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Use of Rub 'n Buff - Can anyone expand on this?

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  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Edmonton, Alberta, CANADA
Use of Rub 'n Buff - Can anyone expand on this?
Posted by rookie 104 on Saturday, November 1, 2014 4:05 PM

I read the article in the Dec issue of FSM and was very impressed with the Canadian CF-104 article. I have never heard of Rub 'n Buff before and was impressed with the results Paul Poisseroux of France got with his 104 model.

I have a few questions however:

1. Has anyone else used Rub 'n Buff and what was your results?

2. Is it popular? I never heard of it before.

3. Can you apply it over Tamiya Fine Light Grey primer and get the results Paul got with a flat black primer?

4. Is this the sequence of use? Primer - Rub 'n Buff - Clear Gloss - Decals - clear coat?

5. Are there any "must know" procedures or secrets in using this?

6. Does it take long to dry?

7. How can you remove it?

Thanks for any info.

Regards - Dan

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Edmonton, Alberta, CANADA
Posted by rookie 104 on Saturday, November 1, 2014 10:48 PM

Sorry folks - I reread some things and realize this should have gone in the painting section - but I don't know how to delete it.

Dan

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by KnightTemplar5150 on Sunday, November 2, 2014 3:55 PM

I'm not sure how much this will help, Dan, because the last time I used Rub 'N Buff, the experiment was less than satisfactory. I was building a Monogram B-25J and figured that I would at least try the stuff. In all fairness to the manufacturer, I purchased my Rub 'N Buff from a craft store which was closing shop and it was discounted to less than a dollar, so there is no telling if I purchased some really old stock which had gone bad or what...this would have been right around 2000?

Anyhow, the stuff came out of the tube about the consistency of toothpaste, so I place a very small dollop onto an old t-shirt and began to apply the wax onto sprues from the kit. It looked fine, so I put it away and spent a bit of time polishing the bare plastic of the completed model so that the metallic paste would not exaggerate any flaws I may have left in my work. To vary the appearance of the control surfaces, I masked them off and airbrushed some Tamiya primer over the fabric areas which would have been doped. I applied the Rub 'N Buff to the model and that's where things went bad in a hurry.

It was a pain in the rear to spread it all evenly on the model. Even wearing latex gloves, I managed to leave fingerprints wherever I handled it. In buffing it, the wax would lift, leaving swirls and marks everywhere. It took the better part of several hours to get everything to the point where I was convinced that it was just "good enough" for the time being and I set it aside to dry and cure, even though it was about the same effect as using a silver Sharpie marker on the plastic. After a week, once I had my patience back in order enough to look at the model again, I went to pick it up and left fingerprints all over the bloody thing. The wax just never seemed to cure. In fact, it seemed to transfer everywhere without any real effort - the clear parts, the work table, my clothes, everywhere...if you're looking to remove it, I can tell you that 98% isopropyl works fairly well, but requires multiple applications.

I tried to place a decal just as an experiment, so I brushed a little Future on the wing. That created a huge mess and caused the silver finish to turn a sad grey color. The control surfaces that were primed for a bit of variation were sort of a brighter grey, but the wax never seemed to want to adhere to the primer very well. In hindsight, spraying it black would have kicked the metal effect up quite a bit, but the grey primer just seemed to rob it of a real metal effect. Utter disaster, so I purchased a new kit and this one was given to the neighbor's kids for demolition by fireworks. While the plane burned, I watched the Rub 'N Buff literally melt and pool like a silver crayon. I'm not entirely convinced it ever really set up.

For me, it just wasn't a pleasant experience and I have never touched the stuff again. My heartfelt advice to you is to try it out on a very inexpensive model before you take it to a project you've invested a lot of cash and effort into.

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Edmonton, Alberta, CANADA
Posted by rookie 104 on Sunday, November 2, 2014 7:37 PM

Knight Templar - thanks for taking the time to pass on this valuable information to me. It helps a lot and is appreciated.

Rookie 104 - Dan

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Monday, November 3, 2014 8:18 AM

I have used R&B in the past, but find limited application.  You cannot paint most paints over it, so you must do it like Alclad, but it is even less tolerant than the latter.  Also, my decals sometimes did not adhere all that well.  However, for an all-metal finish with little trim, and small decals, it does work.  It is just that I really like Alclad, so the latter is now my go-to for NMF.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    November 2014
Posted by BLACKSMITHN on Monday, November 3, 2014 12:23 PM

Modeling construction equipment, I've used it in limited areas-- like bulldozer or shovel blades-- and have had good results. I usually apply it over cheap gray automobile primer (Pep Boys 2 for $5 special all the way!). The key for me seems to be applying it with a soft cloth (which makes it difficult to apply in hard to reach areas) and allowing at least 24 hours for the stuff to dry before buffing it. The instructions say you can thin it and brush it on, but I have only tried that once and the results were less than stellar.

  • Member since
    February 2007
Posted by mitsdude on Tuesday, November 4, 2014 12:28 AM

I used it on my Mobieus Lost In Space "in the freezing tubes" figures. Very pleased with the results.

Admittedly these will not have decals or paint on them and will be in an enclosed environment protected from dust.

I see it mainly useful for "accents" not an entire kit.

BTW, Mig has come out with a product very similar to Rub n buff. They may have added something to it that makes it more useful. It just came out and I haven't seen any reviews on it.

 

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: 37deg 40.13' N 95deg 29.10'W
Posted by scottrc on Tuesday, November 4, 2014 9:42 AM

I use it a lot to patina and simulate wood  effects on ship models and it must be used as a wash with pine turpentine.  Because its an oil, decals or enamels will not adhere to it.  It takes a while to dry and may require a topcoat of oil painting sealer if put on heavy.  The sealer will also work if laying over  decals or other mediums of paint.  

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Illinois: Hive of Scum and Villany
Posted by Sprue-ce Goose on Sunday, November 9, 2014 6:52 PM

KNIGHTTEMPLAR51

I do not think your experience was due to old stock.

I tried using the product in the early 1970s after reading an article in Scale Modeler magazine.

The product never did dry on the AURORA B-36 model I applied it to so I never used it again for plastic models.

  • Member since
    November 2014
Posted by BLACKSMITHN on Monday, November 10, 2014 9:20 AM

As an experiment, I painted the chrome/stainless steel portions of a Matchbox pumper truck with Krylon Premium Sterling Silver paint and used Rub 'n Buff applied with a foam make-up applicator on those same portions of a second model. The results are approximately the same, imo. However, spraying the Krylon was a LOT easier and less time consuming than applying the Rub 'n Buff, waiting for it to dry and then buffing it up (where I could reach it to buff-- there are a lot of nooks and crannies where I just couldn't get to it effectively).

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Green Bay, WI USA
Posted by echolmberg on Monday, November 10, 2014 10:50 AM

I'd like to add my voice to this as well especially seeing as how I had the same results as most everyone here.  I applied it to my 1/72 Tamiya P-51D and it just like a thick waxy paste.  I applied it using an old cotton T-shirt and I could never get it to look good.  It was thick and I couldn't get it to lay flat and look like metal.  It looked like I colored it with a silver candle or crayon and I was pressing really hard with it.

I'll stick with my Floquil and Model Master line of silvers and S-n-J metal powders.

Eric

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Neenah, WI
Posted by HawkeyeHobbies on Wednesday, November 12, 2014 7:12 PM

RnB is a lot like shoe polish...wax and a pigment. The more you work it the shinier it gets. You need to build up a couple good layers to get the best results. Remember it has wax in it and it may not react well to some paints or sealers.

Gerald "Hawkeye" Voigt

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/

 

 

"Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench."

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Monday, November 17, 2014 4:22 PM

IMO, why not just go with Alclad? I have gotten excellent results using Alclad over any other product. The old Floquil  Silver enamels like Platinum Mist, Old Silver and Bright Silver are also very good,unfortunately they have been discontinued.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Tuesday, November 18, 2014 9:04 AM

I am also a big fan of Alclad.  You can make fine bare metal finishes with it.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    January 2014
Posted by Silver on Tuesday, December 2, 2014 6:03 PM
Try tamiya Bare metal finish spray and Silverleafe along w/Testors Metalizers for panels.
  • Member since
    January 2014
Posted by Silver on Tuesday, December 2, 2014 6:05 PM
Sealing w/Alclad Kristal Coat or testors clear products.
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