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Never did a resin kit - any tips or advice?

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Never did a resin kit - any tips or advice?
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, December 26, 2002 10:58 PM
I recently became the proud owner of a rather large resin kit. It's rather impressive, yet daunting when looking at the pieces and all. I do mostly plastic/metal miniatures (25mm) - other than those I have only done a handful of plastic model kits through the years. I have never attempted a resin kit before. I have no idea where to start really. I don't even know if I should - I feel I'm not worthy of such a magnificent kit. Blush [:I]

But it's in my possession now and I feel I must accept the challenge and do this - otherwise my wife (who actually likes to dabble a bit in modeling/painting) might beat me to it. Blush [:I]

So, I have come here to ask for help from all of you. I hope to learn and gain the confidence to attempt such a kit. Hopefully others may also benefit from this discussion. Shy [8)]

For someone who has never done a resin kit before, what important things do I need to know?

I know I have to wash it with a mild detergent and water to remove the stuff that makes it easier to separate the resin pieces from the mold. Also that if I need to sand or grind down the material to wear a mask.

But what about painting? Does it matter what kind of paints? Primer? Tools, sanding (what grade of sand paper), grind (if necessary)? Is resin pretty sturdy or does it shatter easily? What about filling in gaps? Any information would be greatly appreciated!!
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: USA
Posted by jcarlberg on Friday, December 27, 2002 9:35 AM
Resins vary in hardness, brittleness and flexibility. Some of it chips and shatters if you try to use a knife, so saws are useful to separate mold stubs. You can use the Dremel type tools, but go slow and watch for dust. For glue, super glue or epoxy work. I would consider using epoxy where alignment is tricky, since it sets slower. Also, you may find that load bearing parts like wing and landing gear struts may bend over time, so many modelers replace them with metal or injection molded parts, or reinforce them. Wings and gun barrels may droop too and need reinforcement, maybe trenching and gluing wire or rod into them. If the surface is prepared and primed, any model paint should work fine. Gaps can be filled with super glue and accelerator or other fillers should work. Milliput would work well here, too. A full resin kit is heavy, and needs special handling to avoid dropping it.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, December 27, 2002 11:46 AM
I never would have thought about pieces bending. I guess it's kind of deceiving since the pieces are so heavy and appear to be solid. That's good to know.

Thank you for the advice!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 3, 2003 7:46 AM
great topic, I'm about to do my first resin kit as well, a 1/8 scale figure and I'm not sure where to start, what supplies should I have and what kind of paint should I buy? thanks...
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: United Kingdom / Belgium
Posted by djmodels1999 on Monday, February 3, 2003 8:04 AM
Any paint will be fine PROVIDED you use a primer first! On resin kits, I use an automotive acrylic primer (flat white usually) in can, but you could also brush or airbrush any acrylics or enamels (thinned down white enamel works fine). However, think of what other paints will go next as acrylics, enamel and cellulose paints are not compatible and can react with each other to give you a crackled paint effect... My acrylic primer will take anything (so far!), but you might need to test with what you have available.

As for a starting point, clean all parts with soapy water and clean them up of any feeding pegs, mold lines and the like. Be aware that resin dust is highly dangerous for your lungs...
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: USA
Posted by jcarlberg on Monday, February 3, 2003 3:06 PM
I have painted many resin detail items without priming them, and if they were scrupulously clean I've had no trouble. I do think that the issue of primer compatibility is very important, as is overcoat compatibility. Some paints are very fussy about primers and clearcoats.
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