Testors clear parts cement

If you want to glue clear parts here is my process.

First I dip it in Future Floor Wax.  That will give it a very clear look through the glass.

To attached it to the model, you can use Elmer's white glue, as it will dry clear.  But the bond is not that strong for further sanding to be flush so make sure that is done before glueing.

I have read that if you do dip the clear parts in Future, you can use Cyanoacrylate Glue (Bob Smiths Industries - Gold) and that will not fog up the clear parts.  (have not used that, so I cannot confirm that, but maybe someone else can).

However if the area in question is a window for a plane, you can use Micro Kristal Klear.  I use this instead of Elmer's as when it drys it drys much clearer then Elmer's and looks more like a window on planes.

pcj240ross

Hello all. I'm new to this forum and modeling in general. I bough the Testors product and it comes out like a thick foam. Not really sticky at all. Is this correct? The cement is hardly viscous.

Thanks

No,that doesn't sound right.It should be similar to Ellmers Glue.It doesnt have great adhesion initially but it dries clear.

I have found the same thing with the Testors. It actually works better for making small windows, but not as well for a glue. I think I will go to a mix- using Micro Scale's stuff for the gluing, keeping the Testors for window making.

Thanks all. I'm trying to paint my Grandfather's P-47D before he passes away and I wish to do the best job I can. I then am taking on an his brother's RF-86F-30. All advise is welcome, thank you.

I have used Micro Scale's stuff, mentioned above, Testors Clear parts glue, and Gator Glue for gluing on canopies/clear parts. All have worked well and work very much the same. They are all "low tack" while the glue is drying, but the Testors stuff seems a tad bit stronger once it has fully dried and cured. Save that part of your build for last and do not rush thru any of that process.

While the Testors adheres well for things like canopies, do not rely on it for gluing the windows inside the fuselage, like bombers and airliners. It is a disaster if one of these pops loose inside the fuselage after it is glued together.  The ONLY thing I trust to glue those windows in is epoxy (CA can fog windows).

Sounds like the testors glue is bad. I use it all the time and it's thick and guy. It provides an excellent strong bond and it dries crystal clear.

I have used Aleene's but found it to have little strength.  I just pulled off two windows on which I used Aleene's,  with Tamiya masking tape, so I am returning to using watch crystal cement, which you can purchase from Micro-Mark.  It takes a day or two to cure, but seems to hang on quite well.

Try "Formula 560 Canopy Glue". Great stuff. Nothing I've used it on has fallen off and I've been using it about a year.

Items I used the Testors on fell off within a few days.

The trade name for that watch crystal cement is "G-S Hypo Cement."  It comes in  a little tube with a wonderful hypodermic needle- like applicator, and a cap with a tiny wire that goes into the needle to keep it from clogging when stored.  I have used it for many years.  The tube will last forever, as the wire insert keeps it from drying up.  The bore in the needle is so tiny, I need a magnifying glass to insert the wire / cap.  I have never had a canopy or anything fall off when held on by this stuff.  I have not, however, tried making windows with it.

I have used Super Glue or what ever name you name brand CA you use to glue windshield glass on my Jeep models after dipping the clear parts in Future with no fogging issues.

Aircraft canopies because some are one piece that may create issues with the CA vapors caught inside.

Lightly scuffing the spots where glue will be used helps with adhesion when using glues other than plastic cements. There are non-fuming CA adhesives available but they do tend to run a bit on the expensive side. The Pacer Formula 560 will work well, just use it sparingly.