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Things I've learned so far

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  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Illinois: Hive of Scum and Villany
Posted by Sprue-ce Goose on Monday, January 27, 2014 6:09 PM

Don Stauffer

Sprue-ce Goose

Don Stauffer

One of the main things I have learned is that someone will come out with a fantastic new kit of a subject I like just after I have bought a competitor's so-so kit :-(

Hmm...that always happens to me when I scratch build a model of something that is unavailable as a kit.
Hmm

Yup- have had that happen several times too.  At least Roden came out with their staggerwing Beech just before I started cutting wood for a scratch one :-)  Got two Stinson tri-motors underway.  Sure wish someone would do a decent kit of one or both (A and T).

Stinson tri-motors would be nice. Big Smile
I've had a hankerin' for a Stout ST-1 torpedo bomber since seeing it in an Air Power magazine article about the designer.
Tags: Stout ST-1
  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Monday, January 27, 2014 8:54 AM

Sprue-ce Goose

Don Stauffer

One of the main things I have learned is that someone will come out with a fantastic new kit of a subject I like just after I have bought a competitor's so-so kit :-(

Hmm...that always happens to me when I scratch build a model of something that is unavailable as a kit.
Hmm

Yup- have had that happen several times too.  At least Roden came out with their staggerwing Beech just before I started cutting wood for a scratch one :-)  Got two Stinson tri-motors underway.  Sure wish someone would do a decent kit of one or both (A and T).

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Sunday, January 26, 2014 4:31 PM

Don Stauffer

One of the main things I have learned is that someone will come out with a fantastic new kit of a subject I like just after I have bought a competitor's so-so kit :-(

 
Yep, that is the norm. I took both old Tamiya Sdkfz. 222 and the 223 and scratch built complete interiors only to have HB come out with both with complete interiors including the engines shortly after I completed them. :sad:

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Illinois: Hive of Scum and Villany
Posted by Sprue-ce Goose on Sunday, January 26, 2014 1:16 PM

Don Stauffer

One of the main things I have learned is that someone will come out with a fantastic new kit of a subject I like just after I have bought a competitor's so-so kit :-(

Hmm...that always happens to me when I scratch build a model of something that is unavailable as a kit.
Hmm
  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Sunday, January 26, 2014 11:22 AM

One of the main things I have learned is that someone will come out with a fantastic new kit of a subject I like just after I have bought a competitor's so-so kit :-(

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Saturday, January 25, 2014 7:21 PM

If you like thin glue, then should try out Plast I Weld with the Tough'n Flow applicator. The applicator delivers the exact amount of glue with pin point accuracy and actually melts the plastic to make a solid join, many times saving the need to use putty. The stuff is fantastic!  Yes

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    December 2013
Posted by jetmaker on Saturday, January 25, 2014 5:38 PM

mississippivol, I'm just using clip-on desk lamps and a floor lamp with a flexible neck for an overhead. I need to get a better overhead with an arm-style mechanism. I've just been using those fluorescent energy-saving bulbs (the squiggly looking ones). I use an Optivisor, and it has the LED attachment, but it doesn't put out much light at all, so I don't use it.

Sprue-ce Goose, thanks for the additions! Yeah, one thing I love about where I work now is that I finally don't have to wear steel-toes

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Illinois: Hive of Scum and Villany
Posted by Sprue-ce Goose on Saturday, January 25, 2014 5:18 PM

jetmaker

1. ...... but after working with metals, from iron to titanium, for so long, I developed habits, mostly in proper tool selection, that didn't transfer so well. I'm a "take off as little material as possible" kind of guy, 

2. Thin glue is excellent. This is very new to me because when I was a kid, all we had was the gel-like stuff in the tube.

3. Good lighting is everything! 

4. My modeling philosophy. ............. I hope to keep an open mind, and seek every opportunity to learn from fellow modelers.

I haven't even gotten to the painting part of it yet. I can't wait!

jetmaker
My build philosophy has also changed since my early days. In response to your numbered list I would like to add my views: 
1. I certainly can't argue with your philosophy in metalworking; less heat and wear is better for the tooling, machines and parts finish.
Thankfully,  plastic models don't require expensive carbide tooling or even tools using throwaway indexable bits.....and I don't need to wear steel toed shoes while working on a model. 
.
2. I found one good thing about the old tube glue I used to use : I discovered can usually disassemble my 30 and 40 year old models because the glue no longer bonds the plastic.
Bad news: it also destroyed the surface finish due to squeeze outs.Bang Head
Liquid glue is better, but requires a stand and closing the bottle during use as I have been prone to knocking over the bottle while reaching for a part.
.
3. Good lighting: definitely !  More Lumens in the work area helps my depth of field and decreases my need for optical help. Especially handy when trying to read kit instructions...
I have a Harbor Freight Mini-Mill awaiting upgrades this year which will include a lighting upgrade from incandescent to LED.Big Smile 
4. Doesn't matter if working with metal, wood, styrene  or resin, being able to interact with other experienced builders  such as in the FSM forum shortens the learning curve considerably !
I'm always learning something new here. Big Smile
  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: State of Mississippi. State motto: Virtute et armis (By valor and arms)
Posted by mississippivol on Saturday, January 25, 2014 5:16 PM

Dittos on the Tamiya extra thin; I'm not a big fan of their tools/supplies, but that stuff is really good. I just wish it didn't smell so much. That's an interesting idea on the lighting, are you using incandescent only or a mix of types? I have a small Ottlite and a floor lamp with a sixty watt bulb in it that does ok for me.

Glenn

  • Member since
    December 2013
Things I've learned so far
Posted by jetmaker on Saturday, January 25, 2014 4:37 PM

Just wanted to post some of the modeling things I've learned in the very short time I've been at it:

1. Plastic is much softer than metal. I know, "duh!", but after working with metals, from iron to titanium, for so long, I developed habits, mostly in proper tool selection, that didn't transfer so well. I'm a "take off as little material as possible" kind of guy, so immediately reaching for a file to remove excess plastic didn't fit my style there. I now trim with a knife, then go for a medium grade of sandpaper and quickly finish with finer grits. I've discovered this results in much less work, and a better finished surface

2. Thin glue is excellent. This is very new to me because when I was a kid, all we had was the gel-like stuff in the tube. I have some of that, and I would use it for large, critical areas - and would give a little extra time to dry - but I really enjoy the utility of liquid cement. I have a bottle of thin cement with a long metal applicator that is extremely handy. I squeeze a little of it onto the part and use a wooden toothpick to spread it out evenly. And even more so, I picked up a bottle of Tamiya Extra Thin, and began using that for small parts, and I absolutely love it!

3. Good lighting is everything! At least as important as proper magnification or eye focus, direct overhead lighting takes great strain off of the eye, which allows for a much more effortless eye-hand work momentum, and better work angle selection. I try to use light from three different angles with the most powerful coming from directly overhead to eliminate shadow-cast from the sides.

4. My modeling philosophy. I've had a forced hiatus from building for the last two weeks due to coming down with a very nasty flu bug that's going around. In that time I thought a lot about my approach to modeling, what I want to do, and where I want to go with it. I basically only came to a few conclusions. One is that I have two types of models in mind that I would probably do: historic and generic. An example of the former would be "Pappy" Boyington's F4U-1A Corsair, and the latter an M4 Sherman from the WWII era. Efforts to be historically accurate would be much more critical with the former than the latter. That leads into not obsessing over getting every color exactly matched, and every single rivet in place. Effort will be made to be as accurate as possible, but things also come to a point where, at least in my mind, it's "good enough". Also, I will prioritize detailing by visibility. That means, if it's a place that will seldom be seen, if at all, then I will not mess with it. I will not do interior areas if the hull will be buttoned up, or landing gear bays if they will be closed, nor will I waste time on the bottom of tank tracks, etc. Most importantly, my philosophy toward modeling may change as I grow and learn in the hobby. I hope to keep an open mind, and seek every opportunity to learn from fellow modelers.

That's pretty much it. I'm just now starting to feel better from being sick, and I'm looking forward to getting back to it! I haven't even gotten to the painting part of it yet. I can't wait!

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