using weights in models

A word of caution with CA and steel weights.. I used CA to hold the weight in a kit and the CA fumes fogged the clear parts from the inside.

Now I use miliput to hold my weight in place

So if you have to use CA let that stuff sit a few days before doing anything.

I had my Cessna 172 at a model club meeting yesterday for show and tell.  Half way through the meeting someone just barely bumped the table and the Cessna bounced back on its tail :-(

I bought a metal with a low melting temperature, melted it with a candle and poured it into the nose of my model F-89. Its been three years and nothing has gone wrong yet.

Don :

   You can file away the area that MIGHT interfere with the floor .Just add one more to the total . You can also put a thin one UNDER the forward floor as well . That one also has to be thin .This will wotk though . A thin one can be used (smaller and thicker on the back of the instrument panel too .)       Tanker-builder

tankerbuilder

DON , HI :

     Listen I have built that model and this is what I used .You know those big thick , but not so thick , fender washers ? These are what I use . I file them to fit the contours of the inside of the aircraft and then they form the forward inside firewall . That plane used two . I have used them with great luck on the MONOGRAM  tri-gear planes  and ALL my tamiya and HASEGAWA tri-gear planes .Remember though these are NOT entered in contests , but built for my collection , so If I have to shave the top off the nose gear well , I will . Of course for contest grade builds you cannot do this . Hope you find this tip a help .    Tanker-Builder

Wouldn't those washers interfere with the cockpit floor?  Or is there enough room.  The front edge of the floor is pretty close to the firewall.  Or did you use smaller diameter washers so they would be above the floor. I intend to make another build of this kit, not OOB as this one was, and would like to detail the engine compartment (nice engine in the kit) so putting weight behind firewall is attractive if it would fit.

DON , HI :

     Listen I have built that model and this is what I used .You know those big thick , but not so thick , fender washers ? These are what I use . I file them to fit the contours of the inside of the aircraft and then they form the forward inside firewall . That plane used two . I have used them with great luck on the MONOGRAM  tri-gear planes  and ALL my tamiya and HASEGAWA tri-gear planes .Remember though these are NOT entered in contests , but built for my collection , so If I have to shave the top off the nose gear well , I will . Of course for contest grade builds you cannot do this . Hope you find this tip a help .    Tanker-Builder

I'm building the Minicraft 1:48 Cessna 172.  I had to fill the whole engine compartment with fishing line weights, and it barely sits on its nose. It isn't painted yet.  I sure hope the paint doesn't end up biasing weight back to the tail so it won't sit on nosewheel :-(

take a look here:

plastimodelismo.net/index.php

gregbale

I use Elmer's as well, usually with bullet-type fishing sinkers. (Fit great in radomes.)  I've also used heavy chain as an "emergency" extra weight when the completed model won't quite sit upright--it has the virtue that it will often slide into gaps and  recesses (behind inst. panels, for instance) without the need for doing damage to finished construction.

Also--for those who may not have heard--NEVER use CA adhesives with lead or lead-like weights like fishing sinkers. The CA reacts with the metal over time, creating an ongoing "growth" of oxidized material that can and will literally burst the model from the inside. Not what you want to see happen to that much-loved (and sweated over) project.

John

I use fishing weigth lead and glue it in with white glue. Bullets and shot are difficult to get over here in the Netherlands.

I stuck an old padlock into a Monogram B-36 to get it on it's nose.

I use shot but use 5 min epoxy. Word of caution, if your model is big and needs lots of weight don't do it in one big shot. The heat from so much epoxy can deform the styrene. Instead, add the weight in stages so the epoxy can cool. Small amounts are no problem.

Cadet Chuck

Do NOT use something like Squadron putty or plastic solvents- that will deform the styrene, and the model will have to go to the circular file.  I learned from experience!

Ditto on that.  Testors Orange Tube glue.  Only made that mistake once.

I use fishing sinkers and either build a box or tuck them behind a interior bulkhead and add white glue.

Paul

Don Stauffer

I have heard of a lead-filled putty (or uses some heavy metal if not lead) for weighting pinebox derby cars.  Anyone know if this stuff is still available?  I understand finding lead shot these days is getting hard 'cause of fear of poisoning waterfowl.

Don't know about the lead putty (or the useful lead wool that plumbers used to use, which also used to be commonly available), but if one is looking for an alternative to lead shot, consider wheel weights. Available at most automotive supply stores, they're a manageable size, pretty easy to cut into smaller bits, and sometimes self-adhesive as well. (Like everything else, they used to be made out of lead, but are some lead-free alternative now.)

I have heard of a lead-filled putty (or uses some heavy metal if not lead) for weighting pinebox derby cars.  Anyone know if this stuff is still available?  I understand finding lead shot these days is getting hard 'cause of fear of poisoning waterfowl.

Raven Morpheus

My ESCI UH-1D wasn't sitting right on the skids, it tilted backwards, so I CA'd a penny to the underside of the interior floor.  Sits perfect now.

Great fix. I remember building the old Monogram T-28. I figured out that the area behind the molded engine front had just enough space to slide a nickel in. Just enough weight to make it sit properly on its nosewheel.

My ESCI UH-1D wasn't sitting right on the skids, it tilted backwards, so I CA'd a penny to the underside of the interior floor.  Sits perfect now.

I use two methods for the most part.  I mix lead shot with two-part epoxy and then place that mixture into appropriate voids.  And, I use bullets, either pulled projectiles or fired bullets that I pick up on the berm on my firing range out in the country.  I've found that 9mm and .45 ACP bullets fit very neatly into the nose-cones of jet aircraft.  I  secure them with the epoxy as well.  On my Monogram F84F, I placed a .308 FMJ bullet(longitudinally) right on top of the nose gear well.  Heck, there was a recess on the topside that looked like it was formed for that bullet.

Gary

I use Elmer's as well, usually with bullet-type fishing sinkers. (Fit great in radomes.)  I've also used heavy chain as an "emergency" extra weight when the completed model won't quite sit upright--it has the virtue that it will often slide into gaps and  recesses (behind inst. panels, for instance) without the need for doing damage to finished construction.

Also--for those who may not have heard--NEVER use CA adhesives with lead or lead-like weights like fishing sinkers. The CA reacts with the metal over time, creating an ongoing "growth" of oxidized material that can and will literally burst the model from the inside. Not what you want to see happen to that much-loved (and sweated over) project.

I use BB's, with a drizzle of CA glue to hold 'em in place.  Sets up pretty fast, and won't damage the plastic.

Do NOT use something like Squadron putty or plastic solvents- that will deform the styrene, and the model will have to go to the circular file.  I learned from experience!

Yes that's correct,I use BB's instead

I use bird shot as well.  But I mix it in some Aves Apoxie Sculpt so that it looks like cookie dough and mash it into some crevice such as the nose cone.  It dries rock hard.  This is my preferred method.

I've also used white glue to make a slurry with the shot and put it into the nose of the model.  Most recently I built a 1/48 Hasegawa F-2A.  It wasn't originally a tail sitter but I added a resin exhaust and it became one.  The plane was all assembled.  Now what?  Well, there where two openings behind the rudder pedals that led to the nose cone.  So I created this Elmer's glue/bird shot slurry, set the model on its nose and used tweezers to drop in each shot bearing into the spaces individually.

Worked like a charm.  But it did take a couple of days fro the Elmer's glue to dry.  Probably because of a lack of fresh air circulation?