome from parts?  And/or why don't companies provide parts with and without chrome?  That way people will have the choice of using the chromed or unchromed parts.  Does one need to remove all of the chrome in order to paint the part?

     And another good question is that considering that plastic does NOT (at least the last time I checked) conduct electricity then how do they plate it with chrome?!?!

If using CA or epoxy, you don't need to do the chrome removal, but you have to remember that the bond will be between the chrome-CA-plastic or if the plastic is painted, then chrome-CA-paint. You won't have as strong a bond as you would with plastic-to-plastic when regular cement "melts" them into one.

When companies chrome the entire sprue, there is often mold seams that are visible that will need to be removed. Plus most chrome looks too shiny and appear fake. There are now better ways to paint the chrome on that look more realistic. Additionally, not everything chromed on the sprue needs to be as shiny. A shift lever may be bare metal, the bumper polished aluminum, etc.

You can google that answer for the chrome plating. I know there are several companies that will chrome scratchbuilt or re-chrome parts you've cleaned up. They send you a kit to mount your pieces to. They probably have information on their sites that describe the process.

Don Stauffer

I am one who does NOT remove all chrome if I want another kind of finish.  For gluing, I only scrape away the chrome from glue attachment points.  

I prime the part with a primer good for bonding with metal.  I then paint (oh, if I am painting part I scrape chrome and paint away AFTER finishing, of course).  Sometimes I Alclad the part if I think the chrome looks too shiny.

BTW, if the part is supposed to be cast aluminum, I sometimes use Testors dullcoat to make the chrome dull- it then is a reasonable look for cast aluminum.

Don,

     Personally, I think that your way sounds like a happy medium.  Remove what needs removing for the job at hand and leave the rest in place.

     That also sounds like a good idea, i.e. the dull coat application.  As I can see how some of the pieces  might just be a tad too shiny.

     Which again brings up the question of (other then the short answer being to save money on their end) why don't the companies provide duplicates of the chromed parts?  With one set being chromed and the other set "bare" plastic?  Wouldn't that save a lot of "headaches?"

     As I have to wonder how many pieces were damaged/lost because someone was trying to remove the chrome from the plastic?

Rob Gronovius

Digital_Cowboy

     I'm sure that most if not all of us know that chrome plated parts can't just be glued to styrene, that the chrome has to be removed or stripped first before gluing.  Particularly when using the "old standard" Testors (or similar) glue that "melts" the plastic together.  My question is, if one used a CA or epoxy, does the chrome have to be removed or stripped first?

     My next question is why does it seem like so many here go to extremes to remove ALL of the chrome from parts?  And/or why don't companies provide parts with and without chrome?  That way people will have the choice of using the chromed or unchromed parts.  Does one need to remove all of the chrome in order to paint the part?

     And another good question is that considering that plastic does NOT (at least the last time I checked) conduct electricity then how do they plate it with chrome?!?!

If using CA or epoxy, you don't need to do the chrome removal, but you have to remember that the bond will be between the chrome-CA-plastic or if the plastic is painted, then chrome-CA-paint. You won't have as strong a bond as you would with plastic-to-plastic when regular cement "melts" them into one.

When companies chrome the entire sprue, there is often mold seams that are visible that will need to be removed. Plus most chrome looks too shiny and appear fake. There are now better ways to paint the chrome on that look more realistic. Additionally, not everything chromed on the sprue needs to be as shiny. A shift lever may be bare metal, the bumper polished aluminum, etc.

You can google that answer for the chrome plating. I know there are several companies that will chrome scratchbuilt or re-chrome parts you've cleaned up. They send you a kit to mount your pieces to. They probably have information on their sites that describe the process.

Rob,

     Good points, one has to weigh what they want the fished model to look like.

     I'll have to do that one of these days.

Other than some of the higher end kits, most chrome just looks very thick and a lot of detail is lost.