Glue (Part whatever)

I use many different glues on each model, depending on which best suits the joint at hand.  For instance, I use Tamiya thin solvent for binding plastic to plastic, and CA for sticking metal PE parts to plastic, etc.

Glues I use:

Tube glue - used on rare occasions

Tamiya liquid glue

CA

Elmer's glue (for canopies)

Super glue (for PE)

No one so far has mentioned Faller Expert cement.  The "needle" applicator helps a lot.  I use that quite a bit and it works really well for me.

My glue of choice is Tamiya Extra Thin,I also use a CA type glue and a white glue for canopies.

Three really handy Glues that often get left out of the lists are the Watch Crystal cement for attaching canopies, (available as GS Hypo Cement), and Gator's Grip water based superglue, again for attaching canopies and underwing stores.

Gator's Grip is no relation to any of the Gator/Gorilla Glues available at the home improvement stores or Wal Mart, it is a designed for models water based glue, designed and sold by a modeler.

Aleene's Tacky Glues are also very useful to have around. I used to buy them direct from the Aleene's Dress shop in Wisconsin Rapids, but, since moving to Tennessee, I just buy those at Wal Mart now. There are many more choices than just the old "brown bottle" glue from Aleene's.

Rex

Gator's site  www.gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder1.html

GS Hypo at Starfighter's  www.starfighter-decals.com/gs-hypo-cement.html

Aleene's home site   www.ilovetocreate.com/Tacky

Thank you everyone for your input.  As I said in my OP, it comes down to two factors:

a)  Personal choice

b)  And the job at hand

Glue?? You mean I'm supposed to use glue?? I've been using tape all these years!!!  

Texgunner

No one so far has mentioned Faller Expert cement.  The "needle" applicator helps a lot.  I use that quite a bit and it works really well for me.

I love that stuff. Unfortunately it's been unavailable here in Australia for many years. These days I primarily use Tamiya cement, both the extra thin and regular liquid cements.

Don't forget hot glue. Good for tacking down wires (for lighting) or reinforcement of an internal part.

DD,

    Ya mean I was supposed to be using tape instead of glue?  Who knew. ;-)

I also use white glue and derivatives for canopies, since a canopy is easy to glue back on if it breaks loose.  However., for windows that fit inside fuselage on transports and bombers I go with epoxies. I have had some problems lately with some epoxies not being as strong as ones I used in past.

I ordinarily use gel CA rather than the thin stuff, for two reasons.  First, I like the slower setting.  I can always apply accelerator if I need a quicker set, and the gel is somewhat gap filling.  I find the thin works best if part surfaces match extremely well.

Don,

    A good question that you elude to in your post.  When should one use capilary action and when should one "paint" the glue on both pieces to be joined?

I mostly use Zap-A-Gap for just about everything, but I build a lot of resin kits. I clearly remember when the whole anti-glue-sniffing movement began and Testors started putting out this citrus-based stuff that wasn't worth a rat's patoot. I was showing a friend a 2001 Orion model I'd built using the stuff when he accidentally dropped it about a foot onto concrete, and it underwent rapid unplanned self-disassembly, as Elon Musk would say. Literally went back to its component parts. I'm glad those days are gone.

Weird-Oh,

    I think I remember that "lovely" glue.  They still produce a non-toxic tube version of their cement.  It's in a blue tube.  I don't know how strong it is, as I've never used it.

    But, yes, I've gotta say that I agree with you there.

CA is cyanoacrylate...or Superglue for the everyday term.  There are many different manufacturers and it comes in super thin, thin, medium, thick and just about any other viscosity that you can imagine.  I'm sure that you've seen it in its various forms and packages.

Cyanoacrylate is what I use for resin kits, but with most of them, the assembly is the easy part, at least with figure kits. The skill comes in with puttying, sanding and painting. I use Aves Apoxie Sculpt for putty, and it's amazing stuff. Thins with water, so I can smooth a puttied joint before it sets to the point that it hardly needs any sanding. I even use the stuff to fix broken items around the house, because it sets up like porcelain.