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Resin user first timer

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  • Member since
    September 2012
  • From: Indianapolis
Posted by Squatch88 on Saturday, March 15, 2014 12:26 PM

I got a Zona saw blade, the smallest one I think, and a pin vise, the gattling gun needs to have holes, not just dimples, so that will be a big help as well.

  • Member since
    June 2004
  • From: 29° 58' N 95° 21' W
Posted by seasick on Friday, March 14, 2014 12:15 AM

The exacto saw blade for their knives works great. Get one that has fine teeth and go slow cutting things off.

Chasing the ultimate build.

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Wednesday, March 12, 2014 2:23 AM
Darn enter button.
... Or plexi. Wet the paper and sand in circular motion. Change directions and position of the part for even sanding. Part will soon separate from water.
Wet sanding is a good method for minimizing dust
  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Wednesday, March 12, 2014 2:08 AM
To echo on Don's response, a razor saw by Zona or Xacto or other similar is a handy tool to have in any modelers toolbox. In the scheme of things they are not all that expensive and will provide years of use.

If the parts are cast on a flat water of resin the parts can easily be removed by sanding. Tape a piece of wet-or-dry sandpaper (hardware store item) to a sheet of glass or
  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by RobGroot4 on Tuesday, March 11, 2014 7:12 PM

2 quick things to add to what has been said above.

1.  practice drybrushing, it's probably one of the best ways to get the most out of that highly detailed cockpit.

2.  Test fit the cockpit before you paint.  Every once in a while, resin will be too tall or something.  After cutting, just put the tub in the fuselage and tape it shut, then hold the after portion of the cockpit in place and make sure the seat isn't contacting or otherwise interfering with how the canopy seats.

Groot

"Firing flares while dumping fuel may ruin your day" SH-60B NATOPS

  • Member since
    September 2012
  • From: Indianapolis
Posted by Squatch88 on Tuesday, March 11, 2014 3:39 PM

Great. thanks all! The resin kit was only $4, so if it turns into a disaster, which I dont think it will, its not a massive loss. My main concern now is painting all the details, I know a lot of you have worked with resin cockpits before, but I'm still laughing at the detail, I mean even the throttle lever is awesome. I've been reading a lot of tips on cokcpit detailing and painting, so hopefully it'll be good!

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Tuesday, March 11, 2014 9:14 AM

I use a  razor saw, like a Zona or similar, to cut away the pour sprue block.  For smaller areas I use one of those sharp nippers.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Massachusetts
Posted by ajlafleche on Tuesday, March 11, 2014 8:17 AM

Resin dust is fine and inert. It is not carcinogenic or toxic in any other way. If dust, sawdust, household dust, etc,, bothers you, a dust mast is really all you need.  In fact, given the make up of house dust, is more likely to be an allergen. There's a small possibility of allergic reaction for some small number of people. However, being fine it is messy. I use a razor saw for large blocks and either wire cutters or a #1 blade. Simple fine sand paper will clean up any left over lines.

Given you're using parts for a cockpit, I'd avoid the torque of a Dremel and use hand powered tools to cut off the pour plugs.

Some parts and some resins can be very brittle so use caution when cutting thin pieces.

You'll need to use some form of super glue, i.e., Zap-A-Gap, to assemble and attach these parts to your kit.

As far as painting, use high quality brushes and good paint products. If you're buying brushes by the dozen, you're wasting your money. Make sure your paint is formulated to be brush friendly. Know that Tamiya paint is not (and hasn't been for 25 years) brush friendly.

Remember, if the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: California
Posted by SprueOne on Monday, March 10, 2014 10:55 PM

The above advice will separate the parts from the pour block. Do you understand what they are talking about? 

Before painting, clean the parts by agitating in Isopropyl or Denatured alcohol. This removes the mold release agents used to cast the parts

 

Anyone with a good car don't need to be justified - Hazel Motes

 

Iron Rails 2015 by Wayne Cassell Weekend Madness sprueone

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Monday, March 10, 2014 7:46 PM

For large pieces I will use a small dremel tool,but as was said,lots of dust.If I could I do it outside

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Monday, March 10, 2014 7:10 PM

Remove the excess resin is tricky as it is brittle. If its a thin piece along the edge, that I normally cut close with my sprue cutters and then sand away the excess. If there's a large thick block of excess resin on the back, it will need sanding. But be warned, the dust from resin is not pleasant stuff, you should really use some form of protection such as a respirator.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    September 2012
  • From: Indianapolis
Resin user first timer
Posted by Squatch88 on Monday, March 10, 2014 7:07 PM

I just received my first resin parts, they are for a 1/48 A-10 cockpit. Looking at them and am baffled at how detailed they are! Simply fantastic! First off, I need some tips to make these look as good as they can. I dont have any fancy tools to remove the chunk of resin they come on, is there a good method to remove them and not butcher them? And lastly, any tips on how to make the great looking seatbelts great...painting wise I always have trouble with them. The kit I got is a true details kit for monogram kits.

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