Transparent parts

Transparent parts are styrene, but the mix is different the non transparant parts. Altough it is not a popular option I often use regular styreen cement to attach them.

I too recently started using Testors liquid cement to glue my clear parts as well. Works great with no fogging (at least on Eduards clear parts) and you simply cannot beat the bond that it creates. As always, care is necessary in its application as to not ruin the parts.

Okay, how do  you guys apply it so that it doesn't get on the face of the parts?

Do you put it on both parts (transparent piece and the part you are gluing it too)?

I usually just set the clear parts where they are suppose to go and hold them there using a minor amount of pressure, these Eduard transparencies seem to fit really well, and using the brush from the bottle just touch one of the corners at the seam and it fills the seam with the glue. One thing though, do not put a lot pressure on the two parts after applying the glue as I don't think this is a seam where you want any plastic oozing out.

One problem seems to add to the problem- the molding of the transparent parts does not seem to be as good as for the on-transparent parts.  So I find quite a gap in windows.  The windows are a bit too small for the openings. I assume though that the bond between the flange and inside of fuselage will be enough to hold the window well enough.  I'll try some liquid glue next time.

I just finished the Eduard JU-52 in 1:144- the civil airliner version.  Fit was excellent.  I used epoxy for windows, but I will try the solvent cement next time.

I recently started using Micro Kristal Klear to bond clear parts.  I just apply it with a tooth pick around the frame of the clear part.  Sometimes, depending on how well the part fits, I will just apply it around the corners.

It has a fantastic bond.  I've had to really yank off the clear parts before to get them off.  And if you do decide to remove the clear part after you've glued it on all you have to do is scrape off the glue, although you might have to touch up the paint where the glue was.  But it wont scar the parts at all.

Another great thing is that you can use the Kristal Klear as a filler around the seam between the clear part and the model.

Its similar to Elmer's white glue but it does dry very clear.  You can use something like a wet cotton swab to remove any excess glue.

I've been using a super glue from "bob smith Industries,  their "Super-Gold"  CA, it works great on clear parts, its says on the bottle "no Frosting"  and it doesn't

This is a product that very often has a hobby store name sticker on it, "Store Brand as it were".  but the rest of the bottle is the same.

www.bsi-inc.com/.../oca.html

hope this helps

John

I've been using it on that wonderful piece of plastic that is always at the rear of the canopy where all the hydraulic pistons connect to open and close the canopy, at least on jet aircraft.

John

By the way, I see some folks are getting a really strong bond with Kristal Klear. I do not.  I have several times pushed windows inside the fuselage while masking them.  I need to press down hard enough so the masking tape seals well, and in cutting out the masking tape I am pressing on the window with the point of the hobby knife.  These are the times when the windows seem to pop in most frequently.

A canopy isn't bad- you can always glue it back on.  But when a window pops inside a fuselage, that is a real disaster.  I have taken to masking a lot of stuff before I glue sides together- that helps, but I still get windows loose inside my models :-(

Ah.  Well I usually build fighter type planes with canopies.  I don't typically build planes that have the fuselage windows.