clear plastic repairs

I can't speak to that video, but I would recommend the micro-mesh abrasive system. It comes in grits 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000, 10000. You start with the 3200, and use them consecutively, finishing with the 10k grit. They work great, and you can polish out the orange peel in gloss finishes, or smooth the plastic before laying down a natural metal finishl, so they're versatile.

Glenn

mississippivol

I can't speak to that video, but I would recommend the micro-mesh abrasive system. It comes in grits 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000, 10000. You start with the 3200, and use them consecutively, finishing with the 10k grit. They work great, and you can polish out the orange peel in gloss finishes, or smooth the plastic before laying down a natural metal finishl, so they're versatile.

Glenn

I'll second that Glenn.  They are very handy to have; when I built my Monogram Panther, the framing on the windscreen was way too large.  I sanded all the framing away () and by using the Micro Mark abrasive pads and plastic polish, I was able to restore all the clarity to the clear plastic and redo the framing.  Highly recommended tool to have!

Gary

With the advent of future, you do not need to go as fine in sandpaper as you used to.  I find using about 1000 grit I can then future the part and it does the same thing that the extremely fine sanding/polishing papers do.

Thanks to all.

Glenn where can I find this Micro-Mesh abrasive system?

ICIT

Local hobby shops should have it, as well as good online stores. I've started seeing them at Hobby Lobby, too. There should be some advertisers in Finescales' sister magazine "Scale Auto Enthusiast". I'd like to also second Don's recommendation for the Future "dunk", it puts that final shine on it.

Glenn

Here ya go:

http://www.micromark.com/soft-touch-sanding-and-polishing-pad-set-set-of-6,7787.html

thanks gunner, got a show coming up and I will make sure to look for something like that.

ICIT

Hi :

  For years I did this .I would sand with progressively finer grits (wet ) and then when it was just right I would do this .Take your very smooth part and then polish it with the Novus two part polish .Now , looks nice doesn't it  .Want it to really POP ? You go to your auto parts store and get the polish made specificially for the new style headlight covers . Polish with that , one more time . Lot of polishing wasn't it ? Yeah , but the part actually looks better than new .You can also use thinned MM clear to finish it off and give it a non-yellowing final gloss .I don't use future cause I've not had good luck with it in years .

As Don said Future does an excellent job. I sanded a seam off a Trumpeter canopy. Who in the heck puts a seam down the center of a bubble canopy???? I can't tell you the grits but I have very thin sanding sticks that Hobby Lobby sells in medium sized bags. I only used the pink (fine), white (extra fine) and light grey (polishing) ones and the seam and scratches were completely removed. Unfortunately, somehow it got crazed on one side and had to be replaced but the second one came out as good or better after being dipped in Future.

Thanks guys, I tried the micro mesh and the Novus 2 stuff and viola- good as new. Thanks all.