Attaching Clear Parts

Good Question.

It depends on what part. I use Tamiya Cement only when gluing a canopy onto an airframe. For gunsights, wing lights, etc, I use Micro Kristal Clear. It dries clear and does affect the clear part. I have found out the hard way that using CA is a generally no no around clear parts, since it fogs it very easily.

Plastic cement only works on plastic. I can fog or craze clear parts. If the window pane is not right along the join of the clear part, you can get away with using plastic cement, such as on a windscreen or canopy for most modern jets. Otherwise for clear parts, you can use white glue, or special clear parts cement such as Micro crystal clear, or Gator Glue, or Testor's clear parts cement.(these are all esentially white glue). Superglue may work. Some super glues are non fogging. Resin and photo etch metal parts need either superglue or white glue. Some small parts, such as pe instrument panels or clear acetate sheets can be glued together with Future, or any other clear gloss.

I strictly use Testors Clear Parts Cement. It dries crystal clear and provides excellent bond. Why risk ruining a part?

Tamiya Extra Thin does not craze clear parts. I used to be very skeptical of using any type of plastic welder on clear parts, but I have been for a bit now and it isn't a problem on one unpainted surface to another...like a windscreen to the forward fuselage.

I wouldn't use it on small parts like gun-sights etc....for that some white glue works really well. Like others hav said....DON'T use CA.

As for using Tamiya on painted parts....I've seen it done...and I've tried it...you can...if you're careful...but I generally recommend avoiding it at all costs. just scrape the paint away from the surfaces to be mated...it's much easier and avoid accidents.