SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

Paint like a pro with cans??

2358 views
15 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    July 2011
Paint like a pro with cans??
Posted by Cattech on Sunday, March 16, 2014 7:38 AM
I'm getting ready to start painting the inside of my B-24, and wanna do a great job. Are great paint jobs achievable with a can, or air brushin a must when painting. And the plane that my grand father flew in was aluminum looking, is that when alclad paint job comes in?? Don't really have the funds to go buy a air brush kit right now. Any help would be much appreciated.
  • Member since
    February 2011
  • From: St louis
Posted by Raualduke on Sunday, March 16, 2014 8:52 AM

On large areas,if I can find the color I need in a can,I go that route every time. I hate cleaning air brushes

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: NW Washington
Posted by dirkpitt77 on Sunday, March 16, 2014 9:18 AM

I did a natural metal finish on a P-51 not too long ago, and that was with Model Master's plain 'ol silver in a spray can. I hadn't used a spray can in probably ten years, but I was impressed with the way it came out. I think it can be done as long as you're careful.

    "Some say the alien didn't die in the crash.  It survived and drank whiskey and played poker with the locals 'til the Texas Rangers caught wind of it and shot it dead."

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Sunday, March 16, 2014 11:35 AM

Many car modelers use spray cans of lacquer touch-up paint, such as Dupli-color.  Hobby spray paint is a bit harder to use.  Flat colors such as camoulflage schemes are easier to do than gloss.  A flat aluminum would be a lot easier than a gloss aluminum (any gloss paint other than auto lacquers are hard to do with spray cans) but there are few sources of a good flat aluminum in spray cans.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Sunday, March 16, 2014 12:02 PM

I've had very good results using spray cans on larger exterior surfaces.  Tamiya synthetic lacquer works especially nice.  Main thing is to use several very light coats., letting each coat dry thoroughly

before proceeding.  I then use an airbrush to add shading and weathering effects.  Again, less is more- spray lightly and repeat using maybe a slightly different color, then  quit before it gets too heavy or dark.

This technique works for any kind of paint.

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Sunday, March 16, 2014 12:47 PM

The problem with painting areas like cockpits with spray cans is that you have no control of the amount of paint being atomized and if not carefully applied can partially cover up delicate shallow details. With an DA air brush, you have absolute control of the process. Spray cans are generally ok on larger areas but don't deliver the same quality finish that an AB gives.

If you are on a tight buget, Harbor Freight has a real good priced sets that will not break the bank:

www.harborfreight.com/.../result

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Sunday, March 16, 2014 2:16 PM

You are correct, sir!  I always use an airbrush at low pressure and low flow for cockpits and other small details, inside and out.  I only use the cans for things like the wings and fuselage, then later go at them with an airbrush to bring out details, etc.

Also, I paint and weather the cockpit as I am building it.  It's darn near impossible to get a decent effect after it's fully assembled.

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by RobGroot4 on Sunday, March 16, 2014 4:15 PM

If you are set on using cans, it is possible to find the testor's model master metalizer aluminum and metalizer sealer in spray cans.  The metalizers are ok, I am more a fan of the buffing metalizers but you have to be careful with them.  The non-buffing ones are labelled, all others are to be buffed about 10 minutes after spraying and then sealed right away.  If you don't seal it, you will get sticky metallic colored paint on your hands every time you touch it.  I believe it would be good for a large area.  Personally I prefer to use bare metal foil for NMF aluminum finishes, but that's probably more of a statement about my painting (in)abilities!

Groot

"Firing flares while dumping fuel may ruin your day" SH-60B NATOPS

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Monday, March 17, 2014 8:47 AM

I was building a car for the Fisher body contest when I started college, and lived in a dorm. I couldn't afford an airbrush, and couldn't use spray cans. I made a simple airbrush using an old paint bottle and K&S brass tubing. I attached a long length of model airplane fuel line tubing to it and used my breath for powering it. It worked fine. I got 70 coats of model airplane dope on that thing- a really impressive finish since the car was carved with balsa instead of hardwood that the Fisher guidelines recommended.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    January 2014
Posted by Silver on Monday, March 17, 2014 12:16 PM
I do It all the time.Its ok and covers large areas well.Not to change the subject much but I won Best Aircraft by brush painting.
  • Member since
    November 2006
Posted by Bearcat57 on Monday, March 17, 2014 4:39 PM
Don, are you SERIOUS???.....geez, you could've been the professor on Gilligan's Island! :) :) :)
that's GREAT

(I had to double check the date to make sure it wasn't April 1st) :)
  • Member since
    February 2011
  • From: St louis
Posted by Raualduke on Tuesday, March 18, 2014 7:04 AM

That's nothing,my air brush is powered by a bamboo bicycle ridden by a chimpanzee

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: NYC, USA
Posted by waikong on Tuesday, March 25, 2014 11:10 AM

We want to see pictures of that Don!

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Utereg
Posted by Borg R3-MC0 on Wednesday, March 26, 2014 8:25 AM

My AB setup is currently in storage, so I am using rattle cans (mostly Duplicolor). The result can be quite good. But you have to change certain techniques. For instance, pre shading is impossible with rattle cans so I use post shading with pastels. Likewise I do mottelring with pastels.

Make sure you mist on light coats and properly mask.

Here are some examples for rattle can builds:

 

 

 

 

 

  

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, March 26, 2014 9:27 AM

waikong

We want to see pictures of that Don!

That thing is long gone.  That was in 1956-57.  Didn't survive my first move from college (built the model, and did the painting in my dorm room).  Eventually lost the model, too. I think it went up in a fire in my in-laws attic. It was a car for the old Fisher Body Contest.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    November 2006
Posted by Bearcat57 on Wednesday, March 26, 2014 12:36 PM
Nice work, Borg. I would not have guessed those to be rattle can finishes! - and those Pan Am SSTs sure take me back quite a ways....I did that kit when I was a kid (results weren't quite as nice as yours however)
JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.