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New Model Builder

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  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Florida-West Central
Posted by Eagle90 on Wednesday, May 14, 2014 5:46 AM

Welcome to the forums and I look forward to seeing some choppers!

Eagle90

 

fox
  • Member since
    January 2007
  • From: Narvon, Pa.
Posted by fox on Tuesday, May 13, 2014 8:52 PM

Welcome to the Forums! Glad to have you aboard!

Jim Captain

 Main WIP: 

   On the Bench: Artesania Latina  (aka) Artists in the Latrine 1/75 Bluenose II

I keep hitting "escape", but I'm still here.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Tuesday, May 13, 2014 8:27 PM

The Monogram Cobra has the later style IR suppression shield for the exhaust. Not the earlier sugar scoop/toilet bowl type. The only kit in 1/48 that has that is the old Fujimi Cobra kit. It is OOP, but still easily found online. It was also released in the Testors yellow box during the late 80s & early 90s. I built one a couple years back in that set up as an IDF TOW Cobra in Lebanon, circa 1982. It's on here in the Helicopter Forum.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    March 2009
  • From: Yorkville, IL
Posted by wolfhammer1 on Tuesday, May 13, 2014 7:22 PM

Welcome to the world of modeling.  Which helicopter are you starting?  Sounds like something from Viet Nam, and I know that the Monogram Cobra has a toilet seat included in the 1/48 scale kit.  One approach would be to scavenge the part from a cheap model or duplicate it with resin, if you wanted to go that way.  As far as the cable cutters, some kits come with them and some don't, but you could make them out of sheet plastic.  Hope that helps and good luck

  • Member since
    May 2014
Posted by Huey638 on Tuesday, May 13, 2014 6:43 PM

Thanks all great answers!!

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Green Bay, WI USA
Posted by echolmberg on Monday, May 12, 2014 11:43 AM

Welcome to the forum, Huey!

Like Don stated, there are about as many methods of seam-filling as there are people in the world.  LOL!  As Tojo said, if you can get your hands on some Mr. Surfacer 500, that's some pretty good stuff.  it's great for smaller seams.  In lieu of that, I like to use plain old White Out correction fluid.  They're both roughly the same consistency and both are sandable and dry quickly.

For larger seams, I like to use Tamiya white putty.  It's sort of like applying white toothpaste.

Some people use thick or "gap filling" super glue.  I've used this a time or two but I think I like putties the best.  The super glue will sand and it'll definitely fill the seams but it's been my experience that I've got to start sanding and working with it within about 15 minutes of applying it.  If I wait longer than that, the super glue will cure harder than the surrounding plastic.  You'll end up sanding away more of the surrounding plastic than you will the rock-hard super glue.  Again, it works wonderfully if you stay on top of it.  I tend to apply putties and then walk away and forget about it for the night.  I can't do that with super glue.

I hope this helps and, once again, welcome to the forum!

Eric

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Monday, May 12, 2014 8:57 AM

There is no single way to do it.  Different folks have found different techniques and products.  Personally I use auto body "glazing putty" (formerly known as "spot putty"), which comes in a big tube- a lifetime supply.  As long as you are diligent about putting cap back on immediately it is a bargain in the cost per model sense.  But some folks use CA glue, some use thick paint, almost every method under the sun.

There is a forum in  the Tools, Techniques and References section - the Techniques forum, where this is a frequent thread, and that is a forum (in fact, the whole group of those forums) is/are excellent resources.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Monday, May 12, 2014 8:06 AM

I use something called Mr Surfacer 500,it is a thick liquid,I apply sparingly over the seam.It is water soluble,so I smooth it out with a Q-tip and alchohol once it dries.

Everyone has a technique and method,read up and see what sounds good to you.

 

If you don't get too many responses on this,try the techniques forum for your seam question,and perhaps the helicopter section for your other question.Placement in the correct forums attracts the right eyes and comments.

  • Member since
    May 2014
New Model Builder
Posted by Huey638 on Sunday, May 11, 2014 11:05 AM

I am a beginner helicopter model builder and have several questions:

When you glue to parts together and you want it to appear to be a solid piece e.g. the two main fuselage halves; how to you fill the seam?  Is there an epoxy as such that can be applied then sanded?

Has anyone found a kit with an IR Suppressor or commonly called a “Toilet Seat” for a 1:48 kit?  It fits over the exhaust pipe and directs the engine exhaust heat into the Main Rotor blades for disbursement.

Lastly, has any figured a solution for the WSP (Wire Strike Protection) system?

Tags: UH-1
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